Author: Bennet Bodenstein

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New vistas for Malbec wines

In this modern world of internationalism, certain countries, because of climate, soil, and/or geography, have become famous for a specific variety of wine. For Germany it’s the Riesling, New Zealand the Sauvignon Blanc, South Africa the Pinotage, Sicily the Nerello Mascalese, Italy the Sangiovese, Spain the Tempranillo, in the United States it’s the Zinfandel — and in Argentina, it’s the Malbec. I saved the Malbec for last because I was privileged to sample some Argentinian Malbecs that were more than good — they were excellent. Malbec was once considered a ho-hum grape variety in France and was never able to compete with the mighty duo, Bordeaux’s Cabernet Sauvignon and Burgundy’s Pinot Noir.

The “new world” opened new vistas for grape varieties. Malbec, when it was planted at the foothills of Argentina’s Andes Mountains, was found to produce not only good wines, but wines that in every way were the equal to the mighty duo of France and California, and at considerably less cost to the consumer.

I again admonish the reader not to judge quality by price, as there are many facets that must be considered when the price of a wine is determined. The prices that I show indicate the producer’s suggested retail price; however, the final price can wander all over the place on the internet, and some incredible buys can be found there. It should be pointed out that the internet prices do not include shipping, which is included in the “off the shelf” price, so the buyer pays for the shipping one way or the other.

Coen Classic 2019 Malbec ($24.99). This wine could be considered an ambassador for Malbec; it is that good while also being that affordable. The grapes used for this wine are the great-great-grandchildren of the vines brought over by the original Spanish colonists. While the grapes had found a new home and thrived, it was the Italian immigrants of the early 1900s who perfected Argentinian wine-making techniques and brought the Malbec to its full potential. The Coen 2019 Classic Malbec had no oak aging, so it is about as “au natural” as a wine can get. This wine has a deep ruby color, a medium body, and a flavor that’s almost explosive, exhibiting summer red fruits, cranberries, pomegranates, and ripe giant raisins. This can be considered a wine for all seasons because it will fit with any food from Spanish to Japanese.

Coen 2019 Reserve Malbec ($44.99). Critically selected grapes in the hands of a dedicated winemaker usually lead to a higher selling price. The question now: Is it all worth it? In the case with this wine — yes, yes, and yes. There is a smoothness about this wine that rivals the best of the best from anywhere in the world. Had I not read the label, I might have believed this wine had received many years of extra aging. The finish of this wine, too, is something special, as it is very long and a revolving display of all the flavors that a great Malbec is famous for cherries and summer berries along with a host of fruit under-flavors. These under-flavors are subtle and constantly intermingling with each other. I will add that I believe that this wine is probably one of the finest Malbecs that I have sampled in a long time.

Graffigna 2019 Malbec ($11.99). This wine is again proof positive that price does not indicate quality. The Graffigna Malbec is more than just an affordable wine; it is the wine that, if you have never experienced a Malbec before, could open the door to a very delightful variety. This wine is 100% Malbec and is alive with the flavors of plum and blackberry, with hints of tobacco and chocolate in the background and in the finish. This is another red wine that can accompany all of the red-meat dishes as well as many of the spicy Italian or Spanish dishes.

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Excellent, affordable reds from Chile

Just in time for the winter holidays, and the colder weather, three very interesting and affordable red wines have arrived on our shores. These wines are from Chile, a nation whose wines are gaining accolades at all of the professional wine tastings while still remaining in the affordable range.

Veramonte 2019 Organic Cabernet Sauvignon ($11.99). This wine, as the king in the play and movie “Anna and the King of Siam” observed, is a puzzlement. For the acknowledged king of the red wines to sell for so low a price, it can’t be real, or the wine must be pure junk. This wine is real and as far away from junk as a wine can get. It is a wine that offers quality usually found in wines that are much more costly. This wine comes from the Casablanca Valley, the Napa Valley of Chile, and its low cost is reflected in the much lower cost of producing the wine than it is here in the United States.

The proof, however, is in the tasting, and what incredible proof it is. The aroma is alive with ripe summer berries, cranberries, and dark raisins, with dark chocolate and spice and vanilla in the background. These carry over to the flavor and then on to the finish, where they last for a very long time. This is the final proof that price alone does not determine quality, and quality need not command a high price.

