Author: Charles Marcanetti

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Los Tacos

Sometimes what is meant as a compliment sounds like anything but. So that there is no confusion, what I am about to say is offered as high praise, given with much respect and admiration not only for this restaurant but also, and perhaps more importantly, to the Mexican-American population, to Mexicans around the world who bring a taste of their homeland to the faraway places they travel, and to the residents of Mexico, a land steeped in history, culture, tradition, and fabulous food creations.

And so I say lovingly, that to call Mexican cuisine, however, prepared, “gourmet” is almost an insult to Mexicans because the very essence of Mexican cooking speaks to hominess, family, friends, sharing, and joy. Gourmet sounds like an affectation. Gourmet sounds highfalutin. Gourmet sounds like a separation of the haves from the have-nots. And, dear friends, Mexican food is the reverse of that. It is the embracing of different tastes, different spices, and herbs, and meats, fowl, and fish made to be enjoyed — not diagnosed. It is meant to be experienced holistically and not separated from the environment, the people at the dining table, or the time of year, day of the week, or occasion.

Los Tacos by Chef Omar ought to be called gourmet without any of the negative connotations attached. The food is quite simply fantastic and quite simply — typically Mexican, in the truest sense.

South Florida has an abundance of fast-food Mexican places, mostly franchises, and I really enjoy them. Though the restaurant names are different, the menus vary very little, and I actually thought that what I was served was the extent of Mexican food. Wow! I was so wrong.

Also, Coral Springs is rapidly becoming a mecca for inter-national foods. Indian, Peruvian, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, American, and now Mexican restaurants dot the commercial strips. It’s great for us, great for the locals and visitors, great for families, and great for me, as I get to sample foods from around the world and I barely have to leave home.

Los Tacos by Chef Omar is a mini-chain – I think Chef Omar now has three. I’m betting he can’t open them fast enough, as his eating public is likely demanding them.

So, why am I so gaga over such a simple formula? It’s how Omar perfected the items and balanced the spices and kept the decor simple but inviting. It is also how he staffs his eateries. On our review night, Vanessa served us. She is fluent in English/Spanish and fluent in each and every item’s ingredients and the expected results of the blends, such as smooth on the palate but warm in the tummy, or hot on the tongue but quickly dissipating to sweet. For the sake of fairness, I must reveal that Vanessa is not Mexican. She is Puerto Rican. I tell you this so you will know that food servers come in all sizes, shapes, and backgrounds. It is up to each one to master the art of serving. Vanessa has succeeded.

I am not going to spend much time discussing the particular dishes, although Omar spends much time preparing them and fine-tuning them. My reasoning is simple: Mexican cooking revolves around using a few ingredients per item and balancing them to achieve the desired result. I don’t enjoy writing about the use of chili peppers offset with a sweet spice or hot sauces balanced with avocado; I’m gambling that you agree. I am gambling that, like me, you want to know if this place is worth going to. It most assuredly is.

What I am hoping you want to answer is this: Is Los Tacos by Chef Omar a place I and my family will enjoy? Yes. Is Los Tacos by Chef Omar a place where the clientele is seeking a fun evening in addition to great food? Yes. Is it bright, clean, and festive? Yes, yes, yes.

Finally, the one thing we all want to be comfortable knowing is that the food is fresh. Omar uses as many locally grown ingredients as are available. He shops daily to assure freshness. His meats are selected for their tenderness, color, complexity, and use (no sense in using breast meat chicken if the recipe calls for wings). Olé!

10299 Royal Palm Boulevard, Coral Springs

754-229-8940

 

by Charles Marcanetti

March 2016

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Kosta’s Greek Eatery

It starts with the menu, which proudly announces its philosophy, “Where Everyone Is Welcome.” Further down we learn that there is a private room for “Big Fat Greek Weddings”.

Of course, even before the menus arrive one might hear the crashing of dishes as Kosta, the owner and chef at Kosta’s Greek Eatery (5024 N. Federal Highway, Lighthouse Point, 954-571-3842), smashes plates against the stone-like tile floor signaling a mighty greeting and a wish for good health for arriving guests (customers). Then the wait-personnel, with proud and happy grins, usher you to your seats; large tables, anticipating large meals.

No one, absolutely no one, is ever disappointed. This truly Greek eatery is a wonderful family restaurant serving truly authentic Greek foods in an environment reminiscent of Greek eateries throughout the Greek Isles. The food is marvelous, the atmosphere is light and cordial and the waitstaff is highly professional and fully knowledgeable of each item on this wonderfully balanced menu. Actually, all the fancy words are not sufficient to describe the one critical element so essential for such restaurants – is it fun?

The answer is an emphatic, “yes!” Kosta’s Greek Eatery is fun, and the food is delicious and the service is exemplary.

Kosta is a big, strapping man who consumes an entire pitcher (and more) each evening of iced tea to cool him down as he prepares mouth-watering dish after mouthwatering dish. He greets each guest regardless of how busy he is, and he still finds the extra seconds to smash his plates and keep this impromptu party going. His day, however, begins with the food buying. He trusts no one to shop for the evening’s meal and if anyone tries to sell him anything different than he demands he simply passes on to the next item. He demands the best because to him, only the best will do for his precious customers. It is evident in the quality of the food.

As usual, we ordered much too much, but that’s the advantage of being a food critic. In addition to the Three Dip Platter ($12.95) Tzatziki, Humus and Eggplant Salad served with grilled pita, we had three other appetizers.

Kosta’s Meatball Appetizer ($9.50) is clearly NOT Italian. It is sweet and is actually made leaving the chopped meat with larger pieces of the meat (less chopped) adding fantastic texture to the meatball. They were perfectly spiced making for a light, never over-bearing taste and pressed into shape without making them as hard as a baseball, so that even the chewing was enjoyable.

