Category: Dining

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Eduardo de San Angel (Mexican)

WHAT IS MEXICAN INFUSION? I can make it very simple: my mother operated an “infusion” kitchen when we were children. When my mother cooked Hungarian goulash, it had an infusion of Italian. When she cooked potato latkes, they were infused with an Italian flair. The difference at Eduardo’s is a gourmet menu and my mother’s was an “eat this or eat nothing” menu.

At Eduardo de San Angel, we find decidedly gourmet chefs, who are trained in Mexican cuisine, re-creating dishes from around the world. An example is the duck l’Orange — Long Island duckling in a spicy guava syrup and cinnamon-poached pear compote. Out with the French and in with the Mexican – brilliant!

Eduardo de San Angel (and he is a real person, the owner, and the chef ) has an outstandingly international menu that creatively re-organizes famous dishes to reflect a delicate, but enticing, Mexican flair.

Most Mexican restaurants are bright and dance like in their décor. Not Eduardo’s. Here we found a lighting pattern bright enough to know that no one was hiding the food from sight and still soft enough to project a romantic aura. Here walls were not full of Mexican scenes; they were subtle and tasteful, as found in a New England estate home.

But this “estate” was not so large as to lose guests and not so small as to cramp everyone in. This is a fine example of a well-balanced establishment with proper flow, aimed at the customers’ satisfaction. It is balanced against the ease of service and the maximizing of attention to diners. I was quite struck with this eatery and pleased to see that the food presentations were as well-conceived as the environment.

My guests and I are all fans of ceviche. Here, it is prepared with plum tomatoes, sweet onions, and jalapeno peppers, then cilantro-marinated in lime juice and gold tequila. The sashimi-grade loin of yellowfin tuna and the grilled North Atlantic calamari were each treated to Eduardo’s infusion of Mexican spices. They were a perfect segue to one of the tastiest soups ever created. Eduardo’s cilantro soup, while still only a frequent special, is soon to be a regular feature. Do yourselves a favor and ask if it is available.

We sampled homemade ravioli’s (the Italian part of the dish) filled with black beans and fresh cheese (the infusion), which were served with smoked chipotle and toasted walnut cream sauce. We also had the trio of Colorado lamb chops (true American fare), prepared with brushed cilantro-garlic oil, and grilled exotic mushroom tamale, served with a duo of smoked chipotle and green tomatillo (thus making this a great Mexican infusion).

Of course, we also saved room for the restaurant’s special desserts. If one picture is worth a thousand words, take a look at these great pictures, which serve as mouthwatering invitations to a rare dining experience.

EDUARDO DE SAN ANGEL—located at 2822 East Commercial Blvd. (954-772-4731) in Fort Lauderdale, features Mexican-infused international cuisine.

By Charles Marcanetti

December 2011

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Ethos Greek Bistro

Ethos means “character” in Greek. For restaurateur George Pappas, owner of Ethos Greek Bistro in the Promenade at Coconut Creek, it also represents integrity, “your guiding belief.” When Pappas opened Ethos in May 2012 he was responding to his ethos and the needs of the local market. He wanted a restaurant that served fresh and healthful food, in a timely and friendly manner, at a fair price. When I dined there recently I got to see for myself.

My friends and I ordered a variety of dishes – from spreads and salads to lamb and fish dishes – accompanied by elegant libations and finished with dessert, baked in-house.

Standouts are the Rebel Lamb, dips, Shrimp Saganaki (baked in fresh tomato and garlic, topped with barrel-aged feta), Zucchini Croquettes with tzatziki (yogurt and cucumber spread), and chargrilled octopus.

A popular appetizer is dolmades (traditional stuffed grape leaves). Pappas said the staff hand rolls 60,000 a year. My table decided instead to try the spread sampler, which proved to be a good choice. It was served with crusty bread fresh from the oven that my friend Beth called “the perfect dipper.”

The appetizer includes four dips: refreshing tzatziki, creamy feta, tasty hummus, and “eggplant smash” (which resembled its Middle Eastern cousin, baba ganoush) with feta, roasted red peppers, and walnuts. Each of us had a different favorite in the flight of spreads.

My friend Steve’s surf and turf comprised of shrimp saganaki – (delicious, and also available as a small plate) and lamb chops. Steve ordered them to be cooked medium and he loved them, although the piece I tried was a bit rare.

