Tag: wine

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Yes, there are decent sweet wines

Most wine aficionados, geeks, and the pinky lifters look at sweet wines as “syrupy sweet little nonentities” that should not be taken seriously and dismiss them as undrinkable trash. Unfortunately, in some cases, they happen to be right. This country, whose citizens are known to have a monstrous sweet tooth, has been subjected to some incredibly poor sweet wines that have nothing at all to offer them except being an inexpensive, slightly alcoholic, grape flavored, soda pop without the bubbles.

Enter Bordeaux France, the ancestral home of many of the world’s fi nest wines, some of these being sweet wines. These wines are so popular in Europe (more specifically in Russia) that we rarely see them here. Sweet wines, often called Dessert Wines, display all of the charm and character that made the classical Bordeaux wines famous and are once again appearing on our shores. Might I suggest that we drop our sweet win prejudice and give these wines a fair trial?

Just FYI, Château d’Yquem, a Bordeaux sweet wine, was awarded the highest rating a Bordeaux wine can achieve, Premier Cru Supérieur, and sells for $250+ a bottle.

Let’s start by stating one very important point: it is ILLEGAL in every wine producing country of the world to add sugar to wine to sweeten it or increase its alcohol content; in ancient Germany, the penalty was death. Wines are made sweet in Bordeaux when growers take the gamble of losing their entire crop to frost or disease and leave the grapes on the vine long enough to create natural sugars enhanced by a good fungus called botrytis cinerea. The botrytis not only enhances the grape sugars but also adds its desirable and distinctive flavor and aroma to the finished wine.

2015 Château Dauphiné Rondillon 750 ml ($42).
This wine, as do all of the Bordeaux sweet wines, displays a golden color that is almost hypnotizing and eagerly invites the first sip. The aroma is outstanding, displaying wildflowers, citrus, and summer stone fruits. On the palate, the wine presents peaches, honey, crème brûlée, tangerine, and the unmistakably pleasant flavor from the botrytis. These all continue to the finish where they seem to last indefinitely. This is a prime example of a Bordeaux sweetie and may change your mind about sweet wines forever.

2019 Château La Hargue 375 ml ($15).

This wine presents a brilliant golden color and an attractive aroma of exotic fruit, citrus, and vanilla. The aroma proceeds nonstop to the flavor, where it is enhanced by the sweetness. The finish will impress you with its extraordinary length. If you believe that all sweet wines taste the same, the 2019 Château La Hargue will change your mind.

2018 Château Tanesse Palissades 375 ml ($15).

Another melody of a similar tune, however, this one has incorporated the Muscadelle grape into the blend for added interest, depth, and color. This is truly a summer wine as it very prominently displays the aromas of summer  flowers and the light-colored summer fruits. There are hints of citrus, such as tangerine and grapefruit, which carry on to the flavor and then transition to a fresh and fruity, almost overpowering, finish. This wine could be considered the perfect ambassador for sweet Bordeaux wines.

Château la Rame 750 ml ($35).

This wine is the most kaleidoscopic of the quartet, presenting an ever changing experience. Here too, the wine shares similar flavors and aromas to all Bordeaux sweet wines but presents its flavors in a different order, making for even greater interest. It is the summer fruits that take preference over the floral aromas. These fruits carry through to the flavor and are amplified in the finish. This wine, like all of the others presented here, can prove to be the perfect end to a perfect meal.

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You never forget your first

Among the first wines I ever wrote about were those of Wente Vineyards (https://wentevineyards.com). Like a first kiss or first date, I never forgot the occasion and it always lies safe and secure among my cherished memories. Over the years, it has slipped into the background along with some other things that I have learned over my lifetime, but it has never left me.

Years later, it was with great joy that I was privileged to reacquaint myself with my old friend. The big question was, “Would they still be as I remembered them, or had they succumbed to the current ‘bottom line’ business philosophy?” The answer was a resounding NO.

The years have been kind to Wente. The wines I sampled seemed bigger, better, and with greater depth than I remembered. Also impressive, the wines had not taken the popular route and priced themselves into the stratosphere, but instead have remained in the affordable range.

Wente 2018 Livermore  Valley Southern  Hills Cabernet Sauvignon ($20). Let’s begin by saying that this is not one of those cabs that will make you swoon in ecstasy with the first sip. It is a wine that has been made to accompany red meat dishes without overpowering them but will also fit well with many vegan foods. All of the interesting and enticing flavors found in more costly cabernet sauvignon are present in this gem. The lush flavor of berries, ripe cherries, and cassis are underscored by a gentle oak sensation.

The Wente 2018 Livermore Valley Southern Hills Cabernet  Sauvignon is a prime example of a well-made, California cabernet sauvignon. It can proudly hold its head high when compared with other California cabs in the same price range. it will revive your faith in the possibilities of chardonnay.