Then, the quintessential Greek Appetizer: Homemade Dolmades ($7.50). These Grape Leaves Stuffed with Ground Beef and White Rice, are finished with a Creamy Lemon Dill Sauce and are very light. They will convince anyone who hasn’t yet eaten Greek cuisine to start the experience immediately and to those of us who are old-timers, they “open” the evening with a joyful treat.

We also had Sautéed Calamari ($10.95) as ONLY the Greeks can make. It was served with homemade marinara sauce, wasn’t breaded, remained moist and crunchy to the bite, and stands up to any calamari served in any ethnic restaurant, anywhere.

What would a trip to a Greek Restaurant be without sampling the Greek Salad ($6.50 small and $8.50 large)? At Kosta’s, it consists of lettuce, tomato, red onion, olives, and dolmades topped with Feta cheese and tossed in a very special vinaigrette.

Our main course was initiated by a dish of Loukaniko Sausages ($13.95), which are Greek country sausages from a small village in Greece called Kastoria. These great sausages were crisp on the outside and moist and tender on the inside…just the way sausages should be.

Then came another Greek staple; Spinach Pie with Feta Cheese ($14.95). Kosta makes these fantastic creations with Greek Fillo Dough, Spinach and Feta Cheese in a protected recipe of secret seasonings. Don’t question the secret; eat and enjoy a wonderful taste sensation.

Kosta’s “House Special” Grilled Steak Portobello Mushrooms and Onion ($20.95) is a true South Florida classic. It is made with a Giant Skirt Steak grilled to perfection and smothered (really smothered) with Grilled Portobello Mushrooms and Onions. We added three Jumbo (really Jumbo) shrimp making the dish add up to $29.95 and worth every drachma.

What would any visit to a Greek restaurant be without savoring Greek Lamb Chops ($27.95)? Kosta’s is renowned throughout this area for preparing the best lamb chops in Florida. I won’t argue. They are tender, juicy, and sweet and had just the right amount of “pepperiness” (I made up the word), to bring out the true texture of this rather difficult to cook (correctly) specialty. I recommend it to you—let me know your opinion.

Our last main course was the Jumbo Shrimp Mykonos ($27.95). It is a dish consisting of Jumbo Grilled Shrimp, topped with Fresh Tomato, Basil, and Garlic Sauce with melted Feta Cheese served over a bed of the most delicious Greek rice you’ll ever have.

All these main dishes are served with side dishes and each side dish is so good you’ll want to make the side dish another main dish…oh, the pressure we must endure!

And, my dear friends, as you might expect, we finished our evening with the sweetest, moistest, flakiest, most delicious Baklava ($4.00) anyone could imagine. Leave room for it or it’ll be your loss.

Psst! Try the Greek wine Kleoni, it will add a great touch to a fun-filled evening. Hoopa!

Kosta’s

5024 N. Federal Highway, Lighthouse Point,

954-571-3842

Hours of Business:

11:30 p.m.-2p.m. Tuesday-Friday

5 p.m.-9:30 p.m. Sunday-Thursday

5 p.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday

 

By Charles Marcanetti

October 2008

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Jet Runway Café

From 1920 to 1933, America was an alcohol-free country (yeah, sure). Still, America’s thirst for inebriants flourished and hidden clubs grew up everywhere, the entering into which was prefaced by whispering a password. And so, the Speakeasy was born. After America came to its partying senses, some enterprising restaurateurs began hiding themselves in semi-secret locations ensuring that the mystery and uniqueness of their eateries were heightened.

Some 76 years later came the birth of Jet Runway Café at Fort Lauderdale Executive Airport. Hidden among hangars, parked airplanes, and helicopters, it continues, now seven years later, enchanting its patrons with astounding fare and remarkable views of the landings and takeoffs of planes old and new, and the comings and goings of support personnel and vehicles.

Not only is this a superlative breakfast and lunch experience, Jet Runway Café can, and frequently does, cater on-site parties up to 150 people and larger events on-site and off-site, indoors and outdoors literally touching the runways.

 

OMG. The same chefs and sous-chefs as watch over the day-to-day diners create the many dishes offered for the gatherings. And yes, there seems to be no shortage of pilots and passengers flying in for a meal … and take-out.

One of the clues we food critics use in determining if a restaurant is “solid” is the staff turnover. At Jet Runway Café the shortest time employee is 4½ years and our server for our luncheon, Luanda, has been there six years. She loves what she does and where she does it. And her colleagues and, most of all, her customers can tell from her first smile to her modest approach to delivering the check that this is her turf. Of course, Luanda and any and all the other servers would have a hard time existing at one location if the food wasn’t top-notch. It is. And now, let’s check out some of the offerings.

We started off with Margarita Flatbread consisting of grape tomatoes, mozzarella, basil pesto, and balsamic glaze, and Pulled Pork Flatbread made with mojo pork, shredded mozzarella, and cilantro chimichurri. I would love to get the recipe because each was light but full-flavored and I could have made a meal of it. But I’m glad I didn’t because we next savored two remarkable salads: Silver Lining Salad made with mixed greens, grilled chicken, candied pecans, sundried cranberries, mandarin oranges, grape tomatoes, and gorgonzola drizzled with balsamic vinaigrette; and, my favorite salad, the Crispy Goat Cheese Salad created by melding blackened shrimp, baby spinach, candied pecans, strawberries, blueberries, and a balsamic vinaigrette. It’s like having dessert for lunch.