Ritual Organic Pinot Noir 2017 ($19.99). Here we go again, price versus quality. I am not going to go through another long-winded tirade on price versus quality with this wine too. Needless to say, the proof is there for the tasting. The first thing that should be noticed is that this wine has been well aged. That alone should indicate that it was not quickly made and just as quickly bottled and released to the public. The grapes for this wine come also from the heart of the Casablanca Valley. The cooler climate there lets the grapes develop slowly, allowing the fruit to develop more concentrated flavors. The flavor development on the vine, coupled with the careful selection of the grapes in the field, results in a pinot noir of classical dimensions.

This very nice wine exhibits a broad spectrum of flavors, with cherries, plums, and wild summer berries being the most prominent. There are also many other flavors lying in the background, with oak and an earthy mushroom being the most obvious. As a pinot noir lover, I must say that I enjoyed this wine and would put it up against similar wines selling for many times its price

Primus, The Blend 2018 ($18.99). It appears that the Chilean winemakers have taken a hint from the French, who love to tinker with their cabernet sauvignon by trying all sorts of blends. The Primus blend seems to have hit a home run. The wine is 55% cabernet sauvignon, 20% carmenere (a local red grape), 10% petite verdot, and 5% cabernet franc. While this is similar to many of the French and American blends, it is the carmenere that sets it apart from all the rest.

While it is the cabernet sauvignon whose flavor and aroma dominate, it is the carmenere that adds body and smoothness to the blend without suppressing any of the other partners in this blend. The flavors and aromas of currents, blackberries, and plum with an obvious background of oak and vanilla and a long finish are the hallmarks of this wine. If you are a cab lover or just curious, this is the wine for you.

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Wine lover’s manifesto: The best wine is the wine you like best

I guess you can call this a manifesto, and I start with two statements: (1) There are no longer any bad wines made today, and (2) my motto.

The first statement reflects modern sanitary knowledge and the fact that a bad or even poor wine could ruin a winery’s reputation. In the past, a wine could be ruined by a bad cork rotting, resulting in what is called a corked wine, or at worse, allowing bacteria to enter the bottle and turning the wine into vinegar (which comes from the French word for sour wine, vin aigre). Corked wines do still occur occasionally today, but they are very rare. It is a fact that wine collectors must have their older wines recorked every 30 years to keep the wine from spoiling due to a rotting cork.

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Wine Watch: The glorious wines of Tuscany

I believe that in another life I must have been Italian and a resident of Tuscany. I say this because, although I try to be as impartial as possible, I love the wines of Tuscany. I was fortunate to spend some time there and was amazed that even in the small-town restaurants where they served their own home-made wines, the wines were excellent, very enjoyable and absolutely perfect to accompany the Tuscan cuisine.

There is another side of the coin. If the home-made wines were so good, the Tuscan commercial wines must be something special.  They are. While Tuscany is mainly known for its chianti, a name that may be used by any wine from the district that is mostly sangiovese, there are producers there whose wines rise above the ordinary and express the true Italian style of fine wine making. I recently sampled some of the imported Tuscan wines and was delighted to find that the wines had not changed and were the same gems that I enjoyed while there.

Lagone 2018 Aia Vecchia ($17). This wine has been made to please anyone who loves red wines. It is a blend of the most popular red wine grapes; 60% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc. The question arose, at least in my mind, will all of these grape varieties clash or will they meld into an interesting whole?

The answer is that they did not only meld but they also produced what has to be one of the most interesting and delightful wines on the market today. Each of the constituents adds its own special flavor and aroma to the blend. I believe that it is safe to reiterate that everything that one seeks in a red wine is right here, clearly presented and probably the most interesting wine I have tasted in a while and all at a very affordable price.

Selvapiana 2019 Chianti Rufina ($21.99). Being made in the Rufina area of Tuscany, the smallest in size and highest in altitude of the Tuscan grape growing regions and from 95% sangiovese, this wine clearly classifies as a chianti. To further classify this wine, it is a chianti on steroids. The aroma and flavor are, to say the least, powerful. Plum, ripe cherries, wild berries abound with a background hint of fresh spice are easily identifiable with new flavor sensations appearing as the wine sits in the glass. The finish is as powerful as is the wine and may I add here, as unforgettable.

