Fish for amberjacks around artificial reefs

Amberjacks don’t get much respect from South Florida anglers, but they should.

They’ll bite throughout the spring when other species won’t. Getting amberjacks to the boat is challenging because they fight like mixed martial arts heavyweights.

AJs, as they’re known, gather around local artificial reefs to spawn from March through early June. That makes them easy to target, but it also makes them difficult to land because they’ll head straight for the wreck when they’re hooked. If they make it, that’s pretty much the end of the fight, because it’s next to impossible to pull them out, and usually the fishing line ends up breaking on the wreck.

Local amberjacks range from 20 to 50 pounds, but they can be bigger, like 60 or 70 pounds. To give their anglers a fighting chance, most charter captains use 50 pound outfits spooled with monofilament or braided line. Leaders range from 80 to 130 pound monofilament and are tied to a big circle hook.

Those captains use a variety of live baits, with goggle eyes, small blue runners, and small bonitos-their favorites. AJs also willbite ballyhoo, mullet,  speedos, pinfish, and grunts.

The basic rig has a three-way swivel tied to the main line with a 10-foot or longer leader tied to the swivel along with a sinker on a short piece of monofilament. Sinker weights can range from 8 to 16 ounces depending on the strength of the current.

Hooks used with bait for amberjacks cannot be made of stainless steel in state waters off South Florida and anglers must have a de-hooking device aboard their boats to aid in the release of fish. As soon as you hook an amberjack, you need to reel as fast as possible to get the fish away from a wreck, although a big AJ can pull enough drag to get back to its hangout. A good boat driver can help by pulling away from the wreck after the fish is hooked.

Even then, the fight is far from over, because the fish will circle and dig all the way to the surface, then take out line just when you thought it was about to give up.

Another way to catch amberjacks is by jigging for them. Butterfly or flutter jigs can be dropped around a wreck and then worked almost to the surface by lifting the fishing rod up and down as you reel.

If the jig, which darts and flutters as it sinks, doesn’t get bit, let it fall back down and jig it up again. Bites can come on the fall or after the lure hits bottom and is jigged up.

Conventional or spinning outfits spooled with 50 to 65 pound braided line tied to five feet of 80 pound monofilament or fluorocarbon leader can be used to jig.

The only downsides to jigging: Even if you don’t hook an amberjack, it can be tiring after doing it several times. It can also be expensive if the AJs you hook get into the wreck and break the line. The jigs typically cost from $10 to $25, so a good day jigging wrecks for AJs can easily cost you $100 in lures.

Among the pluses: You don’t have to mess with live bait and the jigs also catch cobia and grouper, as well as almaco jacks, kingfish, and blackfin tunas.

Figuring out where to drop your jigs or baits is easy. Just visit any of the area’s artificial reefs in 150-300 feet (you can find their coordinates at myfwc.com/conservation/saltwater/artificial-reefs).

Among the best wrecks for amberjacks are many of the 25 artificial reefs sunk off Pompano Beach by the Pompano Beach Fishing Rodeo, including the Corey and Chris in 244 feet, the Lowrance in 200 feet, and the Miller Lite in 155 feet.

The Rodeo reefs were so good for amberjacks that commercial anglers used to hammer them every spring. Rodeo officials repeatedly asked state and federal agencies to make the tournament’s reef area off-limits to commercial fishing. When that didn’t happen, the Rodeo refused to sink any more ships.

Deeper wrecks are often better than shallow wrecks because they don’t receive as much fishing pressure as the shallow ones. If you don’t get a bite on a wreck after a while, move to another one and keep moving until you  find the fish.

It’s best to fish the edges of a wreck rather than dropping a bait or jig in the wreck. Depending on the current, you might have to position your boat well off the wreck so by the time your bait hits bottom, it’ll be adjacent to the wreck.

In the Atlantic, the amberjack daily bag limit is one per person, the size limit is 28 inches from the tip of the mouth to the fork of the tail and the season is open year-round. The Gulf of Mexico bag limit is also one per person, the size limit is 34 inches fork length and the season is open May 1-31 and Aug. 1-Oct. 31.

A fried amberjack sandwich is popular fare in restaurants in Florida’s Panhandle, and smoked amberjack is quite tasty, but most local anglers release the fish because their flesh tends to have worms. The worms are not harmful, but they can make you think twice about eating an amberjack as you pull them out of a fillet.

