Tag: restaurant

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Phat Boy Sushi Lounge rolls into Coral Springs

Phat Boy Sushi Lounge recently opened a new location at The Walk on University.  Now you can find their combination of unique creations and Japanese classics much closer to home.

Navigating Phat Boy’s Sushi Lounge menu is like walking down a side street in Tokyo during dinner hours.  You will find a wide selection of Sushi, Yakitori, and Ramen, along with your favorite beverages on the menu.

One of their popular drink creations is the Lychee Martini.  A great gin martini,  flavored with the sweet nectar of Lychee, you will find it hard to just have one.

A traditional appetizer choice, Agedashi Tofu, its lightly fried tofu in a subtle Japanese broth.  A wonderful way to wake up your taste buds.

The chef had a special Sashimi salad on the menu.  It was a generous pile of fresh Tuna and Salmon served on top of a bed of kale, with a citrus sauce bringing it all together.  The texture of kale provides a good contrast with the fish, a surprisingly light starter.

If you want to experience the full Sashimi experience, try their Sashimi platter.  It’s a great assorted combination of Salmon, salmon belly, hamachi, (Pacific yellowtail) hamachi belly, and escolar.  All the fish is extremely fresh.  The salmon egg encased in hamachi belly is a tasty treat, where each bite creates a small pop of buttery flavor in your mouth, coating your taste buds.  You have a choice of pickled or standard wasabi.  The pickled wasabi provides a different flavor profile, which is highly recommended if you haven’t tried it in the past. Ribeye tobanyaki offers your steak lover a tasty Japanese variant.  The ribeye is grilled, sliced, and served in a savory soy sauce with enoki mushrooms, shishito peppers, and tomatoes.  A wonderful blend of umami flavors that go well with a side of rice. Beware, a small percentage of the peppers will be spicy.

Another traditional main course choice is Tonkotsu ramen.  Ramen, an adaptation of a Chinese noodle dish, allows chefs to showcase their imagination, and has become one of the national dishes of Japan.  Phat Boy Sushi Lounge’s ramen noodles are light and fluffy.  The ramen are drowned in a tasty broth with hearty servings of egg, pork, and mushrooms.  It’s great for lunch or dinner.

Phat Boy Sushi also offers a great selection of desserts.  The fried Oreo cookie is a splendid creation that you must try if you love Oreos. Oreo cookies are fried tempura style, and while still warm, combined with refreshing green tea ice cream. It brings memories of summer fair and is a great way to finish your meal.

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The Fish Joint offers great seafood in Coconut Creek

The Fish Joint on the corner of Wiles & Lyons roads in Coconut Creek features an all-star menu of your favorite seafood options. They are open for takeout and have plenty of space for socially-distanced dining and outdoor seating.

Quality, fresh fish is the key to any great seafood place. The Fish Joint is no exception. Walking up to the counter, you’ll find fresh catches from local fishermen on display.

The special of the day was the lobster roll. They offer both hot and cold options. I had the hot option, which was a classic roll filled to the brim with delicious lobster meat. The owner, Brian, said they use the highest grade lobster meat for their rolls, and these have been a popular item.

On the menu is another of my favorites, conch fritters. I fell in love with queen conch meat when I was in Turks and Caicos. Queen conch, which used to be found in high quantities in the Florida Keys until the 70s, are often sourced from the Bahamas and Turks and Caicos. The Fish Joint orders large quantities when they are in season, and the fritters provide a delightful crunch.

The seafood platter I ordered consisting of mahi-mahi, diver scallops, and shrimp was delicious and cooked to perfection. The locally sourced mahi-mahi was tender and not dry. The blackened shrimp and scallops had the perfect amount of spices, so as not to overpower the delicate flavors.

All the food came in takeout boxes, because of the new normal. The box is specially designed to allow for steam to escape and minimize humidity and condensation for the trip home. It made it easy to take the leftovers home, with all the food staying fresh until reheated the next day. It’s good to see The Fish Joint taking the extra effort to ensure a great experience for takeout customers.

The menu also contained other items like the crab boil and fish tacos, and for landlubbers, a great burger and grilled cheese. So if you are looking for incredible, local seafood at reasonable prices, check out The Fish Joint, you won’t be disappointed.

