Tag: fine dining

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The Fish Joint offers great seafood in Coconut Creek

The Fish Joint on the corner of Wiles & Lyons roads in Coconut Creek features an all-star menu of your favorite seafood options. They are open for takeout and have plenty of space for socially-distanced dining and outdoor seating.

Quality, fresh fish is the key to any great seafood place. The Fish Joint is no exception. Walking up to the counter, you’ll find fresh catches from local fishermen on display.

The special of the day was the lobster roll. They offer both hot and cold options. I had the hot option, which was a classic roll filled to the brim with delicious lobster meat. The owner, Brian, said they use the highest grade lobster meat for their rolls, and these have been a popular item.

On the menu is another of my favorites, conch fritters. I fell in love with queen conch meat when I was in Turks and Caicos. Queen conch, which used to be found in high quantities in the Florida Keys until the 70s, are often sourced from the Bahamas and Turks and Caicos. The Fish Joint orders large quantities when they are in season, and the fritters provide a delightful crunch.

The seafood platter I ordered consisting of mahi-mahi, diver scallops, and shrimp was delicious and cooked to perfection. The locally sourced mahi-mahi was tender and not dry. The blackened shrimp and scallops had the perfect amount of spices, so as not to overpower the delicate flavors.

All the food came in takeout boxes, because of the new normal. The box is specially designed to allow for steam to escape and minimize humidity and condensation for the trip home. It made it easy to take the leftovers home, with all the food staying fresh until reheated the next day. It’s good to see The Fish Joint taking the extra effort to ensure a great experience for takeout customers.

The menu also contained other items like the crab boil and fish tacos, and for landlubbers, a great burger and grilled cheese. So if you are looking for incredible, local seafood at reasonable prices, check out The Fish Joint, you won’t be disappointed.

 

By Curiously Hungry

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Wine Watch: Worthy wines from the Pairing

I believe that the average American consumer has become a little leery of all the stuff they see advertised on TV. Most of it is junk, not worth the “only $19.95, free shipping and we will send you a second one for a small additional fee,” that they advertise.

The wine industry also suffers in a similar way. As a holdover from Prohibition (enacted in 1919), wine companies are still restricted in the ways they may advertise and in the content of those ads. Consumers must, therefore, rely on writers to tell them what is available in the marketplace and give some sort of information on the wine.

With prices on all items rising, consumers will not plunk down their money on something that is totally unknown to them and I truly do not blame them. It is my job to point the wine consumer toward worthy choices that they probably might never have tried without a nudge; consider this a nudge.

The Paring 2017 Pinot Noir ($25)

This is a Pinot Noir of character, stature, and an excellent ambassador of the variety. The aroma is a mélange of strawberries, red raspberries, and black cherries mingled with oak. In the flavor department, the true capabilities of the
Pinot Noir grape is explored to its fullest with black cherries dominating and hints of vanilla with soft oak in the background. The finish remains true to the variety and is long, complex, and if I might add, memorable. As a confirmed Pinot Noir lover, I enjoyed this wine and consider it to be an excellent buy for the money.

The Paring 2017 Chardonnay ($25)

This is a Chardonnay that is definitely made to appeal to the American taste. Big, wide-open, and complex tropical fruit flavors and aromas are the hallmarks of this wine. Pineapple is the most obvious of these tropical flavors and it carries right through to a finish that is soft, creamy, and very smooth. Even if you are a charter member of the ABC club (Anything But Chardonnay), this is a white wine you can drink and enjoy. It is so good that you may even resign from the ABC.

The Paring 2017 Syrah ($25)

If you are a red wine fan, you have probably tried a Syrah and you know what a fine wine it can be; if you have not tried one, you have missed a real treat. The aroma has the variety’s trademark of cherry and raspberry flavors with a spice and oak background. This is a soft and easy to drink wine that can, like a red Zinfandel, accompany a very broad spectrum of foods. The Paring 2017 Syrah wine takes these attributes one step further and raises the variety to new dimensions of opulence. It is an elegant wine of elegant proportions and shows exactly why Syrah wines are gaining in popularity around the world.

The Paring 2017 Sauvignon Blanc ($25)

Sauvignon Blanc grapes can produce wines in the fruity California style or the classical style. The Paring 2017 Sauvignon Blanc lives in both worlds. It has the
grassy component of the classical wines, which has been purposely played down so that the fruitiness of the California style can come through. This effect allows the wine to be served with a wider spectrum of foods, will nicely accompany poultry and the lighter meats as well as seafood, and is a standout as a sipping wine. The quality of this wine belies its very reasonable price.

The Paring 2017 Red ($25)

The name of this wine is really three letters that could portend trouble, RED.
Not knowing the grapes used to make this generic wine could result in one that you may not like. Fear not, this wine is not only good, but it also is remarkable. The components each contribute their own specific flavors and aromas to the final blend in such a way that one variety’s contribution does not overpower another, but harmonizes to produce a delightful wine.

 

By Bennet Bodenstein

 

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Los Tacos

Sometimes what is meant as a compliment sounds like anything but. So that there is no confusion, what I am about to say is offered as high praise, given with much respect and admiration not only for this restaurant but also, and perhaps more importantly, to the Mexican-American population, to Mexicans around the world who bring a taste of their homeland to the faraway places they travel, and to the residents of Mexico, a land steeped in history, culture, tradition, and fabulous food creations.