The Ethos Platter has a bit of everything: Greek salad, spinach rice, roasted potatoes, grilled pita, and yogurt sauce with a choice of vegetable or protein, such as chicken, gyro, pork tenderloin, or kefte (lamb meatballs). My dinner companions ordered Faroe Islands Salmon and Bronzini (described on the menu as Greek sea bass) as their entrees, which they enjoyed.

My dish was Rebel Lamb, which might be unfamiliar to readers (but well worth trying) even though it has been around for more than a century. The dish goes back to the Ottoman Rule when Greeks hid in the mountains and would steal a lamb for food. They needed to cook it, but building a fire brings smoke that will reveal their hiding spot. So the rebels developed a slow-cooking method of sealing the meat and other ingredients in a clay pot and burying it with hot coals, allowing it to braise slowly. Today, Ethos uses New Zealand lamb and parchment paper, baked in an oven to get the same effect. Braising tenderizes the meat but I did not expect it to be this tender and have so much flavor – it was perfection.

The full drink menu has everything from wine and martinis to the classic Greek retsina and signature drinks with a Greek twist. Try the Mykonos Mule or Mastiha Cosmo made with a Greek liquor called Mastiha (pronounced mas-tee-ka or mas-tee-ha), which is made from the sap of a tree on the coast of Chios. I was surprised by its refreshing flavor and my friend Beth found it to be the perfect complement to the meal – in fact, she said it was her favorite part. A lighter version of ouzo, Mastiha’s licorice base is quieted by the other ingredients in mixed drinks.

The goal is to have the food served within seven to eight minutes of ordering lunch; 12 minutes at dinner. So you might not wait once you’re seated, but be prepared to wait a bit for a table on Friday or Saturday nights. Being in an open mall, Ethos attracts many shoppers. But the good part is you can walk around the Promenade while waiting.

Desserts are made in-house. “You can have an amazing meal, but if there is no wow at the end, it won’t be as memorable,” Pappas said. “Dessert must wow.”

Sweets include baklava, and lesser-known Greek favorites Ekmek and Galakto Fantastico, both made with phyllo dough and custard. My favorite was the exquisite Triple Layer Cheesecake, dressed with walnuts, shredded phyllo, and topped with Belgian chocolate ganache. Wow indeed.

Within the Promenade, Pappas also owns Ciao Cucina and Bar, as well as another Ethos location in Wilton Manors. He has a business plan to open six more restaurants in South Florida in the next five years.

“When you try to deliver food that is healthful, fresh, and tasty, coupled with good service at a fair price, often something will be lacking,” said Pappas, who was raised in Crete. “It is hard to put it all together. We work very hard to accomplish that here.”

No Zorba Here

Traditional Greek restaurants often make me think of waiters dancing the syrtaki, shoulder to shoulder, and breaking plates (on purpose) with a festive “Opa!” Owner George Pappas didn’t want his establishment to be “that Greek restaurant.”

There is no blue and white Greek-style lettering, no dancing on the tables, no breaking dishes, no scattered napkins, and no waiters dancing with their hands on each other’s shoulders in a line. (I picture Anthony Quinn in Zorba the Greek and immediately hear the movie’s iconic theme.)

Pappas, 45, is proud to offer both traditional and modernized food and drink in a minimalist setting. He sees this more as catering to a local market – from Aventura to Boca – that wants a menu offering fresh and healthy dishes.

by Linda Brockman

March 2018

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Fra Diavolo

Just south of the University/Commercial intersection on the east side of the road is a restaurant that advertises its quality right on the marquee. The sign says Fra Diavolo with four large stars. That sign is an understatement in a marvelously understated masterpiece of an elegant restaurant.

Fra Diavolo is located at 5444 N. University Dr. in Lauderhill (954-746-3132). It is adorably decorated in what can only be described as a “very European motif,” subtle, warm, and inviting so that customers linger for more than a little while.

It’s relatively small, seating roughly eighty people. That is what gives it the intimacy so sorely lacking in most South Florida eateries. Yet, the tables aren’t crowded close to each other to get as many customers as fire codes allow. The restaurant maintains balance and caters to the discerning palate. You would imagine, and with some obvious justification, that the restaurant would make up for the small number of seats with exorbitant prices. If you did, like me, you’d be absolutely wrong. The prices are embarrassingly low for what you receive.

