It took almost one thousand years for the vineyards in Burgundy, France,
to become dedicated to specific varieties, and it was the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that became the masters of that fiefdom. When winemaking got started in California, the vintners planted anything and everything that they could lay their hands on. Among those early vintners was a faux Hungarian Count, Agoston Haraszthy, who is often credited with bringing to California most of the grape vines that have found a home there.
It has taken our vintners only 150 years and modern science to determine what grows best and where. Once the best locations were determined, American vintners began to make wine. American grapes, however, were not mirror images of their French parents, and winemakers had to discard French winemaking techniques to develop new ways of turning finicky grapes into exceptional wines.
Among the myriad of producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines, only a few have mastered those grapes and are producing outstanding wines. I recently had the privilege to sample some wines from one of those latter-day vintners, Gary Farrell. The grapes for all these wines were picked on August 21, 2017, the day of a total solar eclipse.
2017 Olivet Lane Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($45).
The wine is outstanding and memorable. If you are seeking a carbon copy of a French Montrachet, you will be disappointed, as this wine is
a true child of California. The aroma of apples, peaches, and pears are intertwined with notes of fragrant summer flowers. I believe that this wine will set the stylistic direction for better Chardonnays for years to come.
2017 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($45).
The grapes for this wine were sourced from seven of the top vineyards in the Russian River Valley. The fruit from each vineyard adds its own nuance to the final blend, resulting in a delicately scented and brightly flavored wine. Cherries, both the fruit and the blossoms, dominate the aroma along with vanilla and toasted nuts. This is a wine that should not be taken for granted. It is a grand example of what a fine, well-made California Pinot Noir should be.
2017 Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($35).
This wine was made from the grapes of famous vineyards in the Russian River Valley. The wine displays the aroma of lemon, melon, peach, and pear with hints of green tea, jasmine and two of my personal favorites, arugula and wasabi. These flavors continue on to the finish where they mingle with tropical fruit and apple. This wine has an incomparable and unforgettable silky finish with hints of flavors that I have never before experienced in a Chardonnay.
It is customary to serve white wines slightly chilled. Unfortunately, all too often, the wines are served too cold so their characteristics become muted. If the wine fogs the glass, it is too cold. Twenty minutes in the refrigerator should be more than enough.
By Bennet Bodenstein