 

By Curiously Hungry

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Los Tacos

Sometimes what is meant as a compliment sounds like anything but. So that there is no confusion, what I am about to say is offered as high praise, given with much respect and admiration not only for this restaurant but also, and perhaps more importantly, to the Mexican-American population, to Mexicans around the world who bring a taste of their homeland to the faraway places they travel, and to the residents of Mexico, a land steeped in history, culture, tradition, and fabulous food creations.

And so I say lovingly, that to call Mexican cuisine, however, prepared, “gourmet” is almost an insult to Mexicans because the very essence of Mexican cooking speaks to hominess, family, friends, sharing, and joy. Gourmet sounds like an affectation. Gourmet sounds highfalutin. Gourmet sounds like a separation of the haves from the have-nots. And, dear friends, Mexican food is the reverse of that. It is the embracing of different tastes, different spices, and herbs, and meats, fowl, and fish made to be enjoyed — not diagnosed. It is meant to be experienced holistically and not separated from the environment, the people at the dining table, or the time of year, day of the week, or occasion.

Los Tacos by Chef Omar ought to be called gourmet without any of the negative connotations attached. The food is quite simply fantastic and quite simply — typically Mexican, in the truest sense.

South Florida has an abundance of fast-food Mexican places, mostly franchises, and I really enjoy them. Though the restaurant names are different, the menus vary very little, and I actually thought that what I was served was the extent of Mexican food. Wow! I was so wrong.

Also, Coral Springs is rapidly becoming a mecca for inter-national foods. Indian, Peruvian, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, American, and now Mexican restaurants dot the commercial strips. It’s great for us, great for the locals and visitors, great for families, and great for me, as I get to sample foods from around the world and I barely have to leave home.

Los Tacos by Chef Omar is a mini-chain – I think Chef Omar now has three. I’m betting he can’t open them fast enough, as his eating public is likely demanding them.

So, why am I so gaga over such a simple formula? It’s how Omar perfected the items and balanced the spices and kept the decor simple but inviting. It is also how he staffs his eateries. On our review night, Vanessa served us. She is fluent in English/Spanish and fluent in each and every item’s ingredients and the expected results of the blends, such as smooth on the palate but warm in the tummy, or hot on the tongue but quickly dissipating to sweet. For the sake of fairness, I must reveal that Vanessa is not Mexican. She is Puerto Rican. I tell you this so you will know that food servers come in all sizes, shapes, and backgrounds. It is up to each one to master the art of serving. Vanessa has succeeded.

I am not going to spend much time discussing the particular dishes, although Omar spends much time preparing them and fine-tuning them. My reasoning is simple: Mexican cooking revolves around using a few ingredients per item and balancing them to achieve the desired result. I don’t enjoy writing about the use of chili peppers offset with a sweet spice or hot sauces balanced with avocado; I’m gambling that you agree. I am gambling that, like me, you want to know if this place is worth going to. It most assuredly is.

What I am hoping you want to answer is this: Is Los Tacos by Chef Omar a place I and my family will enjoy? Yes. Is Los Tacos by Chef Omar a place where the clientele is seeking a fun evening in addition to great food? Yes. Is it bright, clean, and festive? Yes, yes, yes.

Finally, the one thing we all want to be comfortable knowing is that the food is fresh. Omar uses as many locally grown ingredients as are available. He shops daily to assure freshness. His meats are selected for their tenderness, color, complexity, and use (no sense in using breast meat chicken if the recipe calls for wings). Olé!

10299 Royal Palm Boulevard, Coral Springs

754-229-8940

 

by Charles Marcanetti

March 2016

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Eduardo de San Angel (Mexican)

WHAT IS MEXICAN INFUSION? I can make it very simple: my mother operated an “infusion” kitchen when we were children. When my mother cooked Hungarian goulash, it had an infusion of Italian. When she cooked potato latkes, they were infused with an Italian flair. The difference at Eduardo’s is a gourmet menu and my mother’s was an “eat this or eat nothing” menu.