It has been at the same location and under the same ownership for nineteen years. Carol Oliveros rarely takes credit for creating this eatery. She points to her partners and chefs and wait staff as the backbone of the operation. They are clearly critical for their success.

But let’s give credit where credit is due. Carol puts in seven-day weeks (even though the restaurant is closed on Mondays, Carol still has the cleaning, ordering, preparing, and shopping, among other tasks). The result of her care is a smoothly running, effortless to-watch, perfection of an ultra-high quality dining experience – night in and night out.

Please believe me when I say that I am not searching for my favorite adjectives just to show off my command of the language. I am trying, with my limited ability, to get you all to try this place once on my say-so. You will become a customer.

To create the wonderful dishes takes time and Fra Diavolo lets its customers know from the outset so that there is no misunderstanding. Menus state: “Every day at Fra Diavolo, meals are prepared fresh to order. It takes at least 20 to 35 minutes to prepare your entree, so please be patient and enjoy some wine or select from our delicious antipasti.”

No South Florida hustle. No “get ‘em in, get ’em out” attitude. It is just a plain and simple exquisite dining adventure revolving around the recipes of southern Italy, occasionally tempered with northern Italy variations.

I’ve told you about Carol, so let me mention her even more modest husband, Raul Oliveros. He has been cooking for South Florida diners for the past 28 years from Key West to Orlando. He learned the art of cooking by working with several professional European chefs in New York. He started as a dishwasher and worked himself up to a four-star chef. Raul liked the story of Fra Diavolo so much that he decided to name his restaurant after the legendary character (the story is reprinted on its web site: www. fradiavolorestaurant.com). Raul retired (likely exhausted) in 2003.

Finally and clearly not least, the third partner and now head chef is Diego Cruz, who has been cooking in South Florida since 1985. In 1999, after working for Raul at another location for eight years, Diego moved to Fra Diavolo. When Raul retired in 2003, Diego became the head chef.

Our waiter for the evening and, I may add, an extraordinary professional, was Alain. We had fun speaking French in this Italian fantasyland. In whatever language, the foods he served us transcended borders, cultures, apprehensions, and all previous experiences. If you are a Barolo aficionado, Fra Diavolo has Fontanafredda, which is, to this critic, the finest wine for this style anywhere in the world. While this is a more expensive wine, Fra Diavolo has wines for every taste and every price point.

We began with cappe di funghi, which are stuffed mushroom caps with seafood. They were decadent – sweet, moist, flavorful, and almost impossible to stop eating. We followed these appetizers with yet more appetizers (why not?), including clams casino baked with pimento, capers, prosciutto, and also clams oregante, which are baked in olive oil, oregano, and bread crumbs. Another appetizer we devoured was mozzarella caprese for two, which is big enough for three or four.

I was “forced” to move on to our main courses and chose to experience genuine (as in NOT a patty) veal forestiera, which is prepared with baby artichoke hearts, mushrooms, lemon, butter, and white wine sauce. We also had veal sorrentina served with eggplant, prosciutto, mozzarella, herbs, white wine, demi-glace sauce, and a touch of marinara. Each of these magnificent dishes was the tenderest of tender veal selections, and while I always hope the baby cows were raised humanely, I review the dishes for my readers who have no objection. If readers have no objection, this is the veal for you.

If you regularly read this column, you know I don’t like chicken breast. In fact, I don’t like white meat in general. My guests sampled the chicken cacciatore prepared with mushrooms, tomatoes, peppers, onions, and garlic.

How could I review Fra Diavolo and not sample shrimp Fra Diavolo? Here it is the sweetest, moistest shrimp available on the daily market and garnished with mussels and clams, basil, garlic, and marinara sauce, hot or mild. Certainly, this dish is worthy to carry the restaurant’s name.

Lastly, DESSERT! Have each one — PLEASE.

 

Carol bakes everything on the premises and, if she wrote a dessert recipe book, it would be a best seller for decades to come. Do NOT miss dessert. The menu includes Carol’s whiskey cake, cannoli, spumoni, and Italian cheesecake, among other offerings.

Fra Diavolo is my newest frequent Italian restaurant. It is sure to be yours as well.