Jet Runway Café offers a different soup daily, so check it out on the day(s) you’re going. We went on a Monday, French Onion Soup day. The soup was just as it was supposed to be and for French Onion Soup that is saying a lot, as too often the only thing French about it is the name. Here it was French, French Onion Soup and delicious. Tomato Bisque is on the menu every day. So just to be polite (LOL) I sampled it. I loved it.

They serve half-pound burgers with lots of accoutrements and in many different styles. I had none, but judging from the aromas and the look on the faces of the patrons eating them I can say you will likely be very impressed. But why would I not have a burger for lunch? Simple, because I saw what the main courses were and I opted for the gourmet, as opposed to the gourmand.

Steak Chimichurri was fabulous, made as close to perfection as I have experienced in a long time and the skirt steak is served with grilled onions, black beans, yellow rice, and roasted vegetables. I also had a giant portion of the Honey Lime Salmon made with Atlantic salmon with a citrus glaze and served with whipped garlic potatoes and mixed vegetables.

We also could not resist the Mahi-Mahi sandwich served with guacamole, lettuce, tomato, pickle, and chipotle mayo served on toasted brioche, plus the Crab Cake sandwich made from lump crab and cilantro-lime aioli and served with guacamole, lettuce, tomato, and pickle on a toasted brioche bun, and finally the Cuban sandwich made with roasted pulled pork, Virginia ham, Swiss cheese, kosher pickle, and mustard served on a soft white hoagie. None of these creations is typical fare but they are perfect for lunch and later on in the day when you take lots and lots of the items home.

Even if you don’t believe me I tell you truly that we also had every one of their side dishes — the Mac-N-Cheese, Sweet Potato Fries, Seasoned Fries, and Sweet Plantains — and each was mouthwatering. For dessert, we had the Bag of Cookies and the Chocolate Cake and I will not have a craving for sweets for years to come. Lastly, for the food let me say that Jet Runway Café serves the best sweet raspberry iced tea I have ever had.

My experience at this totally enjoyable eatery has assured them of my becoming a regular customer and a person who proudly offers his word of mouth to all who would hear.

5540 NW 21st Terrace Fort Lauderdale

954-958-9900 (restaurant)

954-990-1939 (catering)

info@jetrunwaycafe.com

 

By Charles Marcanetti

February 2016

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HASHI Sushi & Thai

Sometimes I review the upscale, high-priced gourmet eateries in this area, and sometimes I review the “eat here every day” delicious, comfortable, and informal eateries.

This month it is the latter, and I’ve been a customer of this particular restaurant for several years, ever since the new owners took over.

 

Hashi Sushi and Thai, located a few doors down from Walgreens in the Borders Strip Mall in the Northeast quadrant of 441 and Glades Road (9845 Glades Road, Boca Raton, Fla., 561-477-9989), is simply a wonderful Sushi/Thai/Asian restaurant with fresh fish, tender meats, great wheat and rice noodles, sweet hot sake, and low prices. It is decorated in the mellow Asian motif which, as always, is unpretentious, clean, and inviting. (Please see the great little designs with the straw wrappers, continually made by the owner’s mom.)

If you’re like me you probably don’t relish the thought of going into a small, mom-and-pop restaurant without someone recommending it. After all, some of those places are disgusting, unsuited to serve anything to anyone at any time. So, at least let me give you the all-clear on this quaint and special eatery. Years ago, I started with a small, fried rice dish to check them out. Next, I moved up to two small pieces of salmon sushi. (If it wasn’t fresh I’d have smelled it and run away.) Finally, I brought the final arbiter of my safety in food consumption: my wife, Maria.

I’m sure the modest and humble owners–Sakchan Makhamphan, who is also the head chef, and his delightful and attentive wife, Araya Naphakorn, who runs the “front”–would love you to come in for a delicious dinner (and they are delicious) still, I’d guess that their lunch business is their real money time. But they’re never too busy to make you feel special and there’s always quick service.

I have probably eaten everything on the large menu at least once and so, though there isn’t enough room to comment on all, let me tell you that whatever you order will be prepared and presented just the way you like it.

Here’s a sampling: The Tuna Tataki (thin slices of seared tuna, served with ponzu sauce) and the Sunomono (conch, octopus, crab, and shrimp with cucumbers in ponzu sauce) are my favorite appetizers. The tuna is warm and the sunomono is cool so your every desire can be accommodated.

I’m not a big sushi-roll eater, as I prefer to have one fish at a time. But, I love salmon skin rolls and occasionally indulge in Hashi Sushi’s version of a Rainbow KC Roll where the chef chooses the best combination of salmon and tuna mixed with Hamachi, asparagus, scallions, and roe and then wraps it all in a very thinly sliced cucumber. It’s six pieces and large enough to be an entire appetizer, though, for me it is a mere morsel.

Edamame, steamed soybeans, lightly salted, and Shumai, steamed or fried shrimp dumplings, along with Gyoza, steamed or fried pork dumplings, are wonderful openers, as well. I also can’t resist the soft-shelled crab, which is lightly fried and served with ponzu sauce. I’ve said it before about other excellent sushi restaurants, and I’ll add Hashi Sushi to the list, that if you’re cold, or feel a cold coming on, order the Seafood Udon Noodle Soup–ask for it very hot and eat it very hot. By the end of the feast, you will feel much better — sort of like “Japanese chicken soup.” Or, order it when you feel just fine because it is really a satisfying dish.

Fresh, cool, and invigorating salads, prepared in a truly Asian way are abundant; here’s just a few that I have eaten over the years: Oriental Chicken Salad, Oriental Shrimp Salad, Seared Sesame Tuna Salad, Sashimi Salad, and Wakame (seaweed salad).

