Wine Watch: Worthy wines from the Pairing

I believe that the average American consumer has become a little leery of all the stuff they see advertised on TV. Most of it is junk, not worth the “only $19.95, free shipping and we will send you a second one for a small additional fee,” that they advertise.

The wine industry also suffers in a similar way. As a holdover from Prohibition (enacted in 1919), wine companies are still restricted in the ways they may advertise and in the content of those ads. Consumers must, therefore, rely on writers to tell them what is available in the marketplace and give some sort of information on the wine.

With prices on all items rising, consumers will not plunk down their money on something that is totally unknown to them and I truly do not blame them. It is my job to point the wine consumer toward worthy choices that they probably might never have tried without a nudge; consider this a nudge.

The Paring 2017 Pinot Noir ($25)

This is a Pinot Noir of character, stature, and an excellent ambassador of the variety. The aroma is a mélange of strawberries, red raspberries, and black cherries mingled with oak. In the flavor department, the true capabilities of the
Pinot Noir grape is explored to its fullest with black cherries dominating and hints of vanilla with soft oak in the background. The finish remains true to the variety and is long, complex, and if I might add, memorable. As a confirmed Pinot Noir lover, I enjoyed this wine and consider it to be an excellent buy for the money.

The Paring 2017 Chardonnay ($25)

This is a Chardonnay that is definitely made to appeal to the American taste. Big, wide-open, and complex tropical fruit flavors and aromas are the hallmarks of this wine. Pineapple is the most obvious of these tropical flavors and it carries right through to a finish that is soft, creamy, and very smooth. Even if you are a charter member of the ABC club (Anything But Chardonnay), this is a white wine you can drink and enjoy. It is so good that you may even resign from the ABC.

The Paring 2017 Syrah ($25)

If you are a red wine fan, you have probably tried a Syrah and you know what a fine wine it can be; if you have not tried one, you have missed a real treat. The aroma has the variety’s trademark of cherry and raspberry flavors with a spice and oak background. This is a soft and easy to drink wine that can, like a red Zinfandel, accompany a very broad spectrum of foods. The Paring 2017 Syrah wine takes these attributes one step further and raises the variety to new dimensions of opulence. It is an elegant wine of elegant proportions and shows exactly why Syrah wines are gaining in popularity around the world.

The Paring 2017 Sauvignon Blanc ($25)

Sauvignon Blanc grapes can produce wines in the fruity California style or the classical style. The Paring 2017 Sauvignon Blanc lives in both worlds. It has the
grassy component of the classical wines, which has been purposely played down so that the fruitiness of the California style can come through. This effect allows the wine to be served with a wider spectrum of foods, will nicely accompany poultry and the lighter meats as well as seafood, and is a standout as a sipping wine. The quality of this wine belies its very reasonable price.

The Paring 2017 Red ($25)

The name of this wine is really three letters that could portend trouble, RED.
Not knowing the grapes used to make this generic wine could result in one that you may not like. Fear not, this wine is not only good, but it also is remarkable. The components each contribute their own specific flavors and aromas to the final blend in such a way that one variety’s contribution does not overpower another, but harmonizes to produce a delightful wine.

 

By Bennet Bodenstein

 

Wine Watch: Boutique Cabs offer plenty of body

August 29 is officially National Cabernet Sauvignon day. With that monumental announcement out of the way, let’s look into some above- average cabs. Dotted all over northern California.

Dotted all over northern California there are vineyards.Some small, some large and all of them producing wine. We do know about the “big boys” but what about some of the smaller “Mom and Pop” operations also known as boutique wineries. These smaller producers have hung on throughout all forms of privation from drought, to flood, to freezes, to intensive governmental interference. They have hung on because inside each and every bottle that they produce rests their hearts along with a commitment to produce the best wine possible from the best grapes available.

These wines go far beyond the mass- produced examples of the variety so common in today’s marketplace. In respect for the day, I would like to introduce you to some excellent cabs from wineries you may never have heard of and who produce wines that you will never forget.

All cabs, from the cheapest to the dearest, present the same basic flavors and aromas associated with Cabernet Sauvignon. But the TLC of boutique wineries makes a big difference. The wines I present here all have one facet that more commercial cabs often do not have: body. If you have never tried a wine with body you will be in for an enlightening and very pleasant experience.