BY Charles Marcanetti

June 2011

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Coco Asian Bistro & Bar

Sometimes, in a world full of glamour for the sake of glamour and glitter to shine away the emptiness of reality, I come across a truly remarkable eatery. Coco Asian Bistro & Bar is just such a place. While it is gorgeous in an understated way, with no detail overlooked and quality even where most people would never expect, it is also the clear leader in Asian Fusion fare. The food is so far above the competition, it is safe to say there is no competition.

In no given order: the Coconut Soup is the absolute best I have ever had…anywhere. The Rack of Lamb and the Filet Mignon were so tender as to seem unreal. The Chilean Sea Bass was so sweet you’d think it was candy and the Duck Breast was succulent to the point of decadence.

Let’s start at the very beginning. Our waiter, destined to be a famous clothing designer, was Yord, a young, wonderfully polite and efficient individual who comes from the same small town in Thailand as owner, Michael Ponluang. With them, came some of the most scrumptious recipes in all of Asian cooking. Let me give you a little background on Ponluang, owner and executive chef. He has traveled the world, learning and teaching elegant Thai food preparation. In 1980,Chef Ponluang moved to Fort Lauderdale and, to the delight of their patrons, he served as a chef at the Lighthouse Point Yacht Club. In 1991, he opened the successful Coral Springs restaurant Thai Pepper, which he owned for 15 years. Michael has also served as a Thai food instructor at Chef Jean-Pierre’s Cooking School and he has studied at a sushi academy in Venice,California. He opened this masterpiece in April 2006.

He decided to give his patrons choices in spice intensity. Most of the foods are served with two or three sauces ranging from the mild to extreme Asian heat. Let me explain: Latin heat is hot and stays hot(think chili),but Asian heat is hot and dissipates quickly (think wasabi). So, please experiment.

I always start my Asian dining with some warm Sake… here they serve only the finest, extra premium Sake, which means no matter how much one drinks, it holds its flavor and body. I know that’s true because I always try to see how long it will take before the flavor changes. I never win and I love that I lose.

When I’m in Paris,I usually make one complete meal of Vietnamese Fresh Rolls.

It seems the Vietnamese –French really know how to blend the ingredients perfectly and until now, I haven’t met anyone who can do it as well, or even better. Chef Michael’s recipe surpasses even the finest Paris has to offer. His consists of Cooked Shrimp, Imitation Crab meat, Cucumbers, Bean Sprouts, Lettuce, Rice Noodles and Basil wrapped in Thin Rice Paper and served with a Sweet Chili Sauce. I easily could have made a meal of this but I wanted to sample so many other delicacies, I forced myself to be moderate.

I also had the Papaya Salad prepared with Shrimp,Soft Shell Crab,Dried Shrimp,Shredded Green Papaya (very rare and incredibly fantastic), Carrots, String Beans, Lime Juice and Tomato. This treat is like no other we have recently encountered and, if you choose this dish, you’ll be raving about it as well.

I devoured the Conch and Octopus Sunomono, which consists of Sliced Conch, Octopus and Cucumbers in Sweet Vinegar. You will also.

I mentioned three remarkable main dishes already, and I add to that the Pad Thai for two reasons: I was morally obligated to sample a truly traditional dish from Chef Michael’s homeland, and I love rice noodles. It was wonderful and truly authentic.

I cannot and will not stop bragging about this place. It is sure to impress you and your guests. Chef Michael and his great staff are sure to instill in you a desire to return, and I predict, you will.

By Charles Marcanetti

[October 2009]

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Casa Tequila

It’s 1958, a small West Coast studio band quickly records a song with only one word in it, and for the next 16 weeks, most of which were at number 1 on the charts, America listened to the Champs’ smash hit, Tequila!

Now, today, I offer you all one word to brighten your lunch or dinner, and no, I am not saying you should drink your meal, I am saying the word is “Tequila!” I am recommending the Casa Tequila in Coral Springs (and, if the other Casa Tequilas are just as good, they will also be a delight for you).

As with so many Mexican restaurants, customers dine in a party-like atmosphere. There’s upbeat music playing, the décor is “happy” and the dining floor is bright but not overpowering. The entire eatery is spotlessly clean and there is plenty of room between tables, so there’s no claustrophobia, clamoring, or overhearing your neighbors.

