Tag: dining

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Ethos Greek Bistro

Ethos means “character” in Greek. For restaurateur George Pappas, owner of Ethos Greek Bistro in the Promenade at Coconut Creek, it also represents integrity, “your guiding belief.” When Pappas opened Ethos in May 2012 he was responding to his ethos and the needs of the local market. He wanted a restaurant that served fresh and healthful food, in a timely and friendly manner, at a fair price. When I dined there recently I got to see for myself.

My friends and I ordered a variety of dishes – from spreads and salads to lamb and fish dishes – accompanied by elegant libations and finished with dessert, baked in-house.

Standouts are the Rebel Lamb, dips, Shrimp Saganaki (baked in fresh tomato and garlic, topped with barrel-aged feta), Zucchini Croquettes with tzatziki (yogurt and cucumber spread), and chargrilled octopus.

A popular appetizer is dolmades (traditional stuffed grape leaves). Pappas said the staff hand rolls 60,000 a year. My table decided instead to try the spread sampler, which proved to be a good choice. It was served with crusty bread fresh from the oven that my friend Beth called “the perfect dipper.”

The appetizer includes four dips: refreshing tzatziki, creamy feta, tasty hummus, and “eggplant smash” (which resembled its Middle Eastern cousin, baba ganoush) with feta, roasted red peppers, and walnuts. Each of us had a different favorite in the flight of spreads.

My friend Steve’s surf and turf comprised of shrimp saganaki – (delicious, and also available as a small plate) and lamb chops. Steve ordered them to be cooked medium and he loved them, although the piece I tried was a bit rare.

The Ethos Platter has a bit of everything: Greek salad, spinach rice, roasted potatoes, grilled pita, and yogurt sauce with a choice of vegetable or protein, such as chicken, gyro, pork tenderloin, or kefte (lamb meatballs). My dinner companions ordered Faroe Islands Salmon and Bronzini (described on the menu as Greek sea bass) as their entrees, which they enjoyed.

My dish was Rebel Lamb, which might be unfamiliar to readers (but well worth trying) even though it has been around for more than a century. The dish goes back to the Ottoman Rule when Greeks hid in the mountains and would steal a lamb for food. They needed to cook it, but building a fire brings smoke that will reveal their hiding spot. So the rebels developed a slow-cooking method of sealing the meat and other ingredients in a clay pot and burying it with hot coals, allowing it to braise slowly. Today, Ethos uses New Zealand lamb and parchment paper, baked in an oven to get the same effect. Braising tenderizes the meat but I did not expect it to be this tender and have so much flavor – it was perfection.

The full drink menu has everything from wine and martinis to the classic Greek retsina and signature drinks with a Greek twist. Try the Mykonos Mule or Mastiha Cosmo made with a Greek liquor called Mastiha (pronounced mas-tee-ka or mas-tee-ha), which is made from the sap of a tree on the coast of Chios. I was surprised by its refreshing flavor and my friend Beth found it to be the perfect complement to the meal – in fact, she said it was her favorite part. A lighter version of ouzo, Mastiha’s licorice base is quieted by the other ingredients in mixed drinks.

The goal is to have the food served within seven to eight minutes of ordering lunch; 12 minutes at dinner. So you might not wait once you’re seated, but be prepared to wait a bit for a table on Friday or Saturday nights. Being in an open mall, Ethos attracts many shoppers. But the good part is you can walk around the Promenade while waiting.

Desserts are made in-house. “You can have an amazing meal, but if there is no wow at the end, it won’t be as memorable,” Pappas said. “Dessert must wow.”

Sweets include baklava, and lesser-known Greek favorites Ekmek and Galakto Fantastico, both made with phyllo dough and custard. My favorite was the exquisite Triple Layer Cheesecake, dressed with walnuts, shredded phyllo, and topped with Belgian chocolate ganache. Wow indeed.

Within the Promenade, Pappas also owns Ciao Cucina and Bar, as well as another Ethos location in Wilton Manors. He has a business plan to open six more restaurants in South Florida in the next five years.

“When you try to deliver food that is healthful, fresh, and tasty, coupled with good service at a fair price, often something will be lacking,” said Pappas, who was raised in Crete. “It is hard to put it all together. We work very hard to accomplish that here.”