And so I say lovingly, that to call Mexican cuisine, however, prepared, “gourmet” is almost an insult to Mexicans because the very essence of Mexican cooking speaks to hominess, family, friends, sharing, and joy. Gourmet sounds like an affectation. Gourmet sounds highfalutin. Gourmet sounds like a separation of the haves from the have-nots. And, dear friends, Mexican food is the reverse of that. It is the embracing of different tastes, different spices, and herbs, and meats, fowl, and fish made to be enjoyed — not diagnosed. It is meant to be experienced holistically and not separated from the environment, the people at the dining table, or the time of year, day of the week, or occasion.

Los Tacos by Chef Omar ought to be called gourmet without any of the negative connotations attached. The food is quite simply fantastic and quite simply — typically Mexican, in the truest sense.

South Florida has an abundance of fast-food Mexican places, mostly franchises, and I really enjoy them. Though the restaurant names are different, the menus vary very little, and I actually thought that what I was served was the extent of Mexican food. Wow! I was so wrong.

Also, Coral Springs is rapidly becoming a mecca for inter-national foods. Indian, Peruvian, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, American, and now Mexican restaurants dot the commercial strips. It’s great for us, great for the locals and visitors, great for families, and great for me, as I get to sample foods from around the world and I barely have to leave home.

Los Tacos by Chef Omar is a mini-chain – I think Chef Omar now has three. I’m betting he can’t open them fast enough, as his eating public is likely demanding them.

So, why am I so gaga over such a simple formula? It’s how Omar perfected the items and balanced the spices and kept the decor simple but inviting. It is also how he staffs his eateries. On our review night, Vanessa served us. She is fluent in English/Spanish and fluent in each and every item’s ingredients and the expected results of the blends, such as smooth on the palate but warm in the tummy, or hot on the tongue but quickly dissipating to sweet. For the sake of fairness, I must reveal that Vanessa is not Mexican. She is Puerto Rican. I tell you this so you will know that food servers come in all sizes, shapes, and backgrounds. It is up to each one to master the art of serving. Vanessa has succeeded.

I am not going to spend much time discussing the particular dishes, although Omar spends much time preparing them and fine-tuning them. My reasoning is simple: Mexican cooking revolves around using a few ingredients per item and balancing them to achieve the desired result. I don’t enjoy writing about the use of chili peppers offset with a sweet spice or hot sauces balanced with avocado; I’m gambling that you agree. I am gambling that, like me, you want to know if this place is worth going to. It most assuredly is.

What I am hoping you want to answer is this: Is Los Tacos by Chef Omar a place I and my family will enjoy? Yes. Is Los Tacos by Chef Omar a place where the clientele is seeking a fun evening in addition to great food? Yes. Is it bright, clean, and festive? Yes, yes, yes.

Finally, the one thing we all want to be comfortable knowing is that the food is fresh. Omar uses as many locally grown ingredients as are available. He shops daily to assure freshness. His meats are selected for their tenderness, color, complexity, and use (no sense in using breast meat chicken if the recipe calls for wings). Olé!

10299 Royal Palm Boulevard, Coral Springs

754-229-8940

 

by Charles Marcanetti

March 2016

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Little Havana

As a lifelong South Floridian who grew up in Miami, I find that often one Cuban restaurant’s menu is pretty much the same as the next Cuban restaurant’s menu. Mainstays at most include camarones al ajillo (shrimp in garlic sauce), ropa vieja (shredded beef), chicharrón de pollo (chicken chunks marinated in mojo and fried), churrasco (steak), lechón asadá (roast pork), and vaca frita (fried beef). All are delicious – that’s why they are classics – but I must admit it is refreshing to find a new take on an old favorite.

At Little Havana Bar & Grill in Coral Springs, those dishes exist, but owner Jorge Alvarez also has more inventive dishes – often influenced by other Latin cultures. That is what my friends and I discovered while dining there on a recent Friday night.

Dinner / Cena

We started with drinks and piquillo, Spanish tapas that are not always on the menu. A tasty marriage of a roasted red pepper stuffed with bacalao (cod), the appetizer sat in a rich sauce that tasted like lobster bisque. We also had mariquitas, fried plantain chips that were perfectly tender in the center and crispy on the edges. It came with a mojo sauce, which we drizzled on top.

“They are delish,” declared Vida Handelsman of Coral Springs, who was also dining that night with her family. The mariquitas are her preferred way to start a meal at Little Havana. She said she prefers Alvarez’s place to the other Latin restaurants in the neighborhood that serve Cuban food. “They don’t specialize in Cuban as they do here. The Latin flair here is so authentic, I feel like I’m on vacation.” Her husband, Kenny, who works in Hialeah, said the food at Little Havana is as faithful to the original cuisine as any of his regular Cuban lunch spots.

Alvarez, a 14-year resident of Parkland, grew up in the restaurant business. Twenty-seven years ago, his parents opened Little Havana restaurant in North Miami, followed by another one in Deerfield Beach four years later. In May of this year, Alvarez and his wife, Michelle, opened the newest Little Havana on the corner of Coral Ridge Drive and Holmberg Road. Open seven days a week, from 11:30 am to 10 pm, the community welcomed it with open arms, and the restaurant is packed daily.

One of the more unusual dishes is lechón tamarindo, pork topped with a sweet and slightly sour sauce made from sweet red peppers and tamarind fruit. On its own, the tropical tamarind can be so tart it is almost inedible unless cooked or rolled in sugar. At Little Havana, the popularity of this dish hatched pollo tamarindo, the chicken version that my dining companion, Rachel, described as “tender with a fantastic sauce.”