At Eduardo de San Angel, we find decidedly gourmet chefs, who are trained in Mexican cuisine, re-creating dishes from around the world. An example is the duck l’Orange — Long Island duckling in a spicy guava syrup and cinnamon-poached pear compote. Out with the French and in with the Mexican – brilliant!

Eduardo de San Angel (and he is a real person, the owner, and the chef ) has an outstandingly international menu that creatively re-organizes famous dishes to reflect a delicate, but enticing, Mexican flair.

Most Mexican restaurants are bright and dance like in their décor. Not Eduardo’s. Here we found a lighting pattern bright enough to know that no one was hiding the food from sight and still soft enough to project a romantic aura. Here walls were not full of Mexican scenes; they were subtle and tasteful, as found in a New England estate home.

But this “estate” was not so large as to lose guests and not so small as to cramp everyone in. This is a fine example of a well-balanced establishment with proper flow, aimed at the customers’ satisfaction. It is balanced against the ease of service and the maximizing of attention to diners. I was quite struck with this eatery and pleased to see that the food presentations were as well-conceived as the environment.

My guests and I are all fans of ceviche. Here, it is prepared with plum tomatoes, sweet onions, and jalapeno peppers, then cilantro-marinated in lime juice and gold tequila. The sashimi-grade loin of yellowfin tuna and the grilled North Atlantic calamari were each treated to Eduardo’s infusion of Mexican spices. They were a perfect segue to one of the tastiest soups ever created. Eduardo’s cilantro soup, while still only a frequent special, is soon to be a regular feature. Do yourselves a favor and ask if it is available.

We sampled homemade ravioli’s (the Italian part of the dish) filled with black beans and fresh cheese (the infusion), which were served with smoked chipotle and toasted walnut cream sauce. We also had the trio of Colorado lamb chops (true American fare), prepared with brushed cilantro-garlic oil, and grilled exotic mushroom tamale, served with a duo of smoked chipotle and green tomatillo (thus making this a great Mexican infusion).

Of course, we also saved room for the restaurant’s special desserts. If one picture is worth a thousand words, take a look at these great pictures, which serve as mouthwatering invitations to a rare dining experience.

EDUARDO DE SAN ANGEL—located at 2822 East Commercial Blvd. (954-772-4731) in Fort Lauderdale, features Mexican-infused international cuisine.

By Charles Marcanetti

December 2011

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Ethos Greek Bistro

Ethos means “character” in Greek. For restaurateur George Pappas, owner of Ethos Greek Bistro in the Promenade at Coconut Creek, it also represents integrity, “your guiding belief.” When Pappas opened Ethos in May 2012 he was responding to his ethos and the needs of the local market. He wanted a restaurant that served fresh and healthful food, in a timely and friendly manner, at a fair price. When I dined there recently I got to see for myself.

My friends and I ordered a variety of dishes – from spreads and salads to lamb and fish dishes – accompanied by elegant libations and finished with dessert, baked in-house.

Standouts are the Rebel Lamb, dips, Shrimp Saganaki (baked in fresh tomato and garlic, topped with barrel-aged feta), Zucchini Croquettes with tzatziki (yogurt and cucumber spread), and chargrilled octopus.

A popular appetizer is dolmades (traditional stuffed grape leaves). Pappas said the staff hand rolls 60,000 a year. My table decided instead to try the spread sampler, which proved to be a good choice. It was served with crusty bread fresh from the oven that my friend Beth called “the perfect dipper.”

The appetizer includes four dips: refreshing tzatziki, creamy feta, tasty hummus, and “eggplant smash” (which resembled its Middle Eastern cousin, baba ganoush) with feta, roasted red peppers, and walnuts. Each of us had a different favorite in the flight of spreads.

My friend Steve’s surf and turf comprised of shrimp saganaki – (delicious, and also available as a small plate) and lamb chops. Steve ordered them to be cooked medium and he loved them, although the piece I tried was a bit rare.

The Ethos Platter has a bit of everything: Greek salad, spinach rice, roasted potatoes, grilled pita, and yogurt sauce with a choice of vegetable or protein, such as chicken, gyro, pork tenderloin, or kefte (lamb meatballs). My dinner companions ordered Faroe Islands Salmon and Bronzini (described on the menu as Greek sea bass) as their entrees, which they enjoyed.