No Zorba Here

Traditional Greek restaurants often make me think of waiters dancing the syrtaki, shoulder to shoulder, and breaking plates (on purpose) with a festive “Opa!” Owner George Pappas didn’t want his establishment to be “that Greek restaurant.”

There is no blue and white Greek-style lettering, no dancing on the tables, no breaking dishes, no scattered napkins, and no waiters dancing with their hands on each other’s shoulders in a line. (I picture Anthony Quinn in Zorba the Greek and immediately hear the movie’s iconic theme.)

Pappas, 45, is proud to offer both traditional and modernized food and drink in a minimalist setting. He sees this more as catering to a local market – from Aventura to Boca – that wants a menu offering fresh and healthy dishes.

by Linda Brockman

March 2018

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Fra Diavolo

Just south of the University/Commercial intersection on the east side of the road is a restaurant that advertises its quality right on the marquee. The sign says Fra Diavolo with four large stars. That sign is an understatement in a marvelously understated masterpiece of an elegant restaurant.

Fra Diavolo is located at 5444 N. University Dr. in Lauderhill (954-746-3132). It is adorably decorated in what can only be described as a “very European motif,” subtle, warm, and inviting so that customers linger for more than a little while.

It’s relatively small, seating roughly eighty people. That is what gives it the intimacy so sorely lacking in most South Florida eateries. Yet, the tables aren’t crowded close to each other to get as many customers as fire codes allow. The restaurant maintains balance and caters to the discerning palate. You would imagine, and with some obvious justification, that the restaurant would make up for the small number of seats with exorbitant prices. If you did, like me, you’d be absolutely wrong. The prices are embarrassingly low for what you receive.

It has been at the same location and under the same ownership for nineteen years. Carol Oliveros rarely takes credit for creating this eatery. She points to her partners and chefs and wait staff as the backbone of the operation. They are clearly critical for their success.

But let’s give credit where credit is due. Carol puts in seven-day weeks (even though the restaurant is closed on Mondays, Carol still has the cleaning, ordering, preparing, and shopping, among other tasks). The result of her care is a smoothly running, effortless to-watch, perfection of an ultra-high quality dining experience – night in and night out.

Please believe me when I say that I am not searching for my favorite adjectives just to show off my command of the language. I am trying, with my limited ability, to get you all to try this place once on my say-so. You will become a customer.

To create the wonderful dishes takes time and Fra Diavolo lets its customers know from the outset so that there is no misunderstanding. Menus state: “Every day at Fra Diavolo, meals are prepared fresh to order. It takes at least 20 to 35 minutes to prepare your entree, so please be patient and enjoy some wine or select from our delicious antipasti.”

No South Florida hustle. No “get ‘em in, get ’em out” attitude. It is just a plain and simple exquisite dining adventure revolving around the recipes of southern Italy, occasionally tempered with northern Italy variations.

I’ve told you about Carol, so let me mention her even more modest husband, Raul Oliveros. He has been cooking for South Florida diners for the past 28 years from Key West to Orlando. He learned the art of cooking by working with several professional European chefs in New York. He started as a dishwasher and worked himself up to a four-star chef. Raul liked the story of Fra Diavolo so much that he decided to name his restaurant after the legendary character (the story is reprinted on its web site: www. fradiavolorestaurant.com). Raul retired (likely exhausted) in 2003.

Finally and clearly not least, the third partner and now head chef is Diego Cruz, who has been cooking in South Florida since 1985. In 1999, after working for Raul at another location for eight years, Diego moved to Fra Diavolo. When Raul retired in 2003, Diego became the head chef.

Our waiter for the evening and, I may add, an extraordinary professional, was Alain. We had fun speaking French in this Italian fantasyland. In whatever language, the foods he served us transcended borders, cultures, apprehensions, and all previous experiences. If you are a Barolo aficionado, Fra Diavolo has Fontanafredda, which is, to this critic, the finest wine for this style anywhere in the world. While this is a more expensive wine, Fra Diavolo has wines for every taste and every price point.

We began with cappe di funghi, which are stuffed mushroom caps with seafood. They were decadent – sweet, moist, flavorful, and almost impossible to stop eating. We followed these appetizers with yet more appetizers (why not?), including clams casino baked with pimento, capers, prosciutto, and also clams oregante, which are baked in olive oil, oregano, and bread crumbs. Another appetizer we devoured was mozzarella caprese for two, which is big enough for three or four.