Casanova di Neri 2018 IRRosso Toscana ($22). Let’s be very honest. Just the name Casanova associated with the wine perks the interest. Here the name means “new house.”. This wine too is almost all sangiovese with 5% cabernet sauvignon and 5% petit Verdot blended in to add a bit more interest and balance.

It is in the production of this wine where the vintners moved in a direction that is not often used. The wine is fermented and aged in barrels of different size and of different types of woods thus changing the wine from the expected style to a wine of incredible depth and character. The results of all that work led to a wine that has all of the expected flavors and aromas of plums, cherries, wild berries and a hint of spice and a regal elegance found in very few wines.

As one would expect, with all of that barrel use, the properties of this wine might be muted in a shower of wood flavors. Not so, the wood is there but it is in harmony with the other properties and serves more as an enhancer rather than an overpowering annoyance and if you have ever had an over oaked wine you know what I mean. This wine is very food friendly and will accompany meals that call for a red wine and some that do not.

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Wine Watch: Don’t judge a wine by its price

By Bennet Bodenstein

You don’t judge a book by its cover, nor do you judge a wine by its price. In over thirty years of writing about wine, I have sampled some monumental stinkers that sold for over $100 and some absolutely wonderful wines that were under $20.

As an example, I once tasted an Edna Valley Vineyards pinot noir that sold for under $15 that could only be described as ethereal, and a cabernet sauvignon with a price tag of $128 that I poured down the drain.

Keeping that in mind, I approach all wines by tasting them before paying attention to the price or the name of the producer. I recently had the pleasure of tasting some South American wines that, in my opinion, are well above the average.

Trivento 2019 Argentinian Reserve Malbec ($10.99). Please do not let this wine’s very affordable price tag scare you off , this is a showcase malbec that radiates all of the flavors and aromas that have made the variety so popular. This big, bold, and solid wine is very dark in color and displays the aromas of strawberry, plum, and red cherries with a hint of spice in the background. Cherries, plums, cinnamon, and coffee are the dominant flavors along with the added complexity provided by a hint of oak. This is truly a regal wine with the charm and bearing of a modern classic. It is ready to drink now or can be set down for as long as five years to soften, mellow, and take on the glow of a great classical wine. This wine will prove why malbec is becoming a favorite among many red wine drinkers.

Frontera Cabernet Sauvignon ($6.99). In the quality for your dollar category, this cabernet sauvignon from the Central Valley of Chile achieves the impossible; it is a very nice wine at an even nicer price. This deep ruby, medium bodied wine presents a clean and open aroma of spice, black currants, vanilla, and soft oak. There are no harsh tannins in this wine so it is ready to be enjoyed right now without any further aging. Another quality point is the finish, which is moderately long and very fruity. While the raised pinky connoisseur might scoff at this wine, my suggestion is “don’t knock it until you have tried it” and when you have tried it you will be very glad you did.

Frontera Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot ($6.99). The classical French Bordeaux blend of 85 percent cabernet sauvignon and 15 percent merlot is presented in its Chilean incarnation. This is not an attempt to pass off Chilean wine as a Bordeaux but rather an homage to the blend. The color of this wine is dark, very dark and the aroma reflects plum, cherry, red berries, and chocolate which carry over to the flavor and then on to a delightful finish. I found this wine to be very enjoyable and very easy to drink; however, I do have one complaint. Why can’t there be more wines this good and this affordable in today’s marketplace?

Frontera 2020 Sauvignon Blanc ($12.99). Hey, wait, a sauvignon blanc that sells for more than a cabernet sauvignon? Something here is topsy turvy or very special. It appears that the sauvignon blanc grapes were at a premium in Chile which resulted in a higher cost per bottle. Is it worth it? I must answer with a resounding “yes.” Most sauvignon blanc wines are flimsy little things that smell more of grass than the aroma of fruit. This wine’s full fruit aroma is presented right up front, exhibiting pear, peach, and citrus. These carry over to the flavor and then to the finish. Do not let this one slip past you either; it is, to say it in one word, gigantic.