Wente 2018 Riva Ranch Chardonnay ($22).
This wine is typical of all the wines from Wente — luxurious, well made, and elegant. Throughout the entire process of making this wine, extra care has been taken, from the selection of the grapes to the winemaking procedures. All of this tender care results in an impeccable wine of great character and distinction. This wine features green apple and tropical fruit in both the aroma and flavor. Coupled with this is a positive oak and vanilla flavor. Unlike many of
the lesser chardonnays, this wine has a long, fruity, and captivating finish. Try this wine with seafood as well as almost any poultry-based dishes and I am sure it will revive your faith in the possibilities of chardonnay.

Wente 2018 Morning Fog Chardonnay ($18).
Wente Morning Fog; the name alone says it all. The cool morning fog that blows over the vineyard helps produce the delicate flavors and aromas in a full-flavored chardonnay. All too often, the very sensitive chardonnay grapes get baked by the sun, resulting in higher grape sugar which, in a dry wine, increases the alcohol when fermented to dryness. Too much alcohol then requires some additional processing to reduce it. As a bit of FYI, the fabled chardonnays of France are grown in a district that is about as far north as fine grapes can be grown. This is why there can be massive differences between chardonnays from producer to producer.

The Wente 2018 Morning Fog Chardonnay offers a fine wine at a reasonable price. This wine is heavy with aromas of summer fruits, vanilla, and oak. All of these scents are incorporated into the flavor with an added sensation of big, ripe raisins. Like all of the Wente wines, there is a long and fruity finish that lasts in the mouth for a bit after it has been swallowed. This may not be the wine for wine snobs (it’s not expensive enough for them) but it certainly can fi t the bill anywhere a Chardonnay or a really fine sipping wine is called for.

 

 

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My ‘aha’ moment with Ram’s Gate

It all began with an email from Ram’s Gate Winery announcing the updating and upgrading of their label and website, which proved about as exciting as an email announcing national rutabaga day. (Editor’s note: I resemble that remark.) There was, however, some interest in the name Ram’s Gate Winery as it was a name I had never encountered. Some judicious research turned a question into one of those very pleasant “aha” moments.

Ram’s Gate Winery is located in the Carneros district of Sonoma County California, the place where some of the world’s finest grapes are grown. As you can well imagine, that piqued my interest. I proceeded to order some of their wine and learned that I had missed a winery that, without much fanfare, was producing excellent quality, and not simply “off the shelf” wine, but rather classical art in liquid form.

Ram’s Gate 2019 Rosé ($38). This pink wine captures all of the flavor and aroma nuances of the Pinot Noir grape and then wraps them in the free and open floral style of a rosé. Made from 90% Pinot Noir and 10% Grenache, this wine displays an aroma that will delight the senses as the flavor dances across the palate. Strawberries, raspberries, and pomegranates abound in the aroma while it is citrus which captivates the tongue.

Ram’s Gate Sauvignon Blanc 2019 ($38). Sauvignon Blanc is brought to new heights of excellence in this offering from Ram’s Gate. This wine accentuates all the fruit flavors rarely found in some of the current varieties. Gone are the overpowering grassy flavors and aromas that have always been associated with this wine, and in place are the rich fruit-tastes of nectarine, melon, and mandarin orange. Oak and vanilla are also present as under-flavors as they add their individual charm. If you have tried Sauvignon Blanc in the past and had been turned off by the grassy and vegetative aromas and flavors, try this wine; it is totally different and totally exquisite.

Ram’s Gate 2019 Pinot Blanc ($38). The Pinot Blanc grape has seen little service in the United States. One sip of the Ram’s Gate 2019 Pinot Blanc will have you scratching your head in wonderment as to why this delightful wine has been overlooked. The wine’s calling card is its rich apple, peach, and melon aroma. The flavor mirrors its aroma with a suggestion of honey and a hint of oak sitting gracefully in the background. This is an excellent wine that, because of its rarity, should be sought out and sampled.

Ram’s Gate 2017 Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir ($48). This wine is a true child of California and reflects the fine hand of Ram’s Gate vintners; it opens with the harmonious aroma of currents, cherries, red berries, and pomegranates, accompanied by a hint of incense in the background. The flavor incorporates the elements of the aroma and merges them with blackberries, blueberries, vanilla, and oak, finishing with a fruity and full experience. I cannot say enough about this wine, nor heap enough superlatives. It is a pure delight and can accompany almost everything. If you miss this wine, you will have missed one of the great joys in the wine world.