I was “forced” to move on to our main courses and chose to experience genuine (as in NOT a patty) veal forestiera, which is prepared with baby artichoke hearts, mushrooms, lemon, butter, and white wine sauce. We also had veal sorrentina served with eggplant, prosciutto, mozzarella, herbs, white wine, demi-glace sauce, and a touch of marinara. Each of these magnificent dishes was the tenderest of tender veal selections, and while I always hope the baby cows were raised humanely, I review the dishes for my readers who have no objection. If readers have no objection, this is the veal for you.

If you regularly read this column, you know I don’t like chicken breast. In fact, I don’t like white meat in general. My guests sampled the chicken cacciatore prepared with mushrooms, tomatoes, peppers, onions, and garlic.

How could I review Fra Diavolo and not sample shrimp Fra Diavolo? Here it is the sweetest, moistest shrimp available on the daily market and garnished with mussels and clams, basil, garlic, and marinara sauce, hot or mild. Certainly, this dish is worthy to carry the restaurant’s name.

Lastly, DESSERT! Have each one — PLEASE.

 

Carol bakes everything on the premises and, if she wrote a dessert recipe book, it would be a best seller for decades to come. Do NOT miss dessert. The menu includes Carol’s whiskey cake, cannoli, spumoni, and Italian cheesecake, among other offerings.

Fra Diavolo is my newest frequent Italian restaurant. It is sure to be yours as well.

BY Charles Marcanetti

June 2011

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Coco Asian Bistro & Bar

Sometimes, in a world full of glamour for the sake of glamour and glitter to shine away the emptiness of reality, I come across a truly remarkable eatery. Coco Asian Bistro & Bar is just such a place. While it is gorgeous in an understated way, with no detail overlooked and quality even where most people would never expect, it is also the clear leader in Asian Fusion fare. The food is so far above the competition, it is safe to say there is no competition.

In no given order: the Coconut Soup is the absolute best I have ever had…anywhere. The Rack of Lamb and the Filet Mignon were so tender as to seem unreal. The Chilean Sea Bass was so sweet you’d think it was candy and the Duck Breast was succulent to the point of decadence.

Let’s start at the very beginning. Our waiter, destined to be a famous clothing designer, was Yord, a young, wonderfully polite and efficient individual who comes from the same small town in Thailand as owner, Michael Ponluang. With them, came some of the most scrumptious recipes in all of Asian cooking. Let me give you a little background on Ponluang, owner and executive chef. He has traveled the world, learning and teaching elegant Thai food preparation. In 1980,Chef Ponluang moved to Fort Lauderdale and, to the delight of their patrons, he served as a chef at the Lighthouse Point Yacht Club. In 1991, he opened the successful Coral Springs restaurant Thai Pepper, which he owned for 15 years. Michael has also served as a Thai food instructor at Chef Jean-Pierre’s Cooking School and he has studied at a sushi academy in Venice,California. He opened this masterpiece in April 2006.

He decided to give his patrons choices in spice intensity. Most of the foods are served with two or three sauces ranging from the mild to extreme Asian heat. Let me explain: Latin heat is hot and stays hot(think chili),but Asian heat is hot and dissipates quickly (think wasabi). So, please experiment.

I always start my Asian dining with some warm Sake… here they serve only the finest, extra premium Sake, which means no matter how much one drinks, it holds its flavor and body. I know that’s true because I always try to see how long it will take before the flavor changes. I never win and I love that I lose.

When I’m in Paris,I usually make one complete meal of Vietnamese Fresh Rolls.

It seems the Vietnamese –French really know how to blend the ingredients perfectly and until now, I haven’t met anyone who can do it as well, or even better. Chef Michael’s recipe surpasses even the finest Paris has to offer. His consists of Cooked Shrimp, Imitation Crab meat, Cucumbers, Bean Sprouts, Lettuce, Rice Noodles and Basil wrapped in Thin Rice Paper and served with a Sweet Chili Sauce. I easily could have made a meal of this but I wanted to sample so many other delicacies, I forced myself to be moderate.

I also had the Papaya Salad prepared with Shrimp,Soft Shell Crab,Dried Shrimp,Shredded Green Papaya (very rare and incredibly fantastic), Carrots, String Beans, Lime Juice and Tomato. This treat is like no other we have recently encountered and, if you choose this dish, you’ll be raving about it as well.