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Yes, there are decent sweet wines

Most wine aficionados, geeks, and the pinky lifters look at sweet wines as “syrupy sweet little nonentities” that should not be taken seriously and dismiss them as undrinkable trash. Unfortunately, in some cases, they happen to be right. This country, whose citizens are known to have a monstrous sweet tooth, has been subjected to some incredibly poor sweet wines that have nothing at all to offer them except being an inexpensive, slightly alcoholic, grape flavored, soda pop without the bubbles.

Enter Bordeaux France, the ancestral home of many of the world’s fi nest wines, some of these being sweet wines. These wines are so popular in Europe (more specifically in Russia) that we rarely see them here. Sweet wines, often called Dessert Wines, display all of the charm and character that made the classical Bordeaux wines famous and are once again appearing on our shores. Might I suggest that we drop our sweet win prejudice and give these wines a fair trial?

Just FYI, Château d’Yquem, a Bordeaux sweet wine, was awarded the highest rating a Bordeaux wine can achieve, Premier Cru Supérieur, and sells for $250+ a bottle.

Let’s start by stating one very important point: it is ILLEGAL in every wine producing country of the world to add sugar to wine to sweeten it or increase its alcohol content; in ancient Germany, the penalty was death. Wines are made sweet in Bordeaux when growers take the gamble of losing their entire crop to frost or disease and leave the grapes on the vine long enough to create natural sugars enhanced by a good fungus called botrytis cinerea. The botrytis not only enhances the grape sugars but also adds its desirable and distinctive flavor and aroma to the finished wine.

2015 Château Dauphiné Rondillon 750 ml ($42).
This wine, as do all of the Bordeaux sweet wines, displays a golden color that is almost hypnotizing and eagerly invites the first sip. The aroma is outstanding, displaying wildflowers, citrus, and summer stone fruits. On the palate, the wine presents peaches, honey, crème brûlée, tangerine, and the unmistakably pleasant flavor from the botrytis. These all continue to the finish where they seem to last indefinitely. This is a prime example of a Bordeaux sweetie and may change your mind about sweet wines forever.

2019 Château La Hargue 375 ml ($15).

This wine presents a brilliant golden color and an attractive aroma of exotic fruit, citrus, and vanilla. The aroma proceeds nonstop to the flavor, where it is enhanced by the sweetness. The finish will impress you with its extraordinary length. If you believe that all sweet wines taste the same, the 2019 Château La Hargue will change your mind.

2018 Château Tanesse Palissades 375 ml ($15).

Another melody of a similar tune, however, this one has incorporated the Muscadelle grape into the blend for added interest, depth, and color. This is truly a summer wine as it very prominently displays the aromas of summer  flowers and the light-colored summer fruits. There are hints of citrus, such as tangerine and grapefruit, which carry on to the flavor and then transition to a fresh and fruity, almost overpowering, finish. This wine could be considered the perfect ambassador for sweet Bordeaux wines.

Château la Rame 750 ml ($35).

This wine is the most kaleidoscopic of the quartet, presenting an ever changing experience. Here too, the wine shares similar flavors and aromas to all Bordeaux sweet wines but presents its flavors in a different order, making for even greater interest. It is the summer fruits that take preference over the floral aromas. These fruits carry through to the flavor and are amplified in the finish. This wine, like all of the others presented here, can prove to be the perfect end to a perfect meal.

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You never forget your first

Among the first wines I ever wrote about were those of Wente Vineyards (https://wentevineyards.com). Like a first kiss or first date, I never forgot the occasion and it always lies safe and secure among my cherished memories. Over the years, it has slipped into the background along with some other things that I have learned over my lifetime, but it has never left me.

Years later, it was with great joy that I was privileged to reacquaint myself with my old friend. The big question was, “Would they still be as I remembered them, or had they succumbed to the current ‘bottom line’ business philosophy?” The answer was a resounding NO.

The years have been kind to Wente. The wines I sampled seemed bigger, better, and with greater depth than I remembered. Also impressive, the wines had not taken the popular route and priced themselves into the stratosphere, but instead have remained in the affordable range.

Wente 2018 Livermore  Valley Southern  Hills Cabernet Sauvignon ($20). Let’s begin by saying that this is not one of those cabs that will make you swoon in ecstasy with the first sip. It is a wine that has been made to accompany red meat dishes without overpowering them but will also fit well with many vegan foods. All of the interesting and enticing flavors found in more costly cabernet sauvignon are present in this gem. The lush flavor of berries, ripe cherries, and cassis are underscored by a gentle oak sensation.