For Rachel, the farther a culinary concoction strays from the beaten path, the bigger the smile on her face. She often finds chicken uninspiring, but not this time. “I love finding authentic cuisine cooked in a way I have never tried before,” she said. “That was the dish on the menu that spoke to me.”

Perhaps because they represent comfort food, I chose the hearty chicken soup and the tender Little Havana steak, pounded thin, then grilled and served with chimichurri sauce. My friend, Sara, chose the Relleno, a piece of haddock stuffed with tender bites of shrimp and mingled with a creamy seafood sauce. It didn’t disappoint (her, or any of us.)

There are a couple of choices on Little Havana’s parrillada (grilled) menu, both intended for two people – or in our case, it was enough for three. The first one has chicken, beef, and pork smothered in onions and chorizo (Spanish sausage). The second option has roast pork, lamb shank, ropa vieja (which got its name because the shredded meat in this classic dish resembles “old rags”), grilled chicken steak, and Little Havana steak. Bring your appetite and invite your meat-loving friends if you plan to order this. All of the meats were perfectly grilled, moist, and hearty.

For health-conscious diners, who think they need to limit Cuban food to an occasional calorie splurge, Little Havana’s manager Jorge Fuentes has you covered. He suggests salmon (not on the menu but always available), grilled snapper filet, or Pescado Diana, haddock baked with tomato, onion, garlic, and capers, then toasted under a broiler. Vegetables and salads can be substituted as a side instead of the standard rice and beans.

Drinks / Bebidas

Little Havana serves wine and beer, but Alvarez says the most popular drink is the mojito (which also comes in pineapple, mango, and guava flavors). It is strong and refreshing, but my favorite was the robust sangria… flavorful and sweet. There is also a mojito martini.

Happy hour is from 4-7 pm every day, which means you can celebrate the end of the day with $6 mojitos and sangria, and $4 beers. Furthermore, you don’t have to sit at the bar to enjoy these specials – happy hour includes the whole restaurant. Monday’s happy hour is actually a “happy day,” when drink specials are available all day long. Two favorites come out twice a week: paella is served all day on Fridays and arroz con pollo is available all day on Tuesdays.

There is some form of live music Thursday through Sunday from 6-10 pm. A singer crooned Spanish language tunes to a packed house on Friday night when we dined. Alvarez said this is a typical Friday night crowd including large parties, families, and couples.

Dessert / Postre

Save room for dessert… we tried three, proclaiming our favorites to be the creamy flan and crema catalana flambé, the Spanish version of crème brulee. Aside from the name, catalana flambé is very close in taste, texture, and appearance to its French cousin. Flame-kissed, the sugar fused on top and cracked under my fork. Once in my mouth, those crunchy bits wedged themselves in the crevices of my delighted molars. The tres leches cake was moist, dense, and very sweet. Of course, if you have a sweet tooth like me, I encourage you to be the judge. So take your pick, or better yet, try them all.

 

by Linda Brockman

November 2018

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Kosta’s Greek Eatery

It starts with the menu, which proudly announces its philosophy, “Where Everyone Is Welcome.” Further down we learn that there is a private room for “Big Fat Greek Weddings”.

Of course, even before the menus arrive one might hear the crashing of dishes as Kosta, the owner and chef at Kosta’s Greek Eatery (5024 N. Federal Highway, Lighthouse Point, 954-571-3842), smashes plates against the stone-like tile floor signaling a mighty greeting and a wish for good health for arriving guests (customers). Then the wait-personnel, with proud and happy grins, usher you to your seats; large tables, anticipating large meals.

No one, absolutely no one, is ever disappointed. This truly Greek eatery is a wonderful family restaurant serving truly authentic Greek foods in an environment reminiscent of Greek eateries throughout the Greek Isles. The food is marvelous, the atmosphere is light and cordial and the waitstaff is highly professional and fully knowledgeable of each item on this wonderfully balanced menu. Actually, all the fancy words are not sufficient to describe the one critical element so essential for such restaurants – is it fun?

The answer is an emphatic, “yes!” Kosta’s Greek Eatery is fun, and the food is delicious and the service is exemplary.

Kosta is a big, strapping man who consumes an entire pitcher (and more) each evening of iced tea to cool him down as he prepares mouth-watering dish after mouthwatering dish. He greets each guest regardless of how busy he is, and he still finds the extra seconds to smash his plates and keep this impromptu party going. His day, however, begins with the food buying. He trusts no one to shop for the evening’s meal and if anyone tries to sell him anything different than he demands he simply passes on to the next item. He demands the best because to him, only the best will do for his precious customers. It is evident in the quality of the food.

As usual, we ordered much too much, but that’s the advantage of being a food critic. In addition to the Three Dip Platter ($12.95) Tzatziki, Humus and Eggplant Salad served with grilled pita, we had three other appetizers.

Kosta’s Meatball Appetizer ($9.50) is clearly NOT Italian. It is sweet and is actually made leaving the chopped meat with larger pieces of the meat (less chopped) adding fantastic texture to the meatball. They were perfectly spiced making for a light, never over-bearing taste and pressed into shape without making them as hard as a baseball, so that even the chewing was enjoyable.

Then, the quintessential Greek Appetizer: Homemade Dolmades ($7.50). These Grape Leaves Stuffed with Ground Beef and White Rice, are finished with a Creamy Lemon Dill Sauce and are very light. They will convince anyone who hasn’t yet eaten Greek cuisine to start the experience immediately and to those of us who are old-timers, they “open” the evening with a joyful treat.