Priest Ranch 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon ($50)

The grapes were sourced from the Somerston Estate that produces unique fruit requiring minimal processing. The winemaker allows the grapes to do their thing with little intervention, resulting in a wine that almost made itself and is a pure delight. priestranchwines.com/Shop/Cabernet- Sauvignon

Justin 2017 Paso Robles Cabernet Sauvignon ($28)

This very fine wine exhibits all of the aroma and flavors that are possible for a Cabernet Sauvignon and does so in almost obscene amounts. Regardless of the price, this is a very fine enjoyable wine. justinwine. com

Mi Sueño 2016 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($75)

Mi Sueño translates as “my dream”, and that is certainly what this wine is, “a dream of a Cab.” Full bodied, full flavored, and made in the old world tradition. This wine, too, covers the entire gamut of possible flavors and aromas all ending in an expansive and definitely memorable finish. misuenowinery. com

Sullivan 2016 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon ($110)

The fruit was sourced from a 26-acre estate This wine strikes the perfect balance between power and elegance. This is a wine that should be sipped slowly to extend the enjoyment of a very fine wine. This is the most complex of all the cabs I sampled. sullivanwine.com

Dry Creek Valley Iron Slopes Terroir Series ($65)

I must admit that, as is usual, I was impressed by this wine. I must also add that a Dry Creek Valley wine has never disappointed me. This wine is so good that I believe it should be classified as the “Ideal California Cab.” drycreekvineyard.com

Dry Creek Valley 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon ($30)

 

Another gem from Dry Creek Valley Vineyards. This wine is simply the same song performed by a different singer. The wine displays cranberry as the main flavor and aroma followed by a host of other dark summer fruits and berries in the background. This wine is a fine and affordable introduction to the variety and the producer. drycreekvineyard.com

Gamble Family Vineyards 2016 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($60)

Third- generation Napa farmer, Tom Gamble farms approximately 175 acres of vineyards so he has complete control of the grapes. This wine has been made from grapes selected from Tom Gamble’s favorite sites. This is an incredibly enjoyable wine that displays a full spectrum of flavors and aromas as though it should be presented in a golden goblet. I will add that this was the first time that I have sampled a wine from the Gamble Family vineyards, and I can assure you that it will not be my last. gamblefamilyvineyards.com.

 

By Bennet Bodenstein

Fine wine from a total solar eclipse

It took almost one thousand years for the vineyards in Burgundy, France,
to become dedicated to specific varieties, and it was the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that became the masters of that fiefdom. When winemaking got started in California, the vintners planted anything and everything that they could lay their hands on. Among those early vintners was a faux Hungarian Count, Agoston Haraszthy, who is often credited with bringing to California most of the grape vines that have found a home there.

It has taken our vintners only 150 years and modern science to determine what grows best and where. Once the best locations were determined, American vintners began to make wine. American grapes, however, were not mirror images of their French parents, and winemakers had to discard French winemaking techniques to develop new ways of turning finicky grapes into exceptional wines.

Among the myriad of producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines, only a few have mastered those grapes and are producing outstanding wines. I recently had the privilege to sample some wines from one of those latter-day vintners, Gary Farrell. The grapes for all these wines were picked on August 21, 2017, the day of a total solar eclipse.

2017 Olivet Lane Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($45).

The wine is outstanding and memorable. If you are seeking a carbon copy of a French Montrachet, you will be disappointed, as this wine is
a true child of California. The aroma of apples, peaches, and pears are intertwined with notes of fragrant summer flowers. I believe that this wine will set the stylistic direction for better Chardonnays for years to come.

2017 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($45).

The grapes for this wine were sourced from seven of the top vineyards in the Russian River Valley. The fruit from each vineyard adds its own nuance to the final blend, resulting in a delicately scented and brightly flavored wine. Cherries, both the fruit and the blossoms, dominate the aroma along with vanilla and toasted nuts. This is a wine that should not be taken for granted. It is a grand example of what a fine, well-made California Pinot Noir should be.

2017 Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($35).

This wine was made from the grapes of famous vineyards in the Russian River Valley. The wine displays the aroma of lemon, melon, peach, and pear with hints of green tea, jasmine and two of my personal favorites, arugula and wasabi. These flavors continue on to the finish where they mingle with tropical fruit and apple. This wine has an incomparable and unforgettable silky finish with hints of flavors that I have never before experienced in a Chardonnay.

It is customary to serve white wines slightly chilled. Unfortunately, all too often, the wines are served too cold so their characteristics become muted. If the wine fogs the glass, it is too cold. Twenty minutes in the refrigerator should be more than enough.

 

By Bennet Bodenstein