The Wente 2018 Livermore Valley Southern Hills Cabernet  Sauvignon is a prime example of a well-made, California cabernet sauvignon. It can proudly hold its head high when compared with other California cabs in the same price range. it will revive your faith in the possibilities of chardonnay.

Wente 2018 Riva Ranch Chardonnay ($22).
This wine is typical of all the wines from Wente — luxurious, well made, and elegant. Throughout the entire process of making this wine, extra care has been taken, from the selection of the grapes to the winemaking procedures. All of this tender care results in an impeccable wine of great character and distinction. This wine features green apple and tropical fruit in both the aroma and flavor. Coupled with this is a positive oak and vanilla flavor. Unlike many of
the lesser chardonnays, this wine has a long, fruity, and captivating finish. Try this wine with seafood as well as almost any poultry-based dishes and I am sure it will revive your faith in the possibilities of chardonnay.

Wente 2018 Morning Fog Chardonnay ($18).
Wente Morning Fog; the name alone says it all. The cool morning fog that blows over the vineyard helps produce the delicate flavors and aromas in a full-flavored chardonnay. All too often, the very sensitive chardonnay grapes get baked by the sun, resulting in higher grape sugar which, in a dry wine, increases the alcohol when fermented to dryness. Too much alcohol then requires some additional processing to reduce it. As a bit of FYI, the fabled chardonnays of France are grown in a district that is about as far north as fine grapes can be grown. This is why there can be massive differences between chardonnays from producer to producer.

The Wente 2018 Morning Fog Chardonnay offers a fine wine at a reasonable price. This wine is heavy with aromas of summer fruits, vanilla, and oak. All of these scents are incorporated into the flavor with an added sensation of big, ripe raisins. Like all of the Wente wines, there is a long and fruity finish that lasts in the mouth for a bit after it has been swallowed. This may not be the wine for wine snobs (it’s not expensive enough for them) but it certainly can fi t the bill anywhere a Chardonnay or a really fine sipping wine is called for.

 

 

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My ‘aha’ moment with Ram’s Gate

It all began with an email from Ram’s Gate Winery announcing the updating and upgrading of their label and website, which proved about as exciting as an email announcing national rutabaga day. (Editor’s note: I resemble that remark.) There was, however, some interest in the name Ram’s Gate Winery as it was a name I had never encountered. Some judicious research turned a question into one of those very pleasant “aha” moments.

Ram’s Gate Winery is located in the Carneros district of Sonoma County California, the place where some of the world’s finest grapes are grown. As you can well imagine, that piqued my interest. I proceeded to order some of their wine and learned that I had missed a winery that, without much fanfare, was producing excellent quality, and not simply “off the shelf” wine, but rather classical art in liquid form.

Ram’s Gate 2019 Rosé ($38). This pink wine captures all of the flavor and aroma nuances of the Pinot Noir grape and then wraps them in the free and open floral style of a rosé. Made from 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Grenache, this wine displays an aroma that will delight the senses as the flavor dances across the palate. Strawberries, raspberries, and pomegranates abound in the aroma while it is citrus which captivates the tongue.

Ram’s Gate Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($38). Sauvignon Blanc is brought to new heights of excellence in this offering from Ram’s Gate. This wine accentuates all the fruit flavors rarely found in some of the current varieties. Gone are the overpowering grassy flavors and aromas that have always been associated with this wine, and in place are the rich fruit-tastes of nectarine, melon, and mandarin orange. Oak and vanilla are also present as under-flavors as they add their individual charm. If you have tried Sauvignon Blanc in the past and had been turned off by the grassy and vegetative aromas and flavors, try this wine; it is totally different and totally exquisite.

Ram’s Gate 2019 Pinot Blanc ($38). The Pinot Blanc grape has seen little service in the United States. One sip of the Ram’s Gate 2019 Pinot Blanc will have you scratching your head in wonderment as to why this delightful wine has been overlooked. The wine’s calling card is its rich apple, peach, and melon aroma. The flavor mirrors its aroma with a suggestion of honey and a hint of oak sitting gracefully in the background. This is an excellent wine that, because of its rarity, should be sought out and sampled.