 Ram’s Gate 2016 Hyde Vineyard Syrah ($70). This wine takes the Syrah grape to new heights and what a “wow” wine it is. Deep and dark in color, it captures the heart and soul of the Syrah grape and all that it offers. Each element making up this wine is massive; it displays a rich and inviting black cherry, plum, blackberry, and coffee aroma. The flavor is expansive and enjoyable, featuring blackberry, coffee, and spice before transitioning to a fruity finish  hat lingers on the palate for a very long time. This is very big in all dimensions; however, I can assure you that I put this wine in the “money well spent”  category.

By Bennet Bodenstein

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Wine Watch: Worthy wines from the Pairing

I believe that the average American consumer has become a little leery of all the stuff they see advertised on TV. Most of it is junk, not worth the “only $19.95, free shipping and we will send you a second one for a small additional fee,” that they advertise.

The wine industry also suffers in a similar way. As a holdover from Prohibition (enacted in 1919), wine companies are still restricted in the ways they may advertise and in the content of those ads. Consumers must, therefore, rely on writers to tell them what is available in the marketplace and give some sort of information on the wine.

With prices on all items rising, consumers will not plunk down their money on something that is totally unknown to them and I truly do not blame them. It is my job to point the wine consumer toward worthy choices that they probably might never have tried without a nudge; consider this a nudge.

The Paring 2017 Pinot Noir ($25)

This is a Pinot Noir of character, stature, and an excellent ambassador of the variety. The aroma is a mélange of strawberries, red raspberries, and black cherries mingled with oak. In the flavor department, the true capabilities of the
Pinot Noir grape is explored to its fullest with black cherries dominating and hints of vanilla with soft oak in the background. The finish remains true to the variety and is long, complex, and if I might add, memorable. As a confirmed Pinot Noir lover, I enjoyed this wine and consider it to be an excellent buy for the money.

The Paring 2017 Chardonnay ($25)

This is a Chardonnay that is definitely made to appeal to the American taste. Big, wide-open, and complex tropical fruit flavors and aromas are the hallmarks of this wine. Pineapple is the most obvious of these tropical flavors and it carries right through to a finish that is soft, creamy, and very smooth. Even if you are a charter member of the ABC club (Anything But Chardonnay), this is a white wine you can drink and enjoy. It is so good that you may even resign from the ABC.

The Paring 2017 Syrah ($25)

If you are a red wine fan, you have probably tried a Syrah and you know what a fine wine it can be; if you have not tried one, you have missed a real treat. The aroma has the variety’s trademark of cherry and raspberry flavors with a spice and oak background. This is a soft and easy to drink wine that can, like a red Zinfandel, accompany a very broad spectrum of foods. The Paring 2017 Syrah wine takes these attributes one step further and raises the variety to new dimensions of opulence. It is an elegant wine of elegant proportions and shows exactly why Syrah wines are gaining in popularity around the world.

The Paring 2017 Sauvignon Blanc ($25)

Sauvignon Blanc grapes can produce wines in the fruity California style or the classical style. The Paring 2017 Sauvignon Blanc lives in both worlds. It has the
grassy component of the classical wines, which has been purposely played down so that the fruitiness of the California style can come through. This effect allows the wine to be served with a wider spectrum of foods, will nicely accompany poultry and the lighter meats as well as seafood, and is a standout as a sipping wine. The quality of this wine belies its very reasonable price.

The Paring 2017 Red ($25)

The name of this wine is really three letters that could portend trouble, RED.
Not knowing the grapes used to make this generic wine could result in one that you may not like. Fear not, this wine is not only good, but it also is remarkable. The components each contribute their own specific flavors and aromas to the final blend in such a way that one variety’s contribution does not overpower another, but harmonizes to produce a delightful wine.

 

By Bennet Bodenstein

 

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Wine Watch: Boutique Cabs offer plenty of body

August 29 is officially National Cabernet Sauvignon day. With that monumental announcement out of the way, let’s look into some above- average cabs. Dotted all over northern California.

Dotted all over northern California there are vineyards.Some small, some large and all of them producing wine. We do know about the “big boys” but what about some of the smaller “Mom and Pop” operations also known as boutique wineries. These smaller producers have hung on throughout all forms of privation from drought, to flood, to freezes, to intensive governmental interference. They have hung on because inside each and every bottle that they produce rests their hearts along with a commitment to produce the best wine possible from the best grapes available.

These wines go far beyond the mass- produced examples of the variety so common in today’s marketplace. In respect for the day, I would like to introduce you to some excellent cabs from wineries you may never have heard of and who produce wines that you will never forget.

All cabs, from the cheapest to the dearest, present the same basic flavors and aromas associated with Cabernet Sauvignon. But the TLC of boutique wineries makes a big difference. The wines I present here all have one facet that more commercial cabs often do not have: body. If you have never tried a wine with body you will be in for an enlightening and very pleasant experience.

