Where can you find an island just minutes from downtown Miami? That would be at Key Biscayne, just across the Rickenbacker Causeway from the city. It is Florida’s southernmost barrier island, and it lies between two large parks, Crandon Park and Bill Baggs Cape Florida State Park, the latter which is home to the 19th-century Cape Florida Lighthouse. This key is located between Biscayne Bay and the Atlantic Ocean.
Key Biscayne is a great place for a nice day trip, which I did on a recent Sunday with my fiancé and another couple. I was interested in seeing the sheltered beaches, mangroves, and tropical forest—which features lots of birds, butterflies, and loggerhead turtles—that I’d read about. The island also includes a golf course and an interactive nature center.
Key Biscayne is known for its outdoor activities, including hiking, biking, boating, wind surfing, and water sports. We weren’t going there for those, but did plan to do a nature walk and go up in the historic lighthouse to see the breathtaking views that were advertised.
Driving through downtown Miami and onto the causeway brought sweeping turquoise water views as we motored over the bridge to the island. As we followed the one road (Crandon Blvd.) heading south, we came upon the well-to-do Village of Key Biscayne, which was incorporated June 18, 1991, in the center of the island. From there, we continued on to Bill Baggs park on the key’s southern tip.
A little history: Ponce de Leon named this area “Cape of Florida” when he led the first Spanish expedition to Florida in 1513. Shortly after Florida became a territory of the U.S. in 1821, the island was bought from a local family for $100, and 3 acres were sold to the federal government for $225 for a military reservation. The northern two-thirds of Key Biscayne used to operate as the largest coconut plantation in the continental U.S. The lighthouse was first lit in 1825 by John Dubose, its first keeper. The lighthouse signal served as important navigation to aid and protect ships along the coast. The Cape Florida lighthouse was damaged during the Second Seminole War. A rebuilt tower was completed in 1846, and the lighthouse remains the oldest standing structure in Miami-Dade County.
The day we visited, my friend Susan and I had all intentions of touring inside this lighthouse. It is 109 steps to the top, and we planned to view the beautiful scenery from up on its wraparound balcony. As we waited in line on this hot summer day, we heard the employee stationed at the entrance communicating with another staffer who was at the top of the lighthouse. We were able to make out that there was a woman who had climbed the steps and then gotten lightheaded and was asking for water. The worker on the ground was saying they could only provide ice chips for this visitor’s neck.
I turned to Susan, alarmed, and said that maybe we don’t climb to the top. High heat and walking up steep steps usually don’t create a great situation for me! She agreed, and we headed back to where the others were waiting on a shady bench. The spectacular views would have to wait for a cooler day. Climbing 109 steps in 90-degree weather wasn’t a good idea.
We enjoyed exploring the area around the lighthouse though. We went inside the original lightkeeper’s cottage, read all the signs providing history of the island (including its role in slaves escaping to freedom in the early 1820s), and took a stroll down to one of the beautiful beaches. We did some walking along shaded nature paths. The park also boasts mangrove wetlands, wooden boardwalks, and lots of water views.
We stopped for a late lunch on our way out the causeway, at a restaurant with striking views of Biscayne Bay and the Miami skyline: the landmark Rusty Pelican. It’s a bit of a drive off the causeway to reach this property. Unfortunately, the only place to park there is expensive valet parking, and we were not remotely close to any free lots. The restaurant is very pretty, our food was great, and we loved our view, but they get you twice with the parking.
Another place on the way back along the causeway is a smaller island, Virginia Key, less than a mile from downtown Miami. It features the Miami Seaquarium on its south side, with close-up views of dolphins and marine animals. We didn’t make it there on this trip. Those attractions will be saved for another day.