Ram’s Gate 2017 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($48). This wine is a true child of California and reflects the fine hand of Ram’s Gate vintners; it opens with the harmonious aroma of currents, cherries, red berries, and pomegranates, accompanied by a hint of incense in the background. The flavor incorporates the elements of the aroma and merges them with blackberries, blueberries, vanilla, and oak, finishing with a fruity and full experience. I cannot say enough about this wine, nor heap enough superlatives. It is a pure delight and can accompany almost everything. If you miss this wine, you will have missed one of the great joys in the wine world.

 Ram’s Gate 2016 Hyde Vineyard Syrah ($70). This wine takes the Syrah grape to new heights and what a “wow” wine it is. Deep and dark in color, it captures the heart and soul of the Syrah grape and all that it offers. Each element making up this wine is massive; it displays a rich and inviting black cherry, plum, blackberry, and coffee aroma. The flavor is expansive and enjoyable, featuring blackberry, coffee, and spice before transitioning to a fruity finish  hat lingers on the palate for a very long time. This is very big in all dimensions; however, I can assure you that I put this wine in the “money well spent”  category.

By Bennet Bodenstein

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Wine Watch: Worthy wines from the Pairing

I believe that the average American consumer has become a little leery of all the stuff they see advertised on TV. Most of it is junk, not worth the “only $19.95, free shipping and we will send you a second one for a small additional fee,” that they advertise.

The wine industry also suffers in a similar way. As a holdover from Prohibition (enacted in 1919), wine companies are still restricted in the ways they may advertise and in the content of those ads. Consumers must, therefore, rely on writers to tell them what is available in the marketplace and give some sort of information on the wine.

With prices on all items rising, consumers will not plunk down their money on something that is totally unknown to them and I truly do not blame them. It is my job to point the wine consumer toward worthy choices that they probably might never have tried without a nudge; consider this a nudge.

The Paring 2017 Pinot Noir ($25)

This is a Pinot Noir of character, stature, and an excellent ambassador of the variety. The aroma is a mélange of strawberries, red raspberries, and black cherries mingled with oak. In the flavor department, the true capabilities of the
Pinot Noir grape is explored to its fullest with black cherries dominating and hints of vanilla with soft oak in the background. The finish remains true to the variety and is long, complex, and if I might add, memorable. As a confirmed Pinot Noir lover, I enjoyed this wine and consider it to be an excellent buy for the money.

The Paring 2017 Chardonnay ($25)

This is a Chardonnay that is definitely made to appeal to the American taste. Big, wide-open, and complex tropical fruit flavors and aromas are the hallmarks of this wine. Pineapple is the most obvious of these tropical flavors and it carries right through to a finish that is soft, creamy, and very smooth. Even if you are a charter member of the ABC club (Anything But Chardonnay), this is a white wine you can drink and enjoy. It is so good that you may even resign from the ABC.

The Paring 2017 Syrah ($25)

If you are a red wine fan, you have probably tried a Syrah and you know what a fine wine it can be; if you have not tried one, you have missed a real treat. The aroma has the variety’s trademark of cherry and raspberry flavors with a spice and oak background. This is a soft and easy to drink wine that can, like a red Zinfandel, accompany a very broad spectrum of foods. The Paring 2017 Syrah wine takes these attributes one step further and raises the variety to new dimensions of opulence. It is an elegant wine of elegant proportions and shows exactly why Syrah wines are gaining in popularity around the world.

The Paring 2017 Sauvignon Blanc ($25)

Sauvignon Blanc grapes can produce wines in the fruity California style or the classical style. The Paring 2017 Sauvignon Blanc lives in both worlds. It has the
grassy component of the classical wines, which has been purposely played down so that the fruitiness of the California style can come through. This effect allows the wine to be served with a wider spectrum of foods, will nicely accompany poultry and the lighter meats as well as seafood, and is a standout as a sipping wine. The quality of this wine belies its very reasonable price.

The Paring 2017 Red ($25)

The name of this wine is really three letters that could portend trouble, RED.
Not knowing the grapes used to make this generic wine could result in one that you may not like. Fear not, this wine is not only good, but it also is remarkable. The components each contribute their own specific flavors and aromas to the final blend in such a way that one variety’s contribution does not overpower another, but harmonizes to produce a delightful wine.