We also had Sautéed Calamari ($10.95) as ONLY the Greeks can make. It was served with homemade marinara sauce, wasn’t breaded, remained moist and crunchy to the bite, and stands up to any calamari served in any ethnic restaurant, anywhere.

What would a trip to a Greek Restaurant be without sampling the Greek Salad ($6.50 small and $8.50 large)? At Kosta’s, it consists of lettuce, tomato, red onion, olives, and dolmades topped with Feta cheese and tossed in a very special vinaigrette.

Our main course was initiated by a dish of Loukaniko Sausages ($13.95), which are Greek country sausages from a small village in Greece called Kastoria. These great sausages were crisp on the outside and moist and tender on the inside…just the way sausages should be.

Then came another Greek staple; Spinach Pie with Feta Cheese ($14.95). Kosta makes these fantastic creations with Greek Fillo Dough, Spinach and Feta Cheese in a protected recipe of secret seasonings. Don’t question the secret; eat and enjoy a wonderful taste sensation.

Kosta’s “House Special” Grilled Steak Portobello Mushrooms and Onion ($20.95) is a true South Florida classic. It is made with a Giant Skirt Steak grilled to perfection and smothered (really smothered) with Grilled Portobello Mushrooms and Onions. We added three Jumbo (really Jumbo) shrimp making the dish add up to $29.95 and worth every drachma.

What would any visit to a Greek restaurant be without savoring Greek Lamb Chops ($27.95)? Kosta’s is renowned throughout this area for preparing the best lamb chops in Florida. I won’t argue. They are tender, juicy, and sweet and had just the right amount of “pepperiness” (I made up the word), to bring out the true texture of this rather difficult to cook (correctly) specialty. I recommend it to you—let me know your opinion.

Our last main course was the Jumbo Shrimp Mykonos ($27.95). It is a dish consisting of Jumbo Grilled Shrimp, topped with Fresh Tomato, Basil, and Garlic Sauce with melted Feta Cheese served over a bed of the most delicious Greek rice you’ll ever have.

All these main dishes are served with side dishes and each side dish is so good you’ll want to make the side dish another main dish…oh, the pressure we must endure!

And, my dear friends, as you might expect, we finished our evening with the sweetest, moistest, flakiest, most delicious Baklava ($4.00) anyone could imagine. Leave room for it or it’ll be your loss.

Psst! Try the Greek wine Kleoni, it will add a great touch to a fun-filled evening. Hoopa!

Kosta’s

5024 N. Federal Highway, Lighthouse Point,

954-571-3842

Hours of Business:

11:30 p.m.-2p.m. Tuesday-Friday

5 p.m.-9:30 p.m. Sunday-Thursday

5 p.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday

 

By Charles Marcanetti

October 2008

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Jet Runway Café

From 1920 to 1933, America was an alcohol-free country (yeah, sure). Still, America’s thirst for inebriants flourished and hidden clubs grew up everywhere, the entering into which was prefaced by whispering a password. And so, the Speakeasy was born. After America came to its partying senses, some enterprising restaurateurs began hiding themselves in semi-secret locations ensuring that the mystery and uniqueness of their eateries were heightened.

Some 76 years later came the birth of Jet Runway Café at Fort Lauderdale Executive Airport. Hidden among hangars, parked airplanes, and helicopters, it continues, now seven years later, enchanting its patrons with astounding fare and remarkable views of the landings and takeoffs of planes old and new, and the comings and goings of support personnel and vehicles.

Not only is this a superlative breakfast and lunch experience, Jet Runway Café can, and frequently does, cater on-site parties up to 150 people and larger events on-site and off-site, indoors and outdoors literally touching the runways.

 

OMG. The same chefs and sous-chefs as watch over the day-to-day diners create the many dishes offered for the gatherings. And yes, there seems to be no shortage of pilots and passengers flying in for a meal … and take-out.

One of the clues we food critics use in determining if a restaurant is “solid” is the staff turnover. At Jet Runway Café the shortest time employee is 4½ years and our server for our luncheon, Luanda, has been there six years. She loves what she does and where she does it. And her colleagues and, most of all, her customers can tell from her first smile to her modest approach to delivering the check that this is her turf. Of course, Luanda and any and all the other servers would have a hard time existing at one location if the food wasn’t top-notch. It is. And now, let’s check out some of the offerings.

We started off with Margarita Flatbread consisting of grape tomatoes, mozzarella, basil pesto, and balsamic glaze, and Pulled Pork Flatbread made with mojo pork, shredded mozzarella, and cilantro chimichurri. I would love to get the recipe because each was light but full-flavored and I could have made a meal of it. But I’m glad I didn’t because we next savored two remarkable salads: Silver Lining Salad made with mixed greens, grilled chicken, candied pecans, sundried cranberries, mandarin oranges, grape tomatoes, and gorgonzola drizzled with balsamic vinaigrette; and, my favorite salad, the Crispy Goat Cheese Salad created by melding blackened shrimp, baby spinach, candied pecans, strawberries, blueberries, and a balsamic vinaigrette. It’s like having dessert for lunch.

Jet Runway Café offers a different soup daily, so check it out on the day(s) you’re going. We went on a Monday, French Onion Soup day. The soup was just as it was supposed to be and for French Onion Soup that is saying a lot, as too often the only thing French about it is the name. Here it was French, French Onion Soup and delicious. Tomato Bisque is on the menu every day. So just to be polite (LOL) I sampled it. I loved it.