All the hot entrees are served with miso soup or salad, and rice. I could list them at this juncture but that would be merely copying their menu. Let it suffice to say that the hot entrees are every bit as good as all of the food at Hashi Sushi and Thai. This eatery is not only worth visiting whenever you’re at the Borders’ mall or whenever you’re going to or coming from the Shadowood Movie Theater — it is worth a trip just for lunch or dinner.

Hashi Sushi and Thai

9845 Glades Road, Boca Raton, Fla

561-477-9989

 

By Charles Marcanetti

[June 2010]

Posted on

Japango

There are three Asian/sushi restaurants that I eat in regularly. They actually triangulate our readership area and depending on where I am when the desire strikes, that’s where I go. This month, having just realized that it’s been years that I am a customer and I never reviewed them, I am singing the praises of Japango, located north of Hillsboro on the west side of 441. It’s been around for a long time, which should indicate how good it is. It is also sexy in its décor and has an exceptionally wide variety of styles and choices of fish, poultry, and meat specialties, cooked, lightly cooked, and raw.

Most “sushi” eateries are simple, small, and aimed at serving fresh fish in an old country-style diner-like atmosphere. For me, as in Japan, that’s the way it should be. Except at Japango they tweaked the philosophy just a bit. It is a “real” restaurant. It is smartly laid out in soft lighting, mellow colors, and encourages a slower dining experience, one where we sit and savor our dishes. Of course, when you try to guide your clientele toward a relaxed atmosphere you run the risk of having poor service. Not at Japango. They have the service timed to coordinate with each table’s rate of eating; a perfectly timed dining choreography.

None of this would mean a thing if the food was lousy. Japango’s fish is fresh, cut to the exact size called for (sashimi is cut thinner than nigiri and nigiri is the better name for what most of us call “sushi”).

Let me explain – technically any fish served with vinegared rice is sushi, but that type of sushi served in rectangular slices – or round – is nigiri. I recommend, without authority, an article at allaboutsushiguide. com/types-of-sushi.html for those of you who are really curious.

 

Another wonderful treat at Japango is that they have an extensive menu. Some sushi restaurants add some meat and poultry dishes to satisfy the few remaining people who scrunch up their faces at the sound of sushi. At Japango, you’ll find a full Asian/Thai menu and a fairly wide array of Vegan dishes. So, even if your newly converted vegetarian college student son, daughter, or grandchild waxes endlessly about the dangers of this food or that food, even they will not go hungry (don’t send me letters complaining about my insensitivity – I was that person).

While I have sampled much of the menu I have not had each and every item. But, I have had some of each: Japanese, Thai, Sushi, Wok, raw, cooked, and even vegetarian. I have never been disappointed. I feel confident that you will be happy when you visit and return time after time.

However, I feel compelled to tell you about some of my favorites.

 

The Ultimate Sea Bass Roll – made with shrimp, mango, masago, scallion, asparagus, and enclosed in soy wrap with avocado and grilled miso seabass on top with miso butter, eel sauce, red and green tobiko – is outstanding. The Japango Lobster Bomb – made with tempura lobster, scallions, asparagus, ginger, fish eggs, rolled in seaweed and topped with jumbo prawn with spicy mayo, eel sauce, and further accompanied by tempura lobster in a shell with spicy wasabi – is equally good.

Sometimes, when I am feasting on raw fish I miss the “chewing” sensation so I order a Soft Shell Eel Roll – made with soft shell crab, volcano shrimp, and ginger wrapped in soy paper topped with avocado, eel, and eel sauce. The softshell crab allows me to crunch a little and my palate is sated.

If you enjoy more than miso soup (I love miso soup) you must try the Shrimp and Lobster Wonton Soup – made with homemade shrimp and lobster gyoza in chicken stock, topped with shredded bok choy. It is wonderful.

Are you still looking for warm, cooked food? OK. The Black Bean Basil Sea Bass – made with red pepper, green pepper, onion, jalapeno chili with black bean basil sauce, or the Garlic Lobster – served with two lobster tails, snow peas, mushroom, carrots, baby corn, celery sautéed with garlic sauce, and accompanied with jasmine rice – will each knock your socks off.

They serve only premium hot sake and, as usual, I cannot get enough. I never drive when I visit Japango.

I conclude by telling you that Japango is a sushi and Asian restaurant, suitable for a fine dining experience but lending itself, as well, to a lighter lunch or evening dinner. Bring your guests, your family, and friends. It’s fun, fine dining in a well-lighted, happy environment.

By Charles Marcanetti

[February 2017]

Posted on

Eduardo de San Angel (Mexican)

WHAT IS MEXICAN INFUSION? I can make it very simple: my mother operated an “infusion” kitchen when we were children. When my mother cooked Hungarian goulash, it had an infusion of Italian. When she cooked potato latkes, they were infused with an Italian flair. The difference at Eduardo’s is a gourmet menu and my mother’s was an “eat this or eat nothing” menu.

At Eduardo de San Angel, we find decidedly gourmet chefs, who are trained in Mexican cuisine, re-creating dishes from around the world. An example is the duck l’Orange — Long Island duckling in a spicy guava syrup and cinnamon-poached pear compote. Out with the French and in with the Mexican – brilliant!

Eduardo de San Angel (and he is a real person, the owner, and the chef ) has an outstandingly international menu that creatively re-organizes famous dishes to reflect a delicate, but enticing, Mexican flair.

Most Mexican restaurants are bright and dance like in their décor. Not Eduardo’s. Here we found a lighting pattern bright enough to know that no one was hiding the food from sight and still soft enough to project a romantic aura. Here walls were not full of Mexican scenes; they were subtle and tasteful, as found in a New England estate home.