 

By Bennet Bodenstein

 

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Wine Watch: Boutique Cabs offer plenty of body

August 29 is officially National Cabernet Sauvignon day. With that monumental announcement out of the way, let’s look into some above- average cabs. Dotted all over northern California.

Dotted all over northern California there are vineyards.Some small, some large and all of them producing wine. We do know about the “big boys” but what about some of the smaller “Mom and Pop” operations also known as boutique wineries. These smaller producers have hung on throughout all forms of privation from drought, to flood, to freezes, to intensive governmental interference. They have hung on because inside each and every bottle that they produce rests their hearts along with a commitment to produce the best wine possible from the best grapes available.

These wines go far beyond the mass- produced examples of the variety so common in today’s marketplace. In respect for the day, I would like to introduce you to some excellent cabs from wineries you may never have heard of and who produce wines that you will never forget.

All cabs, from the cheapest to the dearest, present the same basic flavors and aromas associated with Cabernet Sauvignon. But the TLC of boutique wineries makes a big difference. The wines I present here all have one facet that more commercial cabs often do not have: body. If you have never tried a wine with body you will be in for an enlightening and very pleasant experience.

Priest Ranch 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon ($50)

The grapes were sourced from the Somerston Estate that produces unique fruit requiring minimal processing. The winemaker allows the grapes to do their thing with little intervention, resulting in a wine that almost made itself and is a pure delight. priestranchwines.com/Shop/Cabernet- Sauvignon

Justin 2017 Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon ($28)

This very fine wine exhibits all of the aroma and flavors that are possible for a Cabernet Sauvignon and does so in almost obscene amounts. Regardless of the price, this is a very fine enjoyable wine. justinwine. com

Mi Sueño 2016 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($75)

Mi Sueño translates as “my dream”, and that is certainly what this wine is, “a dream of a Cab.” Full bodied, full flavored, and made in the old world tradition. This wine, too, covers the entire gamut of possible flavors and aromas all ending in an expansive and definitely memorable finish. misuenowinery. com

Sullivan 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($110)

The fruit was sourced from a 26-acre estate This wine strikes the perfect balance between power and elegance. This is a wine that should be sipped slowly to extend the enjoyment of a very fine wine. This is the most complex of all the cabs I sampled. sullivanwine.com

Dry Creek Valley Iron Slopes Terroir Series ($65)

I must admit that, as is usual, I was impressed by this wine. I must also add that a Dry Creek Valley wine has never disappointed me. This wine is so good that I believe it should be classified as the “Ideal California Cab.” drycreekvineyard.com

Dry Creek Valley 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon ($30)

 

Another gem from Dry Creek Valley Vineyards. This wine is simply the same song performed by a different singer. The wine displays cranberry as the main flavor and aroma followed by a host of other dark summer fruits and berries in the background. This wine is a fine and affordable introduction to the variety and the producer. drycreekvineyard.com

Gamble Family Vineyards 2016 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($60)

Third- generation Napa farmer, Tom Gamble farms approximately 175 acres of vineyards so he has complete control of the grapes. This wine has been made from grapes selected from Tom Gamble’s favorite sites. This is an incredibly enjoyable wine that displays a full spectrum of flavors and aromas as though it should be presented in a golden goblet. I will add that this was the first time that I have sampled a wine from the Gamble Family vineyards, and I can assure you that it will not be my last. gamblefamilyvineyards.com.

 

By Bennet Bodenstein

Posted on

Fine wine from a total solar eclipse

It took almost one thousand years for the vineyards in Burgundy, France,
to become dedicated to specific varieties, and it was the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that became the masters of that fiefdom. When winemaking got started in California, the vintners planted anything and everything that they could lay their hands on. Among those early vintners was a faux Hungarian Count, Agoston Haraszthy, who is often credited with bringing to California most of the grape vines that have found a home there.

It has taken our vintners only 150 years and modern science to determine what grows best and where. Once the best locations were determined, American vintners began to make wine. American grapes, however, were not mirror images of their French parents, and winemakers had to discard French winemaking techniques to develop new ways of turning finicky grapes into exceptional wines.

Among the myriad of producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines, only a few have mastered those grapes and are producing outstanding wines. I recently had the privilege to sample some wines from one of those latter-day vintners, Gary Farrell. The grapes for all these wines were picked on August 21, 2017, the day of a total solar eclipse.