They serve half-pound burgers with lots of accoutrements and in many different styles. I had none, but judging from the aromas and the look on the faces of the patrons eating them I can say you will likely be very impressed. But why would I not have a burger for lunch? Simple, because I saw what the main courses were and I opted for the gourmet, as opposed to the gourmand.

Steak Chimichurri was fabulous, made as close to perfection as I have experienced in a long time and the skirt steak is served with grilled onions, black beans, yellow rice, and roasted vegetables. I also had a giant portion of the Honey Lime Salmon made with Atlantic salmon with a citrus glaze and served with whipped garlic potatoes and mixed vegetables.

We also could not resist the Mahi-Mahi sandwich served with guacamole, lettuce, tomato, pickle, and chipotle mayo served on toasted brioche, plus the Crab Cake sandwich made from lump crab and cilantro-lime aioli and served with guacamole, lettuce, tomato, and pickle on a toasted brioche bun, and finally the Cuban sandwich made with roasted pulled pork, Virginia ham, Swiss cheese, kosher pickle, and mustard served on a soft white hoagie. None of these creations is typical fare but they are perfect for lunch and later on in the day when you take lots and lots of the items home.

Even if you don’t believe me I tell you truly that we also had every one of their side dishes — the Mac-N-Cheese, Sweet Potato Fries, Seasoned Fries, and Sweet Plantains — and each was mouthwatering. For dessert, we had the Bag of Cookies and the Chocolate Cake and I will not have a craving for sweets for years to come. Lastly, for the food let me say that Jet Runway Café serves the best sweet raspberry iced tea I have ever had.

My experience at this totally enjoyable eatery has assured them of my becoming a regular customer and a person who proudly offers his word of mouth to all who would hear.

5540 NW 21st Terrace Fort Lauderdale

954-958-9900 (restaurant)

954-990-1939 (catering)

info@jetrunwaycafe.com

 

By Charles Marcanetti

February 2016

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Japango

There are three Asian/sushi restaurants that I eat in regularly. They actually triangulate our readership area and depending on where I am when the desire strikes, that’s where I go. This month, having just realized that it’s been years that I am a customer and I never reviewed them, I am singing the praises of Japango, located north of Hillsboro on the west side of 441. It’s been around for a long time, which should indicate how good it is. It is also sexy in its décor and has an exceptionally wide variety of styles and choices of fish, poultry, and meat specialties, cooked, lightly cooked, and raw.

Most “sushi” eateries are simple, small, and aimed at serving fresh fish in an old country-style diner-like atmosphere. For me, as in Japan, that’s the way it should be. Except at Japango they tweaked the philosophy just a bit. It is a “real” restaurant. It is smartly laid out in soft lighting, mellow colors, and encourages a slower dining experience, one where we sit and savor our dishes. Of course, when you try to guide your clientele toward a relaxed atmosphere you run the risk of having poor service. Not at Japango. They have the service timed to coordinate with each table’s rate of eating; a perfectly timed dining choreography.

None of this would mean a thing if the food was lousy. Japango’s fish is fresh, cut to the exact size called for (sashimi is cut thinner than nigiri and nigiri is the better name for what most of us call “sushi”).

Let me explain – technically any fish served with vinegared rice is sushi, but that type of sushi served in rectangular slices – or round – is nigiri. I recommend, without authority, an article at allaboutsushiguide. com/types-of-sushi.html for those of you who are really curious.

 

Another wonderful treat at Japango is that they have an extensive menu. Some sushi restaurants add some meat and poultry dishes to satisfy the few remaining people who scrunch up their faces at the sound of sushi. At Japango, you’ll find a full Asian/Thai menu and a fairly wide array of Vegan dishes. So, even if your newly converted vegetarian college student son, daughter, or grandchild waxes endlessly about the dangers of this food or that food, even they will not go hungry (don’t send me letters complaining about my insensitivity – I was that person).

While I have sampled much of the menu I have not had each and every item. But, I have had some of each: Japanese, Thai, Sushi, Wok, raw, cooked, and even vegetarian. I have never been disappointed. I feel confident that you will be happy when you visit and return time after time.

However, I feel compelled to tell you about some of my favorites.

 

The Ultimate Sea Bass Roll – made with shrimp, mango, masago, scallion, asparagus, and enclosed in soy wrap with avocado and grilled miso seabass on top with miso butter, eel sauce, red and green tobiko – is outstanding. The Japango Lobster Bomb – made with tempura lobster, scallions, asparagus, ginger, fish eggs, rolled in seaweed and topped with jumbo prawn with spicy mayo, eel sauce, and further accompanied by tempura lobster in a shell with spicy wasabi – is equally good.

Sometimes, when I am feasting on raw fish I miss the “chewing” sensation so I order a Soft Shell Eel Roll – made with soft shell crab, volcano shrimp, and ginger wrapped in soy paper topped with avocado, eel, and eel sauce. The softshell crab allows me to crunch a little and my palate is sated.

If you enjoy more than miso soup (I love miso soup) you must try the Shrimp and Lobster Wonton Soup – made with homemade shrimp and lobster gyoza in chicken stock, topped with shredded bok choy. It is wonderful.

Are you still looking for warm, cooked food? OK. The Black Bean Basil Sea Bass – made with red pepper, green pepper, onion, jalapeno chili with black bean basil sauce, or the Garlic Lobster – served with two lobster tails, snow peas, mushroom, carrots, baby corn, celery sautéed with garlic sauce, and accompanied with jasmine rice – will each knock your socks off.