I devoured the Conch and Octopus Sunomono, which consists of Sliced Conch, Octopus and Cucumbers in Sweet Vinegar. You will also.

I mentioned three remarkable main dishes already, and I add to that the Pad Thai for two reasons: I was morally obligated to sample a truly traditional dish from Chef Michael’s homeland, and I love rice noodles. It was wonderful and truly authentic.

I cannot and will not stop bragging about this place. It is sure to impress you and your guests. Chef Michael and his great staff are sure to instill in you a desire to return, and I predict, you will.

By Charles Marcanetti

[October 2009]

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Casa Tequila

It’s 1958, a small West Coast studio band quickly records a song with only one word in it, and for the next 16 weeks, most of which were at number 1 on the charts, America listened to the Champs’ smash hit, Tequila!

Now, today, I offer you all one word to brighten your lunch or dinner, and no, I am not saying you should drink your meal, I am saying the word is “Tequila!” I am recommending the Casa Tequila in Coral Springs (and, if the other Casa Tequilas are just as good, they will also be a delight for you).

As with so many Mexican restaurants, customers dine in a party-like atmosphere. There’s upbeat music playing, the décor is “happy” and the dining floor is bright but not overpowering. The entire eatery is spotlessly clean and there is plenty of room between tables, so there’s no claustrophobia, clamoring, or overhearing your neighbors.

Casa Tequila has a great mixed drink menu and they absolutely know how to prepare each one expertly (especially the ones with, shall I say it, tequila). Being a rebel though, I had the Mojito (rum based) and it was delicious.

Our waiter for the evening was Ever, who was ever-present and ever invisible; a perfect blend. He helped us understand what each dish was and what degree of spiciness each had (though each dish can be adjusted to suit each patron’s pallet). Casa Tequila makes several soups “to order” and “from scratch” and with that boast I decided to put them to the test. I ordered the Seafood Soup, which is made with shrimp, scallops, crab legs, fish, octopus, and vegetables, served in a mellow briny-broth with fresh tomatoes, onions, and cilantro. It was perfect.

I ordered the Ceviche Salad made with shrimp cooked in fresh lime juice with onion, cilantro, tomatoes, and mango. I love Ceviche. Casa Tequila’s is properly called a salad because it is thin, cool, and crisp. You will want to drink the remaining liquid (I did) and, since it is light, there will still be plenty of room for the “real” food.

Our waiter, Ever, next recommended the fresh Guacamole. I thought fresh meant made with avocado bought that day. Actually it does, but at Casa Tequila it also means created right before your eyes, at your table, using whole avocados, tomatoes, cilantro, onions, fresh lime juice, and other spices prepared as entertainment much like a Hibachi chef would do in a Japanese restaurant. Thoroughly enjoyable, titillating multiple senses.

The Taco Salad, which is a traditional Mexican starter, is made in a crispy flour tortilla shell with ground beef, chicken, or picadillo and we all loved it.

I can also recommend the steak or chicken fajitas made in a sizzling skillet and served with sautéed vegetables.

We tried (and loved) the Dos Amigos which is either grilled carne asada or pollo asada and comes accompanied with four shrimps wrapped in bacon. Of course they come with rice, beans, and sour cream.

Since I was reviewing a Mexican restaurant I tried those dishes that are called traditional and the Quesa Tacos (3) made with melted cheese, carne asada, specially seasoned, served with whole beans and homemade hot sauce is fabulous.

My confession for the month is that I love burritos. I eat them all the time. If they were not good I would tell you. The burritos at Casa Tequila are wonderful. They are somewhat spiced and, unlike the bland burritos served in many so-called Mexican restaurants (to accommodate the American tastes, or, so we’re told), these have a little kick. To me, if you are offering a certain type of food it should be offered as it is meant to be made, not simplified for this pallet or that pallet. It is the job of the chef to educate the customer. It will result in a loyal following and grateful diners. I am completely sold on the ones offered here.

My standard burrito fare is Burrito Relleno made using a soft flour tortilla filled with chile relleno, rice, and beans, and covered with enchilada sauce of chopped tomatoes then sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. You should try different ones even though these are my favorites. Go ahead, experiment. Gamble. Venture into unexplored territory. The burritos are very special and your experience will be worth it.