Priest Ranch 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon ($50)

The grapes were sourced from the Somerston Estate that produces unique fruit requiring minimal processing. The winemaker allows the grapes to do their thing with little intervention, resulting in a wine that almost made itself and is a pure delight. priestranchwines.com/Shop/Cabernet- Sauvignon

Justin 2017 Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon ($28)

This very fine wine exhibits all of the aroma and flavors that are possible for a Cabernet Sauvignon and does so in almost obscene amounts. Regardless of the price, this is a very fine enjoyable wine. justinwine. com

Mi Sueño 2016 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($75)

Mi Sueño translates as “my dream”, and that is certainly what this wine is, “a dream of a Cab.” Full bodied, full flavored, and made in the old world tradition. This wine, too, covers the entire gamut of possible flavors and aromas all ending in an expansive and definitely memorable finish. misuenowinery. com

Sullivan 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($110)

The fruit was sourced from a 26-acre estate This wine strikes the perfect balance between power and elegance. This is a wine that should be sipped slowly to extend the enjoyment of a very fine wine. This is the most complex of all the cabs I sampled. sullivanwine.com

Dry Creek Valley Iron Slopes Terroir Series ($65)

I must admit that, as is usual, I was impressed by this wine. I must also add that a Dry Creek Valley wine has never disappointed me. This wine is so good that I believe it should be classified as the “Ideal California Cab.” drycreekvineyard.com

Dry Creek Valley 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon ($30)

 

Another gem from Dry Creek Valley Vineyards. This wine is simply the same song performed by a different singer. The wine displays cranberry as the main flavor and aroma followed by a host of other dark summer fruits and berries in the background. This wine is a fine and affordable introduction to the variety and the producer. drycreekvineyard.com

Gamble Family Vineyards 2016 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($60)

Third- generation Napa farmer, Tom Gamble farms approximately 175 acres of vineyards so he has complete control of the grapes. This wine has been made from grapes selected from Tom Gamble’s favorite sites. This is an incredibly enjoyable wine that displays a full spectrum of flavors and aromas as though it should be presented in a golden goblet. I will add that this was the first time that I have sampled a wine from the Gamble Family vineyards, and I can assure you that it will not be my last. gamblefamilyvineyards.com.

 

By Bennet Bodenstein

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Fine wine from a total solar eclipse

It took almost one thousand years for the vineyards in Burgundy, France,
to become dedicated to specific varieties, and it was the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that became the masters of that fiefdom. When winemaking got started in California, the vintners planted anything and everything that they could lay their hands on. Among those early vintners was a faux Hungarian Count, Agoston Haraszthy, who is often credited with bringing to California most of the grape vines that have found a home there.

It has taken our vintners only 150 years and modern science to determine what grows best and where. Once the best locations were determined, American vintners began to make wine. American grapes, however, were not mirror images of their French parents, and winemakers had to discard French winemaking techniques to develop new ways of turning finicky grapes into exceptional wines.

Among the myriad of producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines, only a few have mastered those grapes and are producing outstanding wines. I recently had the privilege to sample some wines from one of those latter-day vintners, Gary Farrell. The grapes for all these wines were picked on August 21, 2017, the day of a total solar eclipse.

2017 Olivet Lane Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($45).

The wine is outstanding and memorable. If you are seeking a carbon copy of a French Montrachet, you will be disappointed, as this wine is
a true child of California. The aroma of apples, peaches, and pears are intertwined with notes of fragrant summer flowers. I believe that this wine will set the stylistic direction for better Chardonnays for years to come.

2017 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($45).

The grapes for this wine were sourced from seven of the top vineyards in the Russian River Valley. The fruit from each vineyard adds its own nuance to the final blend, resulting in a delicately scented and brightly flavored wine. Cherries, both the fruit and the blossoms, dominate the aroma along with vanilla and toasted nuts. This is a wine that should not be taken for granted. It is a grand example of what a fine, well-made California Pinot Noir should be.

2017 Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($35).

This wine was made from the grapes of famous vineyards in the Russian River Valley. The wine displays the aroma of lemon, melon, peach, and pear with hints of green tea, jasmine and two of my personal favorites, arugula and wasabi. These flavors continue on to the finish where they mingle with tropical fruit and apple. This wine has an incomparable and unforgettable silky finish with hints of flavors that I have never before experienced in a Chardonnay.

It is customary to serve white wines slightly chilled. Unfortunately, all too often, the wines are served too cold so their characteristics become muted. If the wine fogs the glass, it is too cold. Twenty minutes in the refrigerator should be more than enough.

 

By Bennet Bodenstein 

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