They serve only premium hot sake and, as usual, I cannot get enough. I never drive when I visit Japango.

I conclude by telling you that Japango is a sushi and Asian restaurant, suitable for a fine dining experience but lending itself, as well, to a lighter lunch or evening dinner. Bring your guests, your family, and friends. It’s fun, fine dining in a well-lighted, happy environment.

By Charles Marcanetti

[February 2017]

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Eduardo de San Angel (Mexican)

WHAT IS MEXICAN INFUSION? I can make it very simple: my mother operated an “infusion” kitchen when we were children. When my mother cooked Hungarian goulash, it had an infusion of Italian. When she cooked potato latkes, they were infused with an Italian flair. The difference at Eduardo’s is a gourmet menu and my mother’s was an “eat this or eat nothing” menu.

At Eduardo de San Angel, we find decidedly gourmet chefs, who are trained in Mexican cuisine, re-creating dishes from around the world. An example is the duck l’Orange — Long Island duckling in a spicy guava syrup and cinnamon-poached pear compote. Out with the French and in with the Mexican – brilliant!

Eduardo de San Angel (and he is a real person, the owner, and the chef ) has an outstandingly international menu that creatively re-organizes famous dishes to reflect a delicate, but enticing, Mexican flair.

Most Mexican restaurants are bright and dance like in their décor. Not Eduardo’s. Here we found a lighting pattern bright enough to know that no one was hiding the food from sight and still soft enough to project a romantic aura. Here walls were not full of Mexican scenes; they were subtle and tasteful, as found in a New England estate home.

But this “estate” was not so large as to lose guests and not so small as to cramp everyone in. This is a fine example of a well-balanced establishment with proper flow, aimed at the customers’ satisfaction. It is balanced against the ease of service and the maximizing of attention to diners. I was quite struck with this eatery and pleased to see that the food presentations were as well-conceived as the environment.

My guests and I are all fans of ceviche. Here, it is prepared with plum tomatoes, sweet onions, and jalapeno peppers, then cilantro-marinated in lime juice and gold tequila. The sashimi-grade loin of yellowfin tuna and the grilled North Atlantic calamari were each treated to Eduardo’s infusion of Mexican spices. They were a perfect segue to one of the tastiest soups ever created. Eduardo’s cilantro soup, while still only a frequent special, is soon to be a regular feature. Do yourselves a favor and ask if it is available.

We sampled homemade ravioli’s (the Italian part of the dish) filled with black beans and fresh cheese (the infusion), which were served with smoked chipotle and toasted walnut cream sauce. We also had the trio of Colorado lamb chops (true American fare), prepared with brushed cilantro-garlic oil, and grilled exotic mushroom tamale, served with a duo of smoked chipotle and green tomatillo (thus making this a great Mexican infusion).

Of course, we also saved room for the restaurant’s special desserts. If one picture is worth a thousand words, take a look at these great pictures, which serve as mouthwatering invitations to a rare dining experience.

EDUARDO DE SAN ANGEL—located at 2822 East Commercial Blvd. (954-772-4731) in Fort Lauderdale, features Mexican-infused international cuisine.

By Charles Marcanetti

December 2011

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Ethos Greek Bistro

Ethos means “character” in Greek. For restaurateur George Pappas, owner of Ethos Greek Bistro in the Promenade at Coconut Creek, it also represents integrity, “your guiding belief.” When Pappas opened Ethos in May 2012 he was responding to his ethos and the needs of the local market. He wanted a restaurant that served fresh and healthful food, in a timely and friendly manner, at a fair price. When I dined there recently I got to see for myself.

My friends and I ordered a variety of dishes – from spreads and salads to lamb and fish dishes – accompanied by elegant libations and finished with dessert, baked in-house.

Standouts are the Rebel Lamb, dips, Shrimp Saganaki (baked in fresh tomato and garlic, topped with barrel-aged feta), Zucchini Croquettes with tzatziki (yogurt and cucumber spread), and chargrilled octopus.

A popular appetizer is dolmades (traditional stuffed grape leaves). Pappas said the staff hand rolls 60,000 a year. My table decided instead to try the spread sampler, which proved to be a good choice. It was served with crusty bread fresh from the oven that my friend Beth called “the perfect dipper.”

The appetizer includes four dips: refreshing tzatziki, creamy feta, tasty hummus, and “eggplant smash” (which resembled its Middle Eastern cousin, baba ganoush) with feta, roasted red peppers, and walnuts. Each of us had a different favorite in the flight of spreads.

My friend Steve’s surf and turf comprised of shrimp saganaki – (delicious, and also available as a small plate) and lamb chops. Steve ordered them to be cooked medium and he loved them, although the piece I tried was a bit rare.

The Ethos Platter has a bit of everything: Greek salad, spinach rice, roasted potatoes, grilled pita, and yogurt sauce with a choice of vegetable or protein, such as chicken, gyro, pork tenderloin, or kefte (lamb meatballs). My dinner companions ordered Faroe Islands Salmon and Bronzini (described on the menu as Greek sea bass) as their entrees, which they enjoyed.

My dish was Rebel Lamb, which might be unfamiliar to readers (but well worth trying) even though it has been around for more than a century. The dish goes back to the Ottoman Rule when Greeks hid in the mountains and would steal a lamb for food. They needed to cook it, but building a fire brings smoke that will reveal their hiding spot. So the rebels developed a slow-cooking method of sealing the meat and other ingredients in a clay pot and burying it with hot coals, allowing it to braise slowly. Today, Ethos uses New Zealand lamb and parchment paper, baked in an oven to get the same effect. Braising tenderizes the meat but I did not expect it to be this tender and have so much flavor – it was perfection.