The desserts are a fabulous end to an enjoyable evening, whether it’s the apple chimichanga, flan, or fried ice cream, your sweet tooth will be sated. I will return to Casa Tequila whenever I am anywhere near the Magnolia Shoppes in Coral Springs. Join me. Tequila!

Casa Tequila, 9617 Westview Drive, Coral Springs, FL 954-340-4611.

By Charles Marcanetti

[November 2016]

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The Addison

A Boca Raton Fine Dining Establishment

There are only three real choices in fine dining:

1. Go to an upscale eatery and select from its sophisticated menu and get served by professional wait staff in a well-appointed environment.

2. Hire a gourmet private chef to come to your home, club or facility to oversee, create and prepare the evening’s fare, subject to your choices, whims and fancies.

3. Do it yourself at home, if you have the talent, ability and everything you need.

What if, though, you were to desire hosting an affair with dozens of people, or even hundreds of people, and you wanted haute cuisine with all the concomitant attention, nuance and subtlety of a private, intimate gathering? What if the affair was with just two of you and you wanted what amounted to a private chef for the evening? Does a facility exist that accommodates private parties from two to 400, which can serve dozens of secluded small dining areas and relatively large functions such as balls, bar mitzvahs, and weddings in a manner equal to or better than any strictly restaurant or any strictly catering facility?

Is there an eatery that is a haute cuisine catering facility and an intimate reservations-only restaurant, where not only the few restaurant patrons are spoiled with near-perfect everything, but the folks attending the larger functions are equally treated and it is all done at the same time?

The Addison (notice – it doesn’t say “restaurant,” “catering” or “banquet”) is the ONLY very upscale, very private, very near-perfect facility where, based on the reservations you make, you will be secluded in an area where you and your one guest will feel as if you rented an entire restaurant for the evening or you and your many guests will believe that you have entered into a bygone era of the decadent, quiet luxury of old Florida. It is located at 2 East Camino Real in Boca Raton (telephone: 561-372-0568).

You enter the Addison through a courtyard embraced by two huge banyan trees that are hundreds of years old. They cover just enough of the night sky to make one feel safe from the elements and reveal just enough of the night sky to allow for dream-like fantasies. Daytime functions are shaded by these protective giants, opening to a courtyard within a courtyard for exchanging vows or sliding gracefully across the grounds to the sounds of a Viennese waltz provided by your orchestra (or any sounds by any orchestra you retain).

There are comparisons to be made. Sundy House in Delray Beach is beautiful and brings its patrons to 1930s’ Florida. Vizcaya in Miami and the 55-room Flagler Museum in Palm Beach evoke the same yesteryear spirit. But in Boca Raton, in fact in all of Florida, the only such facility is the Addison, offering the finest in luxury surroundings, serviced by consummate professionals, with very haute cuisine.

Several years ago, I reviewed a gourmet, reservations-only restaurant in Boca Raton called Six Tables. That wonderful eatery caters to, as the name implies, only six tables per evening, thus making the guests feel as if they have a private chef (who chooses and creates the evening’s menu). Then there are catering facilities/ restaurant combinations such as Brooks in Boca Raton. There they allow for diners on an à la carte basis, as well as catered parties. The Addison model, however, combines the best of all worlds without sacrificing one iota, one degree of magic.

If you want to surround yourself with what once was, dine on “never tasted tastes like this,” and be treated like there’s no one else, then whether you’re two or 400 in number and you’re willing to accept the price of profound luxury, call the Addison.

It is fruitless to describe our menu for the evening because each item was prepared specifically to our desires. Each of the main courses — the chicken, the fish and the filet mignon — were, not surprisingly, exactly as ordered. The opening salads were gigantic and delicious. The desserts were amazing. The coffee was fresh and a great closing to a rare and very special evening.

Patrick Duffy (executive chef ), Cody Tomczyk (event operations manager) and Jessica Brownstein (event captain) were as gracious as if we entered their own home, but there was never so much as a hint of stuffiness. We were made to feel like royalty and I firmly believe that everyone is treated just the same.

You will not be going to the Addison for a casual dinner or a quick night out. But you will remember each and every visit, whether it’s for your anniversary, Valentine’s Day, special birthday or a large holiday event. The size of the party doesn’t matter, only the goal — perfection.

By Charles Marcanetti

[August 2011]
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