My dish was Rebel Lamb, which might be unfamiliar to readers (but well worth trying) even though it has been around for more than a century. The dish goes back to the Ottoman Rule when Greeks hid in the mountains and would steal a lamb for food. They needed to cook it, but building a fire brings smoke that will reveal their hiding spot. So the rebels developed a slow-cooking method of sealing the meat and other ingredients in a clay pot and burying it with hot coals, allowing it to braise slowly. Today, Ethos uses New Zealand lamb and parchment paper, baked in an oven to get the same effect. Braising tenderizes the meat but I did not expect it to be this tender and have so much flavor – it was perfection.

The full drink menu has everything from wine and martinis to the classic Greek retsina and signature drinks with a Greek twist. Try the Mykonos Mule or Mastiha Cosmo made with a Greek liquor called Mastiha (pronounced mas-tee-ka or mas-tee-ha), which is made from the sap of a tree on the coast of Chios. I was surprised by its refreshing flavor and my friend Beth found it to be the perfect complement to the meal – in fact, she said it was her favorite part. A lighter version of ouzo, Mastiha’s licorice base is quieted by the other ingredients in mixed drinks.

The goal is to have the food served within seven to eight minutes of ordering lunch; 12 minutes at dinner. So you might not wait once you’re seated, but be prepared to wait a bit for a table on Friday or Saturday nights. Being in an open mall, Ethos attracts many shoppers. But the good part is you can walk around the Promenade while waiting.

Desserts are made in-house. “You can have an amazing meal, but if there is no wow at the end, it won’t be as memorable,” Pappas said. “Dessert must wow.”

Sweets include baklava, and lesser-known Greek favorites Ekmek and Galakto Fantastico, both made with phyllo dough and custard. My favorite was the exquisite Triple Layer Cheesecake, dressed with walnuts, shredded phyllo, and topped with Belgian chocolate ganache. Wow indeed.

Within the Promenade, Pappas also owns Ciao Cucina and Bar, as well as another Ethos location in Wilton Manors. He has a business plan to open six more restaurants in South Florida in the next five years.

“When you try to deliver food that is healthful, fresh, and tasty, coupled with good service at a fair price, often something will be lacking,” said Pappas, who was raised in Crete. “It is hard to put it all together. We work very hard to accomplish that here.”

No Zorba Here

Traditional Greek restaurants often make me think of waiters dancing the syrtaki, shoulder to shoulder, and breaking plates (on purpose) with a festive “Opa!” Owner George Pappas didn’t want his establishment to be “that Greek restaurant.”

There is no blue and white Greek-style lettering, no dancing on the tables, no breaking dishes, no scattered napkins, and no waiters dancing with their hands on each other’s shoulders in a line. (I picture Anthony Quinn in Zorba the Greek and immediately hear the movie’s iconic theme.)

Pappas, 45, is proud to offer both traditional and modernized food and drink in a minimalist setting. He sees this more as catering to a local market – from Aventura to Boca – that wants a menu offering fresh and healthy dishes.

by Linda Brockman

March 2018

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Fra Diavolo

Just south of the University/Commercial intersection on the east side of the road is a restaurant that advertises its quality right on the marquee. The sign says Fra Diavolo with four large stars. That sign is an understatement in a marvelously understated masterpiece of an elegant restaurant.

Fra Diavolo is located at 5444 N. University Dr. in Lauderhill (954-746-3132). It is adorably decorated in what can only be described as a “very European motif,” subtle, warm, and inviting so that customers linger for more than a little while.

It’s relatively small, seating roughly eighty people. That is what gives it the intimacy so sorely lacking in most South Florida eateries. Yet, the tables aren’t crowded close to each other to get as many customers as fire codes allow. The restaurant maintains balance and caters to the discerning palate. You would imagine, and with some obvious justification, that the restaurant would make up for the small number of seats with exorbitant prices. If you did, like me, you’d be absolutely wrong. The prices are embarrassingly low for what you receive.