The full drink menu has everything from wine and martinis to the classic Greek retsina and signature drinks with a Greek twist. Try the Mykonos Mule or Mastiha Cosmo made with a Greek liquor called Mastiha (pronounced mas-tee-ka or mas-tee-ha), which is made from the sap of a tree on the coast of Chios. I was surprised by its refreshing flavor and my friend Beth found it to be the perfect complement to the meal – in fact, she said it was her favorite part. A lighter version of ouzo, Mastiha’s licorice base is quieted by the other ingredients in mixed drinks.

The goal is to have the food served within seven to eight minutes of ordering lunch; 12 minutes at dinner. So you might not wait once you’re seated, but be prepared to wait a bit for a table on Friday or Saturday nights. Being in an open mall, Ethos attracts many shoppers. But the good part is you can walk around the Promenade while waiting.

Desserts are made in-house. “You can have an amazing meal, but if there is no wow at the end, it won’t be as memorable,” Pappas said. “Dessert must wow.”

Sweets include baklava, and lesser-known Greek favorites Ekmek and Galakto Fantastico, both made with phyllo dough and custard. My favorite was the exquisite Triple Layer Cheesecake, dressed with walnuts, shredded phyllo, and topped with Belgian chocolate ganache. Wow indeed.

Within the Promenade, Pappas also owns Ciao Cucina and Bar, as well as another Ethos location in Wilton Manors. He has a business plan to open six more restaurants in South Florida in the next five years.

“When you try to deliver food that is healthful, fresh, and tasty, coupled with good service at a fair price, often something will be lacking,” said Pappas, who was raised in Crete. “It is hard to put it all together. We work very hard to accomplish that here.”

No Zorba Here

Traditional Greek restaurants often make me think of waiters dancing the syrtaki, shoulder to shoulder, and breaking plates (on purpose) with a festive “Opa!” Owner George Pappas didn’t want his establishment to be “that Greek restaurant.”

There is no blue and white Greek-style lettering, no dancing on the tables, no breaking dishes, no scattered napkins, and no waiters dancing with their hands on each other’s shoulders in a line. (I picture Anthony Quinn in Zorba the Greek and immediately hear the movie’s iconic theme.)

Pappas, 45, is proud to offer both traditional and modernized food and drink in a minimalist setting. He sees this more as catering to a local market – from Aventura to Boca – that wants a menu offering fresh and healthy dishes.

by Linda Brockman

March 2018

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The Addison

A Boca Raton Fine Dining Establishment

There are only three real choices in fine dining:

1. Go to an upscale eatery and select from its sophisticated menu and get served by professional wait staff in a well-appointed environment.

2. Hire a gourmet private chef to come to your home, club or facility to oversee, create and prepare the evening’s fare, subject to your choices, whims and fancies.

3. Do it yourself at home, if you have the talent, ability and everything you need.

What if, though, you were to desire hosting an affair with dozens of people, or even hundreds of people, and you wanted haute cuisine with all the concomitant attention, nuance and subtlety of a private, intimate gathering? What if the affair was with just two of you and you wanted what amounted to a private chef for the evening? Does a facility exist that accommodates private parties from two to 400, which can serve dozens of secluded small dining areas and relatively large functions such as balls, bar mitzvahs, and weddings in a manner equal to or better than any strictly restaurant or any strictly catering facility?

Is there an eatery that is a haute cuisine catering facility and an intimate reservations-only restaurant, where not only the few restaurant patrons are spoiled with near-perfect everything, but the folks attending the larger functions are equally treated and it is all done at the same time?

The Addison (notice – it doesn’t say “restaurant,” “catering” or “banquet”) is the ONLY very upscale, very private, very near-perfect facility where, based on the reservations you make, you will be secluded in an area where you and your one guest will feel as if you rented an entire restaurant for the evening or you and your many guests will believe that you have entered into a bygone era of the decadent, quiet luxury of old Florida. It is located at 2 East Camino Real in Boca Raton (telephone: 561-372-0568).

You enter the Addison through a courtyard embraced by two huge banyan trees that are hundreds of years old. They cover just enough of the night sky to make one feel safe from the elements and reveal just enough of the night sky to allow for dream-like fantasies. Daytime functions are shaded by these protective giants, opening to a courtyard within a courtyard for exchanging vows or sliding gracefully across the grounds to the sounds of a Viennese waltz provided by your orchestra (or any sounds by any orchestra you retain).

There are comparisons to be made. Sundy House in Delray Beach is beautiful and brings its patrons to 1930s’ Florida. Vizcaya in Miami and the 55-room Flagler Museum in Palm Beach evoke the same yesteryear spirit. But in Boca Raton, in fact in all of Florida, the only such facility is the Addison, offering the finest in luxury surroundings, serviced by consummate professionals, with very haute cuisine.

Several years ago, I reviewed a gourmet, reservations-only restaurant in Boca Raton called Six Tables. That wonderful eatery caters to, as the name implies, only six tables per evening, thus making the guests feel as if they have a private chef (who chooses and creates the evening’s menu). Then there are catering facilities/ restaurant combinations such as Brooks in Boca Raton. There they allow for diners on an à la carte basis, as well as catered parties. The Addison model, however, combines the best of all worlds without sacrificing one iota, one degree of magic.