Casa Tequila has a great mixed drink menu and they absolutely know how to prepare each one expertly (especially the ones with, shall I say it, tequila). Being a rebel though, I had the Mojito (rum based) and it was delicious.

Our waiter for the evening was Ever, who was ever-present and ever invisible; a perfect blend. He helped us understand what each dish was and what degree of spiciness each had (though each dish can be adjusted to suit each patron’s pallet). Casa Tequila makes several soups “to order” and “from scratch” and with that boast I decided to put them to the test. I ordered the Seafood Soup, which is made with shrimp, scallops, crab legs, fish, octopus, and vegetables, served in a mellow briny-broth with fresh tomatoes, onions, and cilantro. It was perfect.

I ordered the Ceviche Salad made with shrimp cooked in fresh lime juice with onion, cilantro, tomatoes, and mango. I love Ceviche. Casa Tequila’s is properly called a salad because it is thin, cool, and crisp. You will want to drink the remaining liquid (I did) and, since it is light, there will still be plenty of room for the “real” food.

Our waiter, Ever, next recommended the fresh Guacamole. I thought fresh meant made with avocado bought that day. Actually it does, but at Casa Tequila it also means created right before your eyes, at your table, using whole avocados, tomatoes, cilantro, onions, fresh lime juice, and other spices prepared as entertainment much like a Hibachi chef would do in a Japanese restaurant. Thoroughly enjoyable, titillating multiple senses.

The Taco Salad, which is a traditional Mexican starter, is made in a crispy flour tortilla shell with ground beef, chicken, or picadillo and we all loved it.

I can also recommend the steak or chicken fajitas made in a sizzling skillet and served with sautéed vegetables.

We tried (and loved) the Dos Amigos which is either grilled carne asada or pollo asada and comes accompanied with four shrimps wrapped in bacon. Of course they come with rice, beans, and sour cream.

Since I was reviewing a Mexican restaurant I tried those dishes that are called traditional and the Quesa Tacos (3) made with melted cheese, carne asada, specially seasoned, served with whole beans and homemade hot sauce is fabulous.

My confession for the month is that I love burritos. I eat them all the time. If they were not good I would tell you. The burritos at Casa Tequila are wonderful. They are somewhat spiced and, unlike the bland burritos served in many so-called Mexican restaurants (to accommodate the American tastes, or, so we’re told), these have a little kick. To me, if you are offering a certain type of food it should be offered as it is meant to be made, not simplified for this pallet or that pallet. It is the job of the chef to educate the customer. It will result in a loyal following and grateful diners. I am completely sold on the ones offered here.

My standard burrito fare is Burrito Relleno made using a soft flour tortilla filled with chile relleno, rice, and beans, and covered with enchilada sauce of chopped tomatoes then sprinkled with Parmesan cheese. You should try different ones even though these are my favorites. Go ahead, experiment. Gamble. Venture into unexplored territory. The burritos are very special and your experience will be worth it.

The desserts are a fabulous end to an enjoyable evening, whether it’s the apple chimichanga, flan, or fried ice cream, your sweet tooth will be sated. I will return to Casa Tequila whenever I am anywhere near the Magnolia Shoppes in Coral Springs. Join me. Tequila!

Casa Tequila, 9617 Westview Drive, Coral Springs, FL 954-340-4611.

By Charles Marcanetti

[November 2016]

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The Addison

A Boca Raton Fine Dining Establishment

There are only three real choices in fine dining:

1. Go to an upscale eatery and select from its sophisticated menu and get served by professional wait staff in a well-appointed environment.

2. Hire a gourmet private chef to come to your home, club or facility to oversee, create and prepare the evening’s fare, subject to your choices, whims and fancies.

3. Do it yourself at home, if you have the talent, ability and everything you need.

What if, though, you were to desire hosting an affair with dozens of people, or even hundreds of people, and you wanted haute cuisine with all the concomitant attention, nuance and subtlety of a private, intimate gathering? What if the affair was with just two of you and you wanted what amounted to a private chef for the evening? Does a facility exist that accommodates private parties from two to 400, which can serve dozens of secluded small dining areas and relatively large functions such as balls, bar mitzvahs, and weddings in a manner equal to or better than any strictly restaurant or any strictly catering facility?