It has been at the same location and under the same ownership for nineteen years. Carol Oliveros rarely takes credit for creating this eatery. She points to her partners and chefs and wait staff as the backbone of the operation. They are clearly critical for their success.

But let’s give credit where credit is due. Carol puts in seven-day weeks (even though the restaurant is closed on Mondays, Carol still has the cleaning, ordering, preparing, and shopping, among other tasks). The result of her care is a smoothly running, effortless to-watch, perfection of an ultra-high quality dining experience – night in and night out.

Please believe me when I say that I am not searching for my favorite adjectives just to show off my command of the language. I am trying, with my limited ability, to get you all to try this place once on my say-so. You will become a customer.

To create the wonderful dishes takes time and Fra Diavolo lets its customers know from the outset so that there is no misunderstanding. Menus state: “Every day at Fra Diavolo, meals are prepared fresh to order. It takes at least 20 to 35 minutes to prepare your entree, so please be patient and enjoy some wine or select from our delicious antipasti.”

No South Florida hustle. No “get ‘em in, get ’em out” attitude. It is just a plain and simple exquisite dining adventure revolving around the recipes of southern Italy, occasionally tempered with northern Italy variations.

I’ve told you about Carol, so let me mention her even more modest husband, Raul Oliveros. He has been cooking for South Florida diners for the past 28 years from Key West to Orlando. He learned the art of cooking by working with several professional European chefs in New York. He started as a dishwasher and worked himself up to a four-star chef. Raul liked the story of Fra Diavolo so much that he decided to name his restaurant after the legendary character (the story is reprinted on its web site: www. fradiavolorestaurant.com). Raul retired (likely exhausted) in 2003.

Finally and clearly not least, the third partner and now head chef is Diego Cruz, who has been cooking in South Florida since 1985. In 1999, after working for Raul at another location for eight years, Diego moved to Fra Diavolo. When Raul retired in 2003, Diego became the head chef.

Our waiter for the evening and, I may add, an extraordinary professional, was Alain. We had fun speaking French in this Italian fantasyland. In whatever language, the foods he served us transcended borders, cultures, apprehensions, and all previous experiences. If you are a Barolo aficionado, Fra Diavolo has Fontanafredda, which is, to this critic, the finest wine for this style anywhere in the world. While this is a more expensive wine, Fra Diavolo has wines for every taste and every price point.

We began with cappe di funghi, which are stuffed mushroom caps with seafood. They were decadent – sweet, moist, flavorful, and almost impossible to stop eating. We followed these appetizers with yet more appetizers (why not?), including clams casino baked with pimento, capers, prosciutto, and also clams oregante, which are baked in olive oil, oregano, and bread crumbs. Another appetizer we devoured was mozzarella caprese for two, which is big enough for three or four.

I was “forced” to move on to our main courses and chose to experience genuine (as in NOT a patty) veal forestiera, which is prepared with baby artichoke hearts, mushrooms, lemon, butter, and white wine sauce. We also had veal sorrentina served with eggplant, prosciutto, mozzarella, herbs, white wine, demi-glace sauce, and a touch of marinara. Each of these magnificent dishes was the tenderest of tender veal selections, and while I always hope the baby cows were raised humanely, I review the dishes for my readers who have no objection. If readers have no objection, this is the veal for you.

If you regularly read this column, you know I don’t like chicken breast. In fact, I don’t like white meat in general. My guests sampled the chicken cacciatore prepared with mushrooms, tomatoes, peppers, onions, and garlic.

How could I review Fra Diavolo and not sample shrimp Fra Diavolo? Here it is the sweetest, moistest shrimp available on the daily market and garnished with mussels and clams, basil, garlic, and marinara sauce, hot or mild. Certainly, this dish is worthy to carry the restaurant’s name.

Lastly, DESSERT! Have each one — PLEASE.

 

Carol bakes everything on the premises and, if she wrote a dessert recipe book, it would be a best seller for decades to come. Do NOT miss dessert. The menu includes Carol’s whiskey cake, cannoli, spumoni, and Italian cheesecake, among other offerings.

Fra Diavolo is my newest frequent Italian restaurant. It is sure to be yours as well.