If you want to surround yourself with what once was, dine on “never tasted tastes like this,” and be treated like there’s no one else, then whether you’re two or 400 in number and you’re willing to accept the price of profound luxury, call the Addison.

It is fruitless to describe our menu for the evening because each item was prepared specifically to our desires. Each of the main courses — the chicken, the fish and the filet mignon — were, not surprisingly, exactly as ordered. The opening salads were gigantic and delicious. The desserts were amazing. The coffee was fresh and a great closing to a rare and very special evening.

Patrick Duffy (executive chef ), Cody Tomczyk (event operations manager) and Jessica Brownstein (event captain) were as gracious as if we entered their own home, but there was never so much as a hint of stuffiness. We were made to feel like royalty and I firmly believe that everyone is treated just the same.

You will not be going to the Addison for a casual dinner or a quick night out. But you will remember each and every visit, whether it’s for your anniversary, Valentine’s Day, special birthday or a large holiday event. The size of the party doesn’t matter, only the goal — perfection.

By Charles Marcanetti

[August 2011]
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Brio

HAVING RE-VISITED MY ARTICLES for the past several years, I noticed that I generally inserted negative undertones to chain or franchise restaurant reviews. I suppose that I am a victim of my own naiveté. I believe that stock recipes in a cookie-cutter decorated restaurant, with a talented but formulaically trained wait staff, cannot be great.

I was and am, quite simply, wrong. While many such restaurants really disappoint, there are some that pleasantly surprise. A case in point is this month’s delightful eatery: Brio Tuscan Grille, with many restaurants around this nation, including one right here in Boca Raton (5050 Town Center Cir #239 at The Shops at Boca Center, 561-392-3777).

When we entered the restaurant, I bumped into an old friend, Steve, who is and should be climbing the management ladder. He promptly seated us in a quiet spot (the restaurant is quite large, so quiet is relative). Next, Jenny, one of the most gracious and professional wait persons we have ever encountered, took command of arranging an ideally timed food delivery, with one perfect dish following another at just the right pace to allow for an enjoyable, non-rushed dinner that gave us time for conversation and comfortable dining.

We began with “primi” (first – duh) and experienced an array of rich but light appetizers: roasted garlic, spinach and artichoke dip, served bubbling hot with Parmesan flatbread. Next up was the chicken and chorizo-stuffed peppers, baby bell peppers stuffed with chicken, chorizo, Parmigiano-Reggiano and topped with Fontina and pesto breadcrumbs, baked until golden brown. Finally, I loved the spicy shrimp with eggplant, pan-seared shrimp in a black pepper cream sauce over Romano-crusted eggplant.

Forgetting the fact that I could stand to lose thirty pounds, I “forced” myself to sample some truly exquisite bruschettas and flatbread. We had bruschetta quattro, which is a taste of four of the bruschettas, all housemade, and then we jumped into the full orders of roasted red pepper bruschetta with fresh basil, Parmigiano-Reggiano and a balsamic drizzle, then roasted tomato and ricotta bruschetta, with fresh basil and a balsamic drizzle, and margherita flatbread made with fresh mozzarella, vine-ripened tomatoes and fresh basil. But my absolute favorites were blackened shrimp and chorizo flatbread made with smoked gouda, basil pesto, green onions, roasted pepper relish and fresh cilantro, and sausage, pepperoni and ricotta flatbread, which is topped with fresh mozzarella and house-made tomato sauce.

The reason I’m listing many more items than usual is that I truly enjoyed these dishes. I’m trying to convey my comfort level by encouraging you to feel confident eating any of the many wonderful creations appearing through – out this extensive menu.

Some other excellent choices are: lasagna Bolognese al forno, oven-baked and layered with authentic Bolognese meat sauce, alfredo, ricotta and mozzarella, or (in my case, AND) chicken Milanese, which is crispy Romano chicken with herb pasta, fresh mozzarella and housemade pomodoro sauce. I love shrimp, so, of course, I had seared shrimp risotto served with fresh basil, peperonata, fire-roasted tomatoes and a pesto drizzle, and grilled shrimp and orzo, which are spicy jumbo shrimp served with orzo, grilled asparagus, zucchini, tomatoes and lemon vinaigrette.

One house specialty is Brio crab and shrimp cakes, which are lump crab and Gulf shrimp cakes with roasted vegetables and creamy horseradish. It should be a specialty, as it was marvelous.

We had a phenomenal meat course of beef and veal where each bite was tender, moist and quite succulent. Try the artichoke-crusted beef medallions or beef medallions with shrimp scampi. The chicken under the brick, grilled salmon and roasted lamb chops artistically represented the chicken, salmon and lamb dishes.

Here’s a rather humble admission from the managers: Brio uses quality, but commercial, pastas. Their strategy is to buy what is best and then to prepare it in a unique way. Homemade pastas could be as good, but if prepared incorrectly or topped with inferior products, it’s a waste. On the other hand, top-quality, store-bought pasta that is handled as a delicacy will always be wonderful. At Brio, all the pastas were so good that I didn’t believe their pedigree, at first.

We closed out our evening with an array of con – science-considerate desserts (portion-controlled), plus one absolutely NOT portion-controlled chocolate cake and some rich and satisfying coffees. Brio is a local place with real Italian treats serving hungry people in a very happy, bright atmosphere. The prices are very reasonable and the parking is easy. I know this will be a regular dining spot for all of us.

By Charles Marcanetti

[March 2012]

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