Is there an eatery that is a haute cuisine catering facility and an intimate reservations-only restaurant, where not only the few restaurant patrons are spoiled with near-perfect everything, but the folks attending the larger functions are equally treated and it is all done at the same time?

The Addison (notice – it doesn’t say “restaurant,” “catering” or “banquet”) is the ONLY very upscale, very private, very near-perfect facility where, based on the reservations you make, you will be secluded in an area where you and your one guest will feel as if you rented an entire restaurant for the evening or you and your many guests will believe that you have entered into a bygone era of the decadent, quiet luxury of old Florida. It is located at 2 East Camino Real in Boca Raton (telephone: 561-372-0568).

You enter the Addison through a courtyard embraced by two huge banyan trees that are hundreds of years old. They cover just enough of the night sky to make one feel safe from the elements and reveal just enough of the night sky to allow for dream-like fantasies. Daytime functions are shaded by these protective giants, opening to a courtyard within a courtyard for exchanging vows or sliding gracefully across the grounds to the sounds of a Viennese waltz provided by your orchestra (or any sounds by any orchestra you retain).

There are comparisons to be made. Sundy House in Delray Beach is beautiful and brings its patrons to 1930s’ Florida. Vizcaya in Miami and the 55-room Flagler Museum in Palm Beach evoke the same yesteryear spirit. But in Boca Raton, in fact in all of Florida, the only such facility is the Addison, offering the finest in luxury surroundings, serviced by consummate professionals, with very haute cuisine.

Several years ago, I reviewed a gourmet, reservations-only restaurant in Boca Raton called Six Tables. That wonderful eatery caters to, as the name implies, only six tables per evening, thus making the guests feel as if they have a private chef (who chooses and creates the evening’s menu). Then there are catering facilities/ restaurant combinations such as Brooks in Boca Raton. There they allow for diners on an à la carte basis, as well as catered parties. The Addison model, however, combines the best of all worlds without sacrificing one iota, one degree of magic.

If you want to surround yourself with what once was, dine on “never tasted tastes like this,” and be treated like there’s no one else, then whether you’re two or 400 in number and you’re willing to accept the price of profound luxury, call the Addison.

It is fruitless to describe our menu for the evening because each item was prepared specifically to our desires. Each of the main courses — the chicken, the fish and the filet mignon — were, not surprisingly, exactly as ordered. The opening salads were gigantic and delicious. The desserts were amazing. The coffee was fresh and a great closing to a rare and very special evening.

Patrick Duffy (executive chef ), Cody Tomczyk (event operations manager) and Jessica Brownstein (event captain) were as gracious as if we entered their own home, but there was never so much as a hint of stuffiness. We were made to feel like royalty and I firmly believe that everyone is treated just the same.

You will not be going to the Addison for a casual dinner or a quick night out. But you will remember each and every visit, whether it’s for your anniversary, Valentine’s Day, special birthday or a large holiday event. The size of the party doesn’t matter, only the goal — perfection.

By Charles Marcanetti

[August 2011]
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Brio

HAVING RE-VISITED MY ARTICLES for the past several years, I noticed that I generally inserted negative undertones to chain or franchise restaurant reviews. I suppose that I am a victim of my own naiveté. I believe that stock recipes in a cookie-cutter decorated restaurant, with a talented but formulaically trained wait staff, cannot be great.

I was and am, quite simply, wrong. While many such restaurants really disappoint, there are some that pleasantly surprise. A case in point is this month’s delightful eatery: Brio Tuscan Grille, with many restaurants around this nation, including one right here in Boca Raton (5050 Town Center Cir #239 at The Shops at Boca Center, 561-392-3777).

When we entered the restaurant, I bumped into an old friend, Steve, who is and should be climbing the management ladder. He promptly seated us in a quiet spot (the restaurant is quite large, so quiet is relative). Next, Jenny, one of the most gracious and professional wait persons we have ever encountered, took command of arranging an ideally timed food delivery, with one perfect dish following another at just the right pace to allow for an enjoyable, non-rushed dinner that gave us time for conversation and comfortable dining.

We began with “primi” (first – duh) and experienced an array of rich but light appetizers: roasted garlic, spinach and artichoke dip, served bubbling hot with Parmesan flatbread. Next up was the chicken and chorizo-stuffed peppers, baby bell peppers stuffed with chicken, chorizo, Parmigiano-Reggiano and topped with Fontina and pesto breadcrumbs, baked until golden brown. Finally, I loved the spicy shrimp with eggplant, pan-seared shrimp in a black pepper cream sauce over Romano-crusted eggplant.