Cool Novembers bring hot fishing near shallow reefs

Cold fronts in November typically result in red-hot offshore fishing on shallow reefs off the South Florida coast.

“When you think November, the first thing you think of is patch reefs,” said Capt. Abie Raymond of Go Hard Fishing. “It’s a fun timeof year.”

Patch reefs are small mounds of coral in 12 to 30 feet of water that
are scattered from Palm Beach to Islamorada. As Raymond explained, those reefs are where ballyhoo and shrimp gather when water temperatures drop after a cold front.

Capt. Abie Raymond holding a yellowtail snapper

That sudden abundance of bait attracts a variety of species ranging from snapper to sailfish.

“When the water cools down, the patch reefs get full of ballyhoo and everything follows them in there,” said Raymond, who runs offshore and inshore charters in his 26-foot C-Hawk out of Bill Bird Marina in Miami Beach (www.gohardfishing. com). “And the shrimp start running good and push out of the inlets onto the patch reefs.

Raymond added that big mutton snapper and gag grouper feast on the ballyhoo, as do kingfish, Spanish mackerel, cero mackerel, and jacks. At the same time, yellowtail snapper, smaller muttons, and porgies eat the shrimp.

The ballyhoo also attract sailfish to the patch reefs. Raymond said he’s seen several sailfish at a time chasing ballyhoo around the shallow reefs. When that happens, he’ll rig live ballyhoo on spinning outfits to cast to the sailfish.

“You can sight-cast the sailfish because they’re jet black against the reef and the white sand,” Raymond said. “If you watch your bottom machine, you’ll see the relief immediately where it goes from sand to spiky bottom. A lot of times you’ll see sea turtles on the surface, which is a great indicator of a patch reef, or you’ll see ballyhoo. If you see a wad of them, they’re probably on top of a patch reef.”

Catching ballyhoo is fairly easy after you see the baitfish showering out of the water or swimming around patch reefs. Anglers can catch them with a cast net or a hoop net or anchor the boat, put a block of chum in the water and catch ballyhoo on a rod and reel. You can also tie off your boat to the mooring balls along shallow reefs throughout the region and chum up ballyhoo.

When the ballyhoo show up in the chum slick, you can use light spinning outfits to cast small gold hooks baited with a piece of shrimp to catch one baitfish at a time.

An even better method that Raymond learned from Capt. Ray Rosher is to tie a loop of Monel wire or monofilament to a popping cork or a kite fl oat and clip it to the bottom of a sabiki rig where the weight is normally attached. That way, the sabiki rig, which has six hooks, fl oats on the surface.

“They’ll eat the sabiki hooks or you can bait the hooks with a small piece of shrimp or even fresh ballyhoo,” said Raymond, who immediately deploys some of the live baits and also puts out a few live shrimp or fresh dead shrimp on the bottom. “Half of a fresh dead shrimp will catch all kinds of good stuff.”

He fishes the shrimp on a 10-pound spinning outfit with 20-pound braided line with three feet of 30-pound fluorocarbon leader tied to the main line with a double-uni knot.  A half-ounce egg sinker slides on the leader above a 2/0 or 3/0 circle hook, depending on the size of the shrimp.

Raymond fishes the ballyhoo on 20-pound spinning outfits. He ties a Bimini twist in the 20-pound main line and uses a no-name knot to attach the double line created by the Bimini to 15 feet of 50-pound monofilament leader. He uses an 80-pound Spro swivel to add 12 inches of No. 5 stainless wire to prevent cutoffs from mackerel. The wire is attached to a 6/0 VMC light wire circle hook.

Cap. Abie Raymond and gag grouper fish

He secures the ballyhoo to the hook with an elastic bridle band, which is available at local tackle shops. Raymond places the band over the bend of the circle hook and ties a half-hitch in it, pulling the knot tight to the hook to create a loop. Using an open-eye bridle needle, he hooks the loop on the needle and runs it through the ballyhoo’s lower jaw and then loops it over the tip of the ballyhoo’s bill.

“The hook rests on the top of his jaw, so the ballyhoo can still breathe, his mouth is open, the ballyhoo is secure and the hook is exposed completely,” Raymond said. “It sounds complicated, but it’s so easy to do it.

“If you have one ready in the livewell and you see ballyhoo spraying, fi re it out. You might catch a Spanish mackerel, a kingfish, a jack, or a sailfish. Some days it’s just bite after bite.”

Days like that make November a month to remember.