Tag: mexican

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Los Tacos

Sometimes what is meant as a compliment sounds like anything but. So that there is no confusion, what I am about to say is offered as high praise, given with much respect and admiration not only for this restaurant but also, and perhaps more importantly, to the Mexican-American population, to Mexicans around the world who bring a taste of their homeland to the faraway places they travel, and to the residents of Mexico, a land steeped in history, culture, tradition, and fabulous food creations.

And so I say lovingly, that to call Mexican cuisine, however, prepared, “gourmet” is almost an insult to Mexicans because the very essence of Mexican cooking speaks to hominess, family, friends, sharing, and joy. Gourmet sounds like an affectation. Gourmet sounds highfalutin. Gourmet sounds like a separation of the haves from the have-nots. And, dear friends, Mexican food is the reverse of that. It is the embracing of different tastes, different spices, and herbs, and meats, fowl, and fish made to be enjoyed — not diagnosed. It is meant to be experienced holistically and not separated from the environment, the people at the dining table, or the time of year, day of the week, or occasion.

Los Tacos by Chef Omar ought to be called gourmet without any of the negative connotations attached. The food is quite simply fantastic and quite simply — typically Mexican, in the truest sense.

South Florida has an abundance of fast-food Mexican places, mostly franchises, and I really enjoy them. Though the restaurant names are different, the menus vary very little, and I actually thought that what I was served was the extent of Mexican food. Wow! I was so wrong.

Also, Coral Springs is rapidly becoming a mecca for inter-national foods. Indian, Peruvian, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, American, and now Mexican restaurants dot the commercial strips. It’s great for us, great for the locals and visitors, great for families, and great for me, as I get to sample foods from around the world and I barely have to leave home.

Los Tacos by Chef Omar is a mini-chain – I think Chef Omar now has three. I’m betting he can’t open them fast enough, as his eating public is likely demanding them.

So, why am I so gaga over such a simple formula? It’s how Omar perfected the items and balanced the spices and kept the decor simple but inviting. It is also how he staffs his eateries. On our review night, Vanessa served us. She is fluent in English/Spanish and fluent in each and every item’s ingredients and the expected results of the blends, such as smooth on the palate but warm in the tummy, or hot on the tongue but quickly dissipating to sweet. For the sake of fairness, I must reveal that Vanessa is not Mexican. She is Puerto Rican. I tell you this so you will know that food servers come in all sizes, shapes, and backgrounds. It is up to each one to master the art of serving. Vanessa has succeeded.

I am not going to spend much time discussing the particular dishes, although Omar spends much time preparing them and fine-tuning them. My reasoning is simple: Mexican cooking revolves around using a few ingredients per item and balancing them to achieve the desired result. I don’t enjoy writing about the use of chili peppers offset with a sweet spice or hot sauces balanced with avocado; I’m gambling that you agree. I am gambling that, like me, you want to know if this place is worth going to. It most assuredly is.

What I am hoping you want to answer is this: Is Los Tacos by Chef Omar a place I and my family will enjoy? Yes. Is Los Tacos by Chef Omar a place where the clientele is seeking a fun evening in addition to great food? Yes. Is it bright, clean, and festive? Yes, yes, yes.

Finally, the one thing we all want to be comfortable knowing is that the food is fresh. Omar uses as many locally grown ingredients as are available. He shops daily to assure freshness. His meats are selected for their tenderness, color, complexity, and use (no sense in using breast meat chicken if the recipe calls for wings). Olé!

10299 Royal Palm Boulevard, Coral Springs

754-229-8940

 

by Charles Marcanetti

March 2016

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Eduardo de San Angel (Mexican)

WHAT IS MEXICAN INFUSION? I can make it very simple: my mother operated an “infusion” kitchen when we were children. When my mother cooked Hungarian goulash, it had an infusion of Italian. When she cooked potato latkes, they were infused with an Italian flair. The difference at Eduardo’s is a gourmet menu and my mother’s was an “eat this or eat nothing” menu.

At Eduardo de San Angel, we find decidedly gourmet chefs, who are trained in Mexican cuisine, re-creating dishes from around the world. An example is the duck l’Orange — Long Island duckling in a spicy guava syrup and cinnamon-poached pear compote. Out with the French and in with the Mexican – brilliant!

Eduardo de San Angel (and he is a real person, the owner, and the chef ) has an outstandingly international menu that creatively re-organizes famous dishes to reflect a delicate, but enticing, Mexican flair.

Most Mexican restaurants are bright and dance like in their décor. Not Eduardo’s. Here we found a lighting pattern bright enough to know that no one was hiding the food from sight and still soft enough to project a romantic aura. Here walls were not full of Mexican scenes; they were subtle and tasteful, as found in a New England estate home.

But this “estate” was not so large as to lose guests and not so small as to cramp everyone in. This is a fine example of a well-balanced establishment with proper flow, aimed at the customers’ satisfaction. It is balanced against the ease of service and the maximizing of attention to diners. I was quite struck with this eatery and pleased to see that the food presentations were as well-conceived as the environment.