But this “estate” was not so large as to lose guests and not so small as to cramp everyone in. This is a fine example of a well-balanced establishment with proper flow, aimed at the customers’ satisfaction. It is balanced against the ease of service and the maximizing of attention to diners. I was quite struck with this eatery and pleased to see that the food presentations were as well-conceived as the environment.

My guests and I are all fans of ceviche. Here, it is prepared with plum tomatoes, sweet onions, and jalapeno peppers, then cilantro-marinated in lime juice and gold tequila. The sashimi-grade loin of yellowfin tuna and the grilled North Atlantic calamari were each treated to Eduardo’s infusion of Mexican spices. They were a perfect segue to one of the tastiest soups ever created. Eduardo’s cilantro soup, while still only a frequent special, is soon to be a regular feature. Do yourselves a favor and ask if it is available.

We sampled homemade ravioli’s (the Italian part of the dish) filled with black beans and fresh cheese (the infusion), which were served with smoked chipotle and toasted walnut cream sauce. We also had the trio of Colorado lamb chops (true American fare), prepared with brushed cilantro-garlic oil, and grilled exotic mushroom tamale, served with a duo of smoked chipotle and green tomatillo (thus making this a great Mexican infusion).

Of course, we also saved room for the restaurant’s special desserts. If one picture is worth a thousand words, take a look at these great pictures, which serve as mouthwatering invitations to a rare dining experience.

EDUARDO DE SAN ANGEL—located at 2822 East Commercial Blvd. (954-772-4731) in Fort Lauderdale, features Mexican-infused international cuisine.

By Charles Marcanetti

December 2011

Posted on

Fra Diavolo

Just south of the University/Commercial intersection on the east side of the road is a restaurant that advertises its quality right on the marquee. The sign says Fra Diavolo with four large stars. That sign is an understatement in a marvelously understated masterpiece of an elegant restaurant.

Fra Diavolo is located at 5444 N. University Dr. in Lauderhill (954-746-3132). It is adorably decorated in what can only be described as a “very European motif,” subtle, warm, and inviting so that customers linger for more than a little while.

It’s relatively small, seating roughly eighty people. That is what gives it the intimacy so sorely lacking in most South Florida eateries. Yet, the tables aren’t crowded close to each other to get as many customers as fire codes allow. The restaurant maintains balance and caters to the discerning palate. You would imagine, and with some obvious justification, that the restaurant would make up for the small number of seats with exorbitant prices. If you did, like me, you’d be absolutely wrong. The prices are embarrassingly low for what you receive.

It has been at the same location and under the same ownership for nineteen years. Carol Oliveros rarely takes credit for creating this eatery. She points to her partners and chefs and wait staff as the backbone of the operation. They are clearly critical for their success.

But let’s give credit where credit is due. Carol puts in seven-day weeks (even though the restaurant is closed on Mondays, Carol still has the cleaning, ordering, preparing, and shopping, among other tasks). The result of her care is a smoothly running, effortless to-watch, perfection of an ultra-high quality dining experience – night in and night out.

Please believe me when I say that I am not searching for my favorite adjectives just to show off my command of the language. I am trying, with my limited ability, to get you all to try this place once on my say-so. You will become a customer.

To create the wonderful dishes takes time and Fra Diavolo lets its customers know from the outset so that there is no misunderstanding. Menus state: “Every day at Fra Diavolo, meals are prepared fresh to order. It takes at least 20 to 35 minutes to prepare your entree, so please be patient and enjoy some wine or select from our delicious antipasti.”

No South Florida hustle. No “get ‘em in, get ’em out” attitude. It is just a plain and simple exquisite dining adventure revolving around the recipes of southern Italy, occasionally tempered with northern Italy variations.

I’ve told you about Carol, so let me mention her even more modest husband, Raul Oliveros. He has been cooking for South Florida diners for the past 28 years from Key West to Orlando. He learned the art of cooking by working with several professional European chefs in New York. He started as a dishwasher and worked himself up to a four-star chef. Raul liked the story of Fra Diavolo so much that he decided to name his restaurant after the legendary character (the story is reprinted on its web site: www. fradiavolorestaurant.com). Raul retired (likely exhausted) in 2003.

Finally and clearly not least, the third partner and now head chef is Diego Cruz, who has been cooking in South Florida since 1985. In 1999, after working for Raul at another location for eight years, Diego moved to Fra Diavolo. When Raul retired in 2003, Diego became the head chef.

Our waiter for the evening and, I may add, an extraordinary professional, was Alain. We had fun speaking French in this Italian fantasyland. In whatever language, the foods he served us transcended borders, cultures, apprehensions, and all previous experiences. If you are a Barolo aficionado, Fra Diavolo has Fontanafredda, which is, to this critic, the finest wine for this style anywhere in the world. While this is a more expensive wine, Fra Diavolo has wines for every taste and every price point.

We began with cappe di funghi, which are stuffed mushroom caps with seafood. They were decadent – sweet, moist, flavorful, and almost impossible to stop eating. We followed these appetizers with yet more appetizers (why not?), including clams casino baked with pimento, capers, prosciutto, and also clams oregante, which are baked in olive oil, oregano, and bread crumbs. Another appetizer we devoured was mozzarella caprese for two, which is big enough for three or four.

I was “forced” to move on to our main courses and chose to experience genuine (as in NOT a patty) veal forestiera, which is prepared with baby artichoke hearts, mushrooms, lemon, butter, and white wine sauce. We also had veal sorrentina served with eggplant, prosciutto, mozzarella, herbs, white wine, demi-glace sauce, and a touch of marinara. Each of these magnificent dishes was the tenderest of tender veal selections, and while I always hope the baby cows were raised humanely, I review the dishes for my readers who have no objection. If readers have no objection, this is the veal for you.