BY Charles Marcanetti

June 2011

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The Addison

A Boca Raton Fine Dining Establishment

There are only three real choices in fine dining:

1. Go to an upscale eatery and select from its sophisticated menu and get served by professional wait staff in a well-appointed environment.

2. Hire a gourmet private chef to come to your home, club or facility to oversee, create and prepare the evening’s fare, subject to your choices, whims and fancies.

3. Do it yourself at home, if you have the talent, ability and everything you need.

What if, though, you were to desire hosting an affair with dozens of people, or even hundreds of people, and you wanted haute cuisine with all the concomitant attention, nuance and subtlety of a private, intimate gathering? What if the affair was with just two of you and you wanted what amounted to a private chef for the evening? Does a facility exist that accommodates private parties from two to 400, which can serve dozens of secluded small dining areas and relatively large functions such as balls, bar mitzvahs, and weddings in a manner equal to or better than any strictly restaurant or any strictly catering facility?

Is there an eatery that is a haute cuisine catering facility and an intimate reservations-only restaurant, where not only the few restaurant patrons are spoiled with near-perfect everything, but the folks attending the larger functions are equally treated and it is all done at the same time?

The Addison (notice – it doesn’t say “restaurant,” “catering” or “banquet”) is the ONLY very upscale, very private, very near-perfect facility where, based on the reservations you make, you will be secluded in an area where you and your one guest will feel as if you rented an entire restaurant for the evening or you and your many guests will believe that you have entered into a bygone era of the decadent, quiet luxury of old Florida. It is located at 2 East Camino Real in Boca Raton (telephone: 561-372-0568).

You enter the Addison through a courtyard embraced by two huge banyan trees that are hundreds of years old. They cover just enough of the night sky to make one feel safe from the elements and reveal just enough of the night sky to allow for dream-like fantasies. Daytime functions are shaded by these protective giants, opening to a courtyard within a courtyard for exchanging vows or sliding gracefully across the grounds to the sounds of a Viennese waltz provided by your orchestra (or any sounds by any orchestra you retain).

There are comparisons to be made. Sundy House in Delray Beach is beautiful and brings its patrons to 1930s’ Florida. Vizcaya in Miami and the 55-room Flagler Museum in Palm Beach evoke the same yesteryear spirit. But in Boca Raton, in fact in all of Florida, the only such facility is the Addison, offering the finest in luxury surroundings, serviced by consummate professionals, with very haute cuisine.

Several years ago, I reviewed a gourmet, reservations-only restaurant in Boca Raton called Six Tables. That wonderful eatery caters to, as the name implies, only six tables per evening, thus making the guests feel as if they have a private chef (who chooses and creates the evening’s menu). Then there are catering facilities/ restaurant combinations such as Brooks in Boca Raton. There they allow for diners on an à la carte basis, as well as catered parties. The Addison model, however, combines the best of all worlds without sacrificing one iota, one degree of magic.

If you want to surround yourself with what once was, dine on “never tasted tastes like this,” and be treated like there’s no one else, then whether you’re two or 400 in number and you’re willing to accept the price of profound luxury, call the Addison.

It is fruitless to describe our menu for the evening because each item was prepared specifically to our desires. Each of the main courses — the chicken, the fish and the filet mignon — were, not surprisingly, exactly as ordered. The opening salads were gigantic and delicious. The desserts were amazing. The coffee was fresh and a great closing to a rare and very special evening.

Patrick Duffy (executive chef ), Cody Tomczyk (event operations manager) and Jessica Brownstein (event captain) were as gracious as if we entered their own home, but there was never so much as a hint of stuffiness. We were made to feel like royalty and I firmly believe that everyone is treated just the same.

You will not be going to the Addison for a casual dinner or a quick night out. But you will remember each and every visit, whether it’s for your anniversary, Valentine’s Day, special birthday or a large holiday event. The size of the party doesn’t matter, only the goal — perfection.

By Charles Marcanetti

[August 2011]
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Brio

HAVING RE-VISITED MY ARTICLES for the past several years, I noticed that I generally inserted negative undertones to chain or franchise restaurant reviews. I suppose that I am a victim of my own naiveté. I believe that stock recipes in a cookie-cutter decorated restaurant, with a talented but formulaically trained wait staff, cannot be great.

