From dirt supply line to six lanes of bustle and business

Drivers regularly travel roadways like “telegraph road” or “post road” without giving the names a second thought. Yet, road names often have historical roots with interesting stories behind them. South Florida’s Military Trail is one with a history older than Florida’s statehood.

Today’s Military Trail is a 46-mile, north and south, commuter route running from Jupiter to Pompano Beach, teeming with modern development and prone to congestion. It’s a far cry from its origins as a trail blazed by Tennessee and Missouri military volunteers during the Second Seminole War (1835- 1842).

Well before Florida became a U.S. territory in 1821, the Seminole people were being driven out by settlers moving into their homeland. Conflicts naturally ensued, eventually leading to the three Seminole Wars between 1817 and 1858.

The second war erupted after the U.S. government tried to forcefully remove all Seminoles from Florida.

Seminoles were adept at guerrilla warfare and used their knowledge of the Everglades to their advantage. Outnumbered and outgunned, however, by 1842, according to britannica.com, “some 3,000 to 4,000 Seminoles had been resettled, and only a few hundred remained. The Armed Occupation Act of 1842 promoted white settlement in Florida and the Second Seminole War was declared over on August 14, 1842.”

Toward the beginning of the second conflict, President Andrew Jackson dispatched General Thomas Jesup to assume control of the Florida troops. The military began building a string of posts in South Florida, starting with Fort Dallas (today’s Miami) in 1836, then Fort Jupiter in 1838.

Jesup ordered 233 Tennessee volunteers to cut a supply trail from Fort Jupiter to the New River in what is now Broward County.

The group was led by Major William Lauderdale, a longtime colleague of Andrew Jackson and fellow Tennessean. Volunteers followed the dryer ground of a coastal pine ridge, cutting a 63-mile path through the hammocks to the river in just four days. There, they established the garrison eventually named Fort Lauderdale. That path, originally known as “Lauderdale’s Route,” was used for military transport during the next two decades of the Seminole conflict and eventually dubbed “Military Trail.”

After the Seminole wars ended, the trail continued to see foot traffic and passenger and freight movement via covered wagons. Eventually, the trail slipped into relative disuse, until Henry Flagler put his mark on Florida in the late 19th century.

Flagler’s East Coast Railway and the resort hotels he built along the coast put South Florida on the map. Soon, rampant land speculation took hold across South Florida, which included the area along Military Trail. By the early 20th century, moneyed Northerners were lured by sales-literature rife with praise for what was otherwise wilderness and swampland. They arrived first by train and eventually by automobile, all wanting their piece of Florida.

By the 1920s, coastal towns like Palm Beach and Lake Worth were blossoming. To handle the influx of people and their automobiles, better roads were needed. Along with new roads, improvements were made to existing routes like Military Trail. Some sections along Military Trail were paved as early as 1923. Other stretches were improved, often by hand, under Franklin Roosevelt’s WPA in the 1930s.

Yet, up to WWII, much of South Florida remained undeveloped and lengths of Military Trail still unimproved, mainly serving area farms and ranches. Rather than residents and vacationers, herds of roaming cattle filled the landscape.

Post-WWII, another real estate boom brought an even greater influx of arrivals than in the 1920s. Palm Beach became one of the fastest-growing metro areas in the country, with its population doubling in the 1950s. Military Trail grew into a transportation artery as Palm Beach and other coastal cities spread westward.

Amazingly, even into the 1960s, there were sections of Military Trail that were still two-lanes and even dirt roadway. Delray Beach, not much more than a sleepy retirement village in the 1960s, contained a dirt length of the road flanked by farmland.

In Boca Raton, Lynn University began life in 1962, astride a dirt stretch. As late as 1979, Military Trail in Boynton Beach remained a single-lane dirt path mainly used by area farms and ranches. Most everything west was still agricultural. In 1980, a shopping center with a Kmart being built west of Military Trail was hailed as a big deal. A small stretch of single-lane pavement designated as “Old Military Trail” still exists in Boynton Beach.

Military Trail experienced its own growing pains alongside South Florida’s exponential growth in the 1980s. Now often at six lanes, it’s hard to even envision the wilderness trail troops carved by hand nearly two centuries earlier. And, while shorter, today’s 46 miles still follow the path soldiers marched from Fort Jupiter to Fort Dallas and serves as a reminder of a somber chapter in Florida’s history.

STAYCATIONING

in Florida’s historic hotels

Staying at a historic hotel is a unique experience filled with old-world charm that transports you to another era. You can enjoy that experience at one of the fourteen Florida hotels that are part of the National Trust for Historic Preservation’s Historic Hotels of America.

A hotel must be at least 50 years old and utilize historic accommodations to be included in the prestigious program. The hotel must also be designated as a historic landmark or eligible for listing on the National Register of Historic Places.

Classic Florida style from the 19th and early 20th centuries pervades in hotels like the jazz-age Colony Club Hotel in Delray Beach. Opened in 1926, its gracious lobby still contains original iron chandeliers, terrazzo floors, and even a manually operated elevator. There, you can lounge in one of 50 pieces of 1920s wicker furniture or head out to the huge veranda to enjoy coastal breezes. Classic cocktails await at the Colony Porch Bar or you shop several boutiques inside. When the waves call, the Club has 250 feet of private beach with complimentary cabanas and chaises for guests.

Across the state, in St. Petersburg, the Don CeSar, affectionately known as the “Pink Palace,” is a Mediterranean-style building opened in 1928. It’s hosted such notables as F. Scott Fitzgerald, Al Capone, and Franklin Roosevelt. During much of the 20th century, the Don CeSar was conscripted into military service as an Air Force convalescent center and eventually a Veteran’s Administration office. It was saved from an uncertain fate and returned to its former grandeur as a hotel in the 1970s after a $7.5 million restoration.

Casa Monica Hotel circa 1900. (Wikimedia Commons)

St. Augustine’s landmark Casa Monica Hotel opened in 1888 and was purchased by railroad magnate Henry Flagler soon after its opening. The five-story Moorish-revival hotel boasts 100-foot towers capped with red tile and an arched carriage entrance showing 19th-century roots. Inside, take time to admire the gold-leafed archways and hand-painted Italian tile. Its 138 guest rooms have Spanish-style furniture, including wrought-iron four-poster beds and mahogany tables. The Casa Monica Hotel was reopened as a historic hotel in 1999 and soon after hosted the King and Queen of Spain. Today, it’s considered one of the finest boutique hotels in the country and St. Augustine’s only AAA Four-Diamond property.

Near the center of Miami Beach’s Art Deco Historic District sits the 14-story National Hotel. When it opened in 1939, the National Hotel was considered one of the grandest hotels on Miami Beach; today, the authentically restored Art Deco property stands as a testament to Miami’s golden era. Inside are treasures like hand-picked Deco-era furnishings, terrazzo floors, and a massive original oak bar, the centerpiece of the hotels’ Blues Bar. You can also enjoy jazz and other live entertainment or take a dip in the 250-foot palm-lined infinity pool. For more information on these or any of the other Historic Hotels of America, visit HistoricHotels.org.