If you regularly read this column, you know I don’t like chicken breast. In fact, I don’t like white meat in general. My guests sampled the chicken cacciatore prepared with mushrooms, tomatoes, peppers, onions, and garlic.

How could I review Fra Diavolo and not sample shrimp Fra Diavolo? Here it is the sweetest, moistest shrimp available on the daily market and garnished with mussels and clams, basil, garlic, and marinara sauce, hot or mild. Certainly, this dish is worthy to carry the restaurant’s name.

Lastly, DESSERT! Have each one — PLEASE.

 

Carol bakes everything on the premises and, if she wrote a dessert recipe book, it would be a best seller for decades to come. Do NOT miss dessert. The menu includes Carol’s whiskey cake, cannoli, spumoni, and Italian cheesecake, among other offerings.

Fra Diavolo is my newest frequent Italian restaurant. It is sure to be yours as well.

BY Charles Marcanetti

June 2011

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Coco Asian Bistro & Bar

Sometimes, in a world full of glamour for the sake of glamour and glitter to shine away the emptiness of reality, I come across a truly remarkable eatery. Coco Asian Bistro & Bar is just such a place. While it is gorgeous in an understated way, with no detail overlooked and quality even where most people would never expect, it is also the clear leader in Asian Fusion fare. The food is so far above the competition, it is safe to say there is no competition.

In no given order: the Coconut Soup is the absolute best I have ever had…anywhere. The Rack of Lamb and the Filet Mignon were so tender as to seem unreal. The Chilean Sea Bass was so sweet you’d think it was candy and the Duck Breast was succulent to the point of decadence.

Let’s start at the very beginning. Our waiter, destined to be a famous clothing designer, was Yord, a young, wonderfully polite and efficient individual who comes from the same small town in Thailand as owner, Michael Ponluang. With them, came some of the most scrumptious recipes in all of Asian cooking. Let me give you a little background on Ponluang, owner and executive chef. He has traveled the world, learning and teaching elegant Thai food preparation. In 1980,Chef Ponluang moved to Fort Lauderdale and, to the delight of their patrons, he served as a chef at the Lighthouse Point Yacht Club. In 1991, he opened the successful Coral Springs restaurant Thai Pepper, which he owned for 15 years. Michael has also served as a Thai food instructor at Chef Jean-Pierre’s Cooking School and he has studied at a sushi academy in Venice,California. He opened this masterpiece in April 2006.

He decided to give his patrons choices in spice intensity. Most of the foods are served with two or three sauces ranging from the mild to extreme Asian heat. Let me explain: Latin heat is hot and stays hot(think chili),but Asian heat is hot and dissipates quickly (think wasabi). So, please experiment.

I always start my Asian dining with some warm Sake… here they serve only the finest, extra premium Sake, which means no matter how much one drinks, it holds its flavor and body. I know that’s true because I always try to see how long it will take before the flavor changes. I never win and I love that I lose.

When I’m in Paris,I usually make one complete meal of Vietnamese Fresh Rolls.

It seems the Vietnamese –French really know how to blend the ingredients perfectly and until now, I haven’t met anyone who can do it as well, or even better. Chef Michael’s recipe surpasses even the finest Paris has to offer. His consists of Cooked Shrimp, Imitation Crab meat, Cucumbers, Bean Sprouts, Lettuce, Rice Noodles and Basil wrapped in Thin Rice Paper and served with a Sweet Chili Sauce. I easily could have made a meal of this but I wanted to sample so many other delicacies, I forced myself to be moderate.

I also had the Papaya Salad prepared with Shrimp,Soft Shell Crab,Dried Shrimp,Shredded Green Papaya (very rare and incredibly fantastic), Carrots, String Beans, Lime Juice and Tomato. This treat is like no other we have recently encountered and, if you choose this dish, you’ll be raving about it as well.

I devoured the Conch and Octopus Sunomono, which consists of Sliced Conch, Octopus and Cucumbers in Sweet Vinegar. You will also.

I mentioned three remarkable main dishes already, and I add to that the Pad Thai for two reasons: I was morally obligated to sample a truly traditional dish from Chef Michael’s homeland, and I love rice noodles. It was wonderful and truly authentic.

I cannot and will not stop bragging about this place. It is sure to impress you and your guests. Chef Michael and his great staff are sure to instill in you a desire to return, and I predict, you will.

By Charles Marcanetti

[October 2009]

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Casa Tequila

It’s 1958, a small West Coast studio band quickly records a song with only one word in it, and for the next 16 weeks, most of which were at number 1 on the charts, America listened to the Champs’ smash hit, Tequila!

Now, today, I offer you all one word to brighten your lunch or dinner, and no, I am not saying you should drink your meal, I am saying the word is “Tequila!” I am recommending the Casa Tequila in Coral Springs (and, if the other Casa Tequilas are just as good, they will also be a delight for you).

As with so many Mexican restaurants, customers dine in a party-like atmosphere. There’s upbeat music playing, the décor is “happy” and the dining floor is bright but not overpowering. The entire eatery is spotlessly clean and there is plenty of room between tables, so there’s no claustrophobia, clamoring, or overhearing your neighbors.

Casa Tequila has a great mixed drink menu and they absolutely know how to prepare each one expertly (especially the ones with, shall I say it, tequila). Being a rebel though, I had the Mojito (rum based) and it was delicious.