My guests and I are all fans of ceviche. Here, it is prepared with plum tomatoes, sweet onions, and jalapeno peppers, then cilantro-marinated in lime juice and gold tequila. The sashimi-grade loin of yellowfin tuna and the grilled North Atlantic calamari were each treated to Eduardo’s infusion of Mexican spices. They were a perfect segue to one of the tastiest soups ever created. Eduardo’s cilantro soup, while still only a frequent special, is soon to be a regular feature. Do yourselves a favor and ask if it is available.

We sampled homemade ravioli’s (the Italian part of the dish) filled with black beans and fresh cheese (the infusion), which were served with smoked chipotle and toasted walnut cream sauce. We also had the trio of Colorado lamb chops (true American fare), prepared with brushed cilantro-garlic oil, and grilled exotic mushroom tamale, served with a duo of smoked chipotle and green tomatillo (thus making this a great Mexican infusion).

Of course, we also saved room for the restaurant’s special desserts. If one picture is worth a thousand words, take a look at these great pictures, which serve as mouthwatering invitations to a rare dining experience.

EDUARDO DE SAN ANGEL—located at 2822 East Commercial Blvd. (954-772-4731) in Fort Lauderdale, features Mexican-infused international cuisine.

By Charles Marcanetti

December 2011

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Casa Tequila

It’s 1958, a small West Coast studio band quickly records a song with only one word in it, and for the next 16 weeks, most of which were at number 1 on the charts, America listened to the Champs’ smash hit, Tequila!

Now, today, I offer you all one word to brighten your lunch or dinner, and no, I am not saying you should drink your meal, I am saying the word is “Tequila!” I am recommending the Casa Tequila in Coral Springs (and, if the other Casa Tequilas are just as good, they will also be a delight for you).

As with so many Mexican restaurants, customers dine in a party-like atmosphere. There’s upbeat music playing, the décor is “happy” and the dining floor is bright but not overpowering. The entire eatery is spotlessly clean and there is plenty of room between tables, so there’s no claustrophobia, clamoring, or overhearing your neighbors.

Casa Tequila has a great mixed drink menu and they absolutely know how to prepare each one expertly (especially the ones with, shall I say it, tequila). Being a rebel though, I had the Mojito (rum based) and it was delicious.

Our waiter for the evening was Ever, who was ever-present and ever invisible; a perfect blend. He helped us understand what each dish was and what degree of spiciness each had (though each dish can be adjusted to suit each patron’s pallet). Casa Tequila makes several soups “to order” and “from scratch” and with that boast I decided to put them to the test. I ordered the Seafood Soup, which is made with shrimp, scallops, crab legs, fish, octopus, and vegetables, served in a mellow briny-broth with fresh tomatoes, onions, and cilantro. It was perfect.

I ordered the Ceviche Salad made with shrimp cooked in fresh lime juice with onion, cilantro, tomatoes, and mango. I love Ceviche. Casa Tequila’s is properly called a salad because it is thin, cool, and crisp. You will want to drink the remaining liquid (I did) and, since it is light, there will still be plenty of room for the “real” food.

Our waiter, Ever, next recommended the fresh Guacamole. I thought fresh meant made with avocado bought that day. Actually it does, but at Casa Tequila it also means created right before your eyes, at your table, using whole avocados, tomatoes, cilantro, onions, fresh lime juice, and other spices prepared as entertainment much like a Hibachi chef would do in a Japanese restaurant. Thoroughly enjoyable, titillating multiple senses.

The Taco Salad, which is a traditional Mexican starter, is made in a crispy flour tortilla shell with ground beef, chicken, or picadillo and we all loved it.

I can also recommend the steak or chicken fajitas made in a sizzling skillet and served with sautéed vegetables.

We tried (and loved) the Dos Amigos which is either grilled carne asada or pollo asada and comes accompanied with four shrimps wrapped in bacon. Of course they come with rice, beans, and sour cream.

Since I was reviewing a Mexican restaurant I tried those dishes that are called traditional and the Quesa Tacos (3) made with melted cheese, carne asada, specially seasoned, served with whole beans and homemade hot sauce is fabulous.

My confession for the month is that I love burritos. I eat them all the time. If they were not good I would tell you. The burritos at Casa Tequila are wonderful. They are somewhat spiced and, unlike the bland burritos served in many so-called Mexican restaurants (to accommodate the American tastes, or, so we’re told), these have a little kick. To me, if you are offering a certain type of food it should be offered as it is meant to be made, not simplified for this pallet or that pallet. It is the job of the chef to educate the customer. It will result in a loyal following and grateful diners. I am completely sold on the ones offered here.

My standard burrito fare is Burrito Relleno made using a soft flour tortilla filled with chile relleno, rice, and beans, and covered with enchilada sauce of chopped tomatoes then sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. You should try different ones even though these are my favorites. Go ahead, experiment. Gamble. Venture into unexplored territory. The burritos are very special and your experience will be worth it.

The desserts are a fabulous end to an enjoyable evening, whether it’s the apple chimichanga, flan, or fried ice cream, your sweet tooth will be sated. I will return to Casa Tequila whenever I am anywhere near the Magnolia Shoppes in Coral Springs. Join me. Tequila!

Casa Tequila, 9617 Westview Drive, Coral Springs, FL 954-340-4611.

By Charles Marcanetti

[November 2016]

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