2017 Olivet Lane Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($45).

The wine is outstanding and memorable. If you are seeking a carbon copy of a French Montrachet, you will be disappointed, as this wine is
a true child of California. The aroma of apples, peaches, and pears are intertwined with notes of fragrant summer flowers. I believe that this wine will set the stylistic direction for better Chardonnays for years to come.

2017 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($45).

The grapes for this wine were sourced from seven of the top vineyards in the Russian River Valley. The fruit from each vineyard adds its own nuance to the final blend, resulting in a delicately scented and brightly flavored wine. Cherries, both the fruit and the blossoms, dominate the aroma along with vanilla and toasted nuts. This is a wine that should not be taken for granted. It is a grand example of what a fine, well-made California Pinot Noir should be.

2017 Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($35).

This wine was made from the grapes of famous vineyards in the Russian River Valley. The wine displays the aroma of lemon, melon, peach, and pear with hints of green tea, jasmine and two of my personal favorites, arugula and wasabi. These flavors continue on to the finish where they mingle with tropical fruit and apple. This wine has an incomparable and unforgettable silky finish with hints of flavors that I have never before experienced in a Chardonnay.

It is customary to serve white wines slightly chilled. Unfortunately, all too often, the wines are served too cold so their characteristics become muted. If the wine fogs the glass, it is too cold. Twenty minutes in the refrigerator should be more than enough.

 

By Bennet Bodenstein 

Posted on

It’s Your Choice

The best wine in the world is the wine you like best. By reading the last statement you have just been liberated from any of the antiquated ideas about wine that you may have had. We are in the 21st century and if you have not noticed, it is a brand new world. The rules, regulations, habits, and snobbish traditions about wine and food pairing of the past are hereby declared null and void.

Let’s start by knocking out that “written in stone” commandment that red wine must be served at room temperature. The rooms in question were in Europe and centuries old. Think about it, no central heating, no artificial lighting, and no air conditioning, nothing but four walls, a fireplace, a couple of windows. and a door. Today, our homes have lots of light and a broad range of temperatures; so what the heck do they mean by room temperature? Have I made my point? Now that you have been liberated from the constrictions of the past, where do we go from here? Wine was developed as a safe beverage to accompany food in ancient times. In the past, water was a dangerous beverage to drink because of the diseases it often harbored, so it was wine or beer that became the mealtime beverages of preference.

The last statement certainly makes the legal requirement of the warning label on the back of a bottle of wine concerning the effects of wine on pregnant women seem a bit foolish. Wine was imbibed by one and all in past centuries, even pregnant women and children; there are not too many malformed individuals whose problem was caused by drinking wine in Europe today. In the immortal words of W.C. Fields, a film actor of the early days of movies noted for consuming copious amounts of alcohol, “I don’t drink water … fish urinate in it.” Now we come to what wine goes with what food. It is not an edict that came down from Mount Sinai with the Ten Commandments, “thou shall serve red wines with red meat, white wine with everything else.” I do not believe that sushi, sashimi, Cashew Chicken,

Big Mac’s and their ilk were very well known in the Europe of old, so there are no fixed rules about what to serve with them. The next time you go out to a better restaurant and the server asks you if you would want wine with your dinner, answer with “Moscato” or “blush Zinfandel” and watch his/her face distort. But, if that is your choice, who has any right to tell you that it is or is not the “proper” wine to go with the fare you have ordered. Look at it this way: who is going to drink the wine, you or them, and who is paying for it? Also, look at your plate … a meat, a vegetable, and a starch. By my count, there are two non-meat products to the one piece of meat.

Doing the math, that means that white wine wins two to one. Next time you order a steak, it’s OK to order a Chardonnay, Viognier, or Pinot Grigio, if that is what you like; it’s your choice. We are living in what will probably be among the greatest centuries of all time. We have cell phones, computers, and soon, maybe vacation trips to the Moon or Mars, so there is no reason to be living in the past, and there is also no wine police to punish you for your choice of a wine. We got where we are today by building on the past and not following it and by investigation, experimentation, and innovation. If you do not believe that, rent any one of the movies of the ’40s or ’50s and you will see how far we have come in our daily lives. We end this with the statement we began with … The best wine in the world is the wine you like best.

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