Our waiter for the evening was Ever, who was ever-present and ever invisible; a perfect blend. He helped us understand what each dish was and what degree of spiciness each had (though each dish can be adjusted to suit each patron’s pallet). Casa Tequila makes several soups “to order” and “from scratch” and with that boast I decided to put them to the test. I ordered the Seafood Soup, which is made with shrimp, scallops, crab legs, fish, octopus, and vegetables, served in a mellow briny-broth with fresh tomatoes, onions, and cilantro. It was perfect.

I ordered the Ceviche Salad made with shrimp cooked in fresh lime juice with onion, cilantro, tomatoes, and mango. I love Ceviche. Casa Tequila’s is properly called a salad because it is thin, cool, and crisp. You will want to drink the remaining liquid (I did) and, since it is light, there will still be plenty of room for the “real” food.

Our waiter, Ever, next recommended the fresh Guacamole. I thought fresh meant made with avocado bought that day. Actually it does, but at Casa Tequila it also means created right before your eyes, at your table, using whole avocados, tomatoes, cilantro, onions, fresh lime juice, and other spices prepared as entertainment much like a Hibachi chef would do in a Japanese restaurant. Thoroughly enjoyable, titillating multiple senses.

The Taco Salad, which is a traditional Mexican starter, is made in a crispy flour tortilla shell with ground beef, chicken, or picadillo and we all loved it.

I can also recommend the steak or chicken fajitas made in a sizzling skillet and served with sautéed vegetables.

We tried (and loved) the Dos Amigos which is either grilled carne asada or pollo asada and comes accompanied with four shrimps wrapped in bacon. Of course they come with rice, beans, and sour cream.

Since I was reviewing a Mexican restaurant I tried those dishes that are called traditional and the Quesa Tacos (3) made with melted cheese, carne asada, specially seasoned, served with whole beans and homemade hot sauce is fabulous.

My confession for the month is that I love burritos. I eat them all the time. If they were not good I would tell you. The burritos at Casa Tequila are wonderful. They are somewhat spiced and, unlike the bland burritos served in many so-called Mexican restaurants (to accommodate the American tastes, or, so we’re told), these have a little kick. To me, if you are offering a certain type of food it should be offered as it is meant to be made, not simplified for this pallet or that pallet. It is the job of the chef to educate the customer. It will result in a loyal following and grateful diners. I am completely sold on the ones offered here.

My standard burrito fare is Burrito Relleno made using a soft flour tortilla filled with chile relleno, rice, and beans, and covered with enchilada sauce of chopped tomatoes then sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. You should try different ones even though these are my favorites. Go ahead, experiment. Gamble. Venture into unexplored territory. The burritos are very special and your experience will be worth it.

The desserts are a fabulous end to an enjoyable evening, whether it’s the apple chimichanga, flan, or fried ice cream, your sweet tooth will be sated. I will return to Casa Tequila whenever I am anywhere near the Magnolia Shoppes in Coral Springs. Join me. Tequila!

Casa Tequila, 9617 Westview Drive, Coral Springs, FL 954-340-4611.

By Charles Marcanetti

[November 2016]

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The Addison

A Boca Raton Fine Dining Establishment

There are only three real choices in fine dining:

1. Go to an upscale eatery and select from its sophisticated menu and get served by professional wait staff in a well-appointed environment.

2. Hire a gourmet private chef to come to your home, club or facility to oversee, create and prepare the evening’s fare, subject to your choices, whims and fancies.

3. Do it yourself at home, if you have the talent, ability and everything you need.

What if, though, you were to desire hosting an affair with dozens of people, or even hundreds of people, and you wanted haute cuisine with all the concomitant attention, nuance and subtlety of a private, intimate gathering? What if the affair was with just two of you and you wanted what amounted to a private chef for the evening? Does a facility exist that accommodates private parties from two to 400, which can serve dozens of secluded small dining areas and relatively large functions such as balls, bar mitzvahs, and weddings in a manner equal to or better than any strictly restaurant or any strictly catering facility?

Is there an eatery that is a haute cuisine catering facility and an intimate reservations-only restaurant, where not only the few restaurant patrons are spoiled with near-perfect everything, but the folks attending the larger functions are equally treated and it is all done at the same time?

The Addison (notice – it doesn’t say “restaurant,” “catering” or “banquet”) is the ONLY very upscale, very private, very near-perfect facility where, based on the reservations you make, you will be secluded in an area where you and your one guest will feel as if you rented an entire restaurant for the evening or you and your many guests will believe that you have entered into a bygone era of the decadent, quiet luxury of old Florida. It is located at 2 East Camino Real in Boca Raton (telephone: 561-372-0568).

You enter the Addison through a courtyard embraced by two huge banyan trees that are hundreds of years old. They cover just enough of the night sky to make one feel safe from the elements and reveal just enough of the night sky to allow for dream-like fantasies. Daytime functions are shaded by these protective giants, opening to a courtyard within a courtyard for exchanging vows or sliding gracefully across the grounds to the sounds of a Viennese waltz provided by your orchestra (or any sounds by any orchestra you retain).

There are comparisons to be made. Sundy House in Delray Beach is beautiful and brings its patrons to 1930s’ Florida. Vizcaya in Miami and the 55-room Flagler Museum in Palm Beach evoke the same yesteryear spirit. But in Boca Raton, in fact in all of Florida, the only such facility is the Addison, offering the finest in luxury surroundings, serviced by consummate professionals, with very haute cuisine.

Several years ago, I reviewed a gourmet, reservations-only restaurant in Boca Raton called Six Tables. That wonderful eatery caters to, as the name implies, only six tables per evening, thus making the guests feel as if they have a private chef (who chooses and creates the evening’s menu). Then there are catering facilities/ restaurant combinations such as Brooks in Boca Raton. There they allow for diners on an à la carte basis, as well as catered parties. The Addison model, however, combines the best of all worlds without sacrificing one iota, one degree of magic.

If you want to surround yourself with what once was, dine on “never tasted tastes like this,” and be treated like there’s no one else, then whether you’re two or 400 in number and you’re willing to accept the price of profound luxury, call the Addison.

It is fruitless to describe our menu for the evening because each item was prepared specifically to our desires. Each of the main courses — the chicken, the fish and the filet mignon — were, not surprisingly, exactly as ordered. The opening salads were gigantic and delicious. The desserts were amazing. The coffee was fresh and a great closing to a rare and very special evening.

Patrick Duffy (executive chef ), Cody Tomczyk (event operations manager) and Jessica Brownstein (event captain) were as gracious as if we entered their own home, but there was never so much as a hint of stuffiness. We were made to feel like royalty and I firmly believe that everyone is treated just the same.

You will not be going to the Addison for a casual dinner or a quick night out. But you will remember each and every visit, whether it’s for your anniversary, Valentine’s Day, special birthday or a large holiday event. The size of the party doesn’t matter, only the goal — perfection.

By Charles Marcanetti

[August 2011]
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Brio

HAVING RE-VISITED MY ARTICLES for the past several years, I noticed that I generally inserted negative undertones to chain or franchise restaurant reviews. I suppose that I am a victim of my own naiveté. I believe that stock recipes in a cookie-cutter decorated restaurant, with a talented but formulaically trained wait staff, cannot be great.

I was and am, quite simply, wrong. While many such restaurants really disappoint, there are some that pleasantly surprise. A case in point is this month’s delightful eatery: Brio Tuscan Grille, with many restaurants around this nation, including one right here in Boca Raton (5050 Town Center Cir #239 at The Shops at Boca Center, 561-392-3777).

When we entered the restaurant, I bumped into an old friend, Steve, who is and should be climbing the management ladder. He promptly seated us in a quiet spot (the restaurant is quite large, so quiet is relative). Next, Jenny, one of the most gracious and professional wait persons we have ever encountered, took command of arranging an ideally timed food delivery, with one perfect dish following another at just the right pace to allow for an enjoyable, non-rushed dinner that gave us time for conversation and comfortable dining.

We began with “primi” (first – duh) and experienced an array of rich but light appetizers: roasted garlic, spinach and artichoke dip, served bubbling hot with Parmesan flatbread. Next up was the chicken and chorizo-stuffed peppers, baby bell peppers stuffed with chicken, chorizo, Parmigiano-Reggiano and topped with Fontina and pesto breadcrumbs, baked until golden brown. Finally, I loved the spicy shrimp with eggplant, pan-seared shrimp in a black pepper cream sauce over Romano-crusted eggplant.

Forgetting the fact that I could stand to lose thirty pounds, I “forced” myself to sample some truly exquisite bruschettas and flatbread. We had bruschetta quattro, which is a taste of four of the bruschettas, all housemade, and then we jumped into the full orders of roasted red pepper bruschetta with fresh basil, Parmigiano-Reggiano and a balsamic drizzle, then roasted tomato and ricotta bruschetta, with fresh basil and a balsamic drizzle, and margherita flatbread made with fresh mozzarella, vine-ripened tomatoes and fresh basil. But my absolute favorites were blackened shrimp and chorizo flatbread made with smoked gouda, basil pesto, green onions, roasted pepper relish and fresh cilantro, and sausage, pepperoni and ricotta flatbread, which is topped with fresh mozzarella and house-made tomato sauce.

The reason I’m listing many more items than usual is that I truly enjoyed these dishes. I’m trying to convey my comfort level by encouraging you to feel confident eating any of the many wonderful creations appearing through – out this extensive menu.

Some other excellent choices are: lasagna Bolognese al forno, oven-baked and layered with authentic Bolognese meat sauce, alfredo, ricotta and mozzarella, or (in my case, AND) chicken Milanese, which is crispy Romano chicken with herb pasta, fresh mozzarella and housemade pomodoro sauce. I love shrimp, so, of course, I had seared shrimp risotto served with fresh basil, peperonata, fire-roasted tomatoes and a pesto drizzle, and grilled shrimp and orzo, which are spicy jumbo shrimp served with orzo, grilled asparagus, zucchini, tomatoes and lemon vinaigrette.

One house specialty is Brio crab and shrimp cakes, which are lump crab and Gulf shrimp cakes with roasted vegetables and creamy horseradish. It should be a specialty, as it was marvelous.

We had a phenomenal meat course of beef and veal where each bite was tender, moist and quite succulent. Try the artichoke-crusted beef medallions or beef medallions with shrimp scampi. The chicken under the brick, grilled salmon and roasted lamb chops artistically represented the chicken, salmon and lamb dishes.

Here’s a rather humble admission from the managers: Brio uses quality, but commercial, pastas. Their strategy is to buy what is best and then to prepare it in a unique way. Homemade pastas could be as good, but if prepared incorrectly or topped with inferior products, it’s a waste. On the other hand, top-quality, store-bought pasta that is handled as a delicacy will always be wonderful. At Brio, all the pastas were so good that I didn’t believe their pedigree, at first.

We closed out our evening with an array of con – science-considerate desserts (portion-controlled), plus one absolutely NOT portion-controlled chocolate cake and some rich and satisfying coffees. Brio is a local place with real Italian treats serving hungry people in a very happy, bright atmosphere. The prices are very reasonable and the parking is easy. I know this will be a regular dining spot for all of us.

By Charles Marcanetti

[March 2012]

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