Forgetting the fact that I could stand to lose thirty pounds, I “forced” myself to sample some truly exquisite bruschettas and flatbread. We had bruschetta quattro, which is a taste of four of the bruschettas, all housemade, and then we jumped into the full orders of roasted red pepper bruschetta with fresh basil, Parmigiano-Reggiano and a balsamic drizzle, then roasted tomato and ricotta bruschetta, with fresh basil and a balsamic drizzle, and margherita flatbread made with fresh mozzarella, vine-ripened tomatoes and fresh basil. But my absolute favorites were blackened shrimp and chorizo flatbread made with smoked gouda, basil pesto, green onions, roasted pepper relish and fresh cilantro, and sausage, pepperoni and ricotta flatbread, which is topped with fresh mozzarella and house-made tomato sauce.

The reason I’m listing many more items than usual is that I truly enjoyed these dishes. I’m trying to convey my comfort level by encouraging you to feel confident eating any of the many wonderful creations appearing through – out this extensive menu.

Some other excellent choices are: lasagna Bolognese al forno, oven-baked and layered with authentic Bolognese meat sauce, alfredo, ricotta and mozzarella, or (in my case, AND) chicken Milanese, which is crispy Romano chicken with herb pasta, fresh mozzarella and housemade pomodoro sauce. I love shrimp, so, of course, I had seared shrimp risotto served with fresh basil, peperonata, fire-roasted tomatoes and a pesto drizzle, and grilled shrimp and orzo, which are spicy jumbo shrimp served with orzo, grilled asparagus, zucchini, tomatoes and lemon vinaigrette.

One house specialty is Brio crab and shrimp cakes, which are lump crab and Gulf shrimp cakes with roasted vegetables and creamy horseradish. It should be a specialty, as it was marvelous.

We had a phenomenal meat course of beef and veal where each bite was tender, moist and quite succulent. Try the artichoke-crusted beef medallions or beef medallions with shrimp scampi. The chicken under the brick, grilled salmon and roasted lamb chops artistically represented the chicken, salmon and lamb dishes.

Here’s a rather humble admission from the managers: Brio uses quality, but commercial, pastas. Their strategy is to buy what is best and then to prepare it in a unique way. Homemade pastas could be as good, but if prepared incorrectly or topped with inferior products, it’s a waste. On the other hand, top-quality, store-bought pasta that is handled as a delicacy will always be wonderful. At Brio, all the pastas were so good that I didn’t believe their pedigree, at first.

We closed out our evening with an array of con – science-considerate desserts (portion-controlled), plus one absolutely NOT portion-controlled chocolate cake and some rich and satisfying coffees. Brio is a local place with real Italian treats serving hungry people in a very happy, bright atmosphere. The prices are very reasonable and the parking is easy. I know this will be a regular dining spot for all of us.

By Charles Marcanetti

[March 2012]

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Fine wine from a total solar eclipse

It took almost one thousand years for the vineyards in Burgundy, France,
to become dedicated to specific varieties, and it was the Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that became the masters of that fiefdom. When winemaking got started in California, the vintners planted anything and everything that they could lay their hands on. Among those early vintners was a faux Hungarian Count, Agoston Haraszthy, who is often credited with bringing to California most of the grape vines that have found a home there.

It has taken our vintners only 150 years and modern science to determine what grows best and where. Once the best locations were determined, American vintners began to make wine. American grapes, however, were not mirror images of their French parents, and winemakers had to discard French winemaking techniques to develop new ways of turning finicky grapes into exceptional wines.

Among the myriad of producers of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay wines, only a few have mastered those grapes and are producing outstanding wines. I recently had the privilege to sample some wines from one of those latter-day vintners, Gary Farrell. The grapes for all these wines were picked on August 21, 2017, the day of a total solar eclipse.

2017 Olivet Lane Vineyard Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($45).

The wine is outstanding and memorable. If you are seeking a carbon copy of a French Montrachet, you will be disappointed, as this wine is
a true child of California. The aroma of apples, peaches, and pears are intertwined with notes of fragrant summer flowers. I believe that this wine will set the stylistic direction for better Chardonnays for years to come.