I was and am, quite simply, wrong. While many such restaurants really disappoint, there are some that pleasantly surprise. A case in point is this month’s delightful eatery: Brio Tuscan Grille, with many restaurants around this nation, including one right here in Boca Raton (5050 Town Center Cir #239 at The Shops at Boca Center, 561-392-3777).

When we entered the restaurant, I bumped into an old friend, Steve, who is and should be climbing the management ladder. He promptly seated us in a quiet spot (the restaurant is quite large, so quiet is relative). Next, Jenny, one of the most gracious and professional wait persons we have ever encountered, took command of arranging an ideally timed food delivery, with one perfect dish following another at just the right pace to allow for an enjoyable, non-rushed dinner that gave us time for conversation and comfortable dining.

We began with “primi” (first – duh) and experienced an array of rich but light appetizers: roasted garlic, spinach and artichoke dip, served bubbling hot with Parmesan flatbread. Next up was the chicken and chorizo-stuffed peppers, baby bell peppers stuffed with chicken, chorizo, Parmigiano-Reggiano and topped with Fontina and pesto breadcrumbs, baked until golden brown. Finally, I loved the spicy shrimp with eggplant, pan-seared shrimp in a black pepper cream sauce over Romano-crusted eggplant.

Forgetting the fact that I could stand to lose thirty pounds, I “forced” myself to sample some truly exquisite bruschettas and flatbread. We had bruschetta quattro, which is a taste of four of the bruschettas, all housemade, and then we jumped into the full orders of roasted red pepper bruschetta with fresh basil, Parmigiano-Reggiano and a balsamic drizzle, then roasted tomato and ricotta bruschetta, with fresh basil and a balsamic drizzle, and margherita flatbread made with fresh mozzarella, vine-ripened tomatoes and fresh basil. But my absolute favorites were blackened shrimp and chorizo flatbread made with smoked gouda, basil pesto, green onions, roasted pepper relish and fresh cilantro, and sausage, pepperoni and ricotta flatbread, which is topped with fresh mozzarella and house-made tomato sauce.

The reason I’m listing many more items than usual is that I truly enjoyed these dishes. I’m trying to convey my comfort level by encouraging you to feel confident eating any of the many wonderful creations appearing through – out this extensive menu.

Some other excellent choices are: lasagna Bolognese al forno, oven-baked and layered with authentic Bolognese meat sauce, alfredo, ricotta and mozzarella, or (in my case, AND) chicken Milanese, which is crispy Romano chicken with herb pasta, fresh mozzarella and housemade pomodoro sauce. I love shrimp, so, of course, I had seared shrimp risotto served with fresh basil, peperonata, fire-roasted tomatoes and a pesto drizzle, and grilled shrimp and orzo, which are spicy jumbo shrimp served with orzo, grilled asparagus, zucchini, tomatoes and lemon vinaigrette.

One house specialty is Brio crab and shrimp cakes, which are lump crab and Gulf shrimp cakes with roasted vegetables and creamy horseradish. It should be a specialty, as it was marvelous.

We had a phenomenal meat course of beef and veal where each bite was tender, moist and quite succulent. Try the artichoke-crusted beef medallions or beef medallions with shrimp scampi. The chicken under the brick, grilled salmon and roasted lamb chops artistically represented the chicken, salmon and lamb dishes.

Here’s a rather humble admission from the managers: Brio uses quality, but commercial, pastas. Their strategy is to buy what is best and then to prepare it in a unique way. Homemade pastas could be as good, but if prepared incorrectly or topped with inferior products, it’s a waste. On the other hand, top-quality, store-bought pasta that is handled as a delicacy will always be wonderful. At Brio, all the pastas were so good that I didn’t believe their pedigree, at first.

We closed out our evening with an array of con – science-considerate desserts (portion-controlled), plus one absolutely NOT portion-controlled chocolate cake and some rich and satisfying coffees. Brio is a local place with real Italian treats serving hungry people in a very happy, bright atmosphere. The prices are very reasonable and the parking is easy. I know this will be a regular dining spot for all of us.

By Charles Marcanetti

[March 2012]

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