2017 Russian River Valley Pinot Noir ($45).

The grapes for this wine were sourced from seven of the top vineyards in the Russian River Valley. The fruit from each vineyard adds its own nuance to the final blend, resulting in a delicately scented and brightly flavored wine. Cherries, both the fruit and the blossoms, dominate the aroma along with vanilla and toasted nuts. This is a wine that should not be taken for granted. It is a grand example of what a fine, well-made California Pinot Noir should be.

2017 Russian River Valley Chardonnay ($35).

This wine was made from the grapes of famous vineyards in the Russian River Valley. The wine displays the aroma of lemon, melon, peach, and pear with hints of green tea, jasmine and two of my personal favorites, arugula and wasabi. These flavors continue on to the finish where they mingle with tropical fruit and apple. This wine has an incomparable and unforgettable silky finish with hints of flavors that I have never before experienced in a Chardonnay.

It is customary to serve white wines slightly chilled. Unfortunately, all too often, the wines are served too cold so their characteristics become muted. If the wine fogs the glass, it is too cold. Twenty minutes in the refrigerator should be more than enough.

 

By Bennet Bodenstein 

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Macarons – delightful treats

There are two types of people in the world.  Ones who have experienced macarons, and ones who have not.  Macarons are a sweet cookie, made with meringue.  For most of us who are not pastry chefs, meringue is made from egg whites, sugar, and in the case with macarons, almond meal is also added.

 

Pastries require careful preparation and are often impacted by the humidity and temperature we experience here in South Florida.  This is only one of the reasons pastries are something I enjoy but rarely attempt to make myself.

Macarons originated in Italy during the middle ages.  It was brought to France by Catherine de’ Medici, the Queen of France and of the famed Renaissance family origin.  It’s the french variety that has gotten famous over the years, and the Ladurée chain of bakeries have been spreading the luxury dessert across the world for the past 150 years.

It was at one of the Ladurée bakeries that Susan Mallow, owner of Bon Macarons Made with Love in Coral Springs, first experienced a Macaron with one of her daughters.  Susan decided to attempt to bake these treats right here in Coral Springs, and it took a lot of trial and error before she felt it was perfect.

Biting into one of these locally made strawberry and cream macarons, you feel the cookie resist slightly then give way.  It’s sweet, but not overly so, and the flavors from fresh strawberries come alive, and blend well with the Russian butter.  There are a wide variety of flavors to choose from, including chocolate brownies, peanut butter and jelly (PBJ), ganache, mocha, espresso coffee, and vanilla bean.  

Each macaron sells for $1-$3 depending on size and ingredients, and is a wonderful treat.  If you want to try to make it yourself, Susan will be happy to share her recipe, but be prepared for some hard work whipping the egg whites, and some trial and error to adapt to your oven.  She will also be offering virtual classes soon, for those who are interested.

 

Contact Susan via instagram @bonmacarons_

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Celebrating Turkey Day on a Castle

by Victoria Landis

castleIf you carve your Thanksgiving turkey in a galvanized tub while wearing cargo shorts and sitting on a stool on a flat castle roof, you might be a unique kind of redneck.

For 16 years, I hosted Thanksgiving dinner, usually for 10 to 12 people. I skew toward a medium-formal setting when I host; placemats, napkins, matching silverware, a table centerpiece, but nothing too Martha Stewart-y. But last year, I needed a break from the two full days of dawn-to-dusk cleaning, prepping, and cooking. So I made my cancellation announcement to the normal invitees, withstood some loud, and withering complaints, then my significant other and I headed south. Since we were lucky enough to be in the Florida Keys, we were invited to partake of the annual feast at the home of an acquaintance of the SO’s.

They were so kind to include us, and we gratefully accepted. I brought a big bottle of Pinot Grigio, and a from-scratch apple pie. We arrived at 3pm, as requested. They lived in an unusual place: A fake medieval castle. Yeppers. Had the notched parapet wall at the top and everything. A souvenir shop occupied the ground floor, and although there was no way to tell from the outside, the second floor had four apartments.

We trudged up the exterior stairs, knocked on the first door, and found 13 other people crammed into a teensy apartment without a table. There was a small living area that barely fit a sofa and side chair. and The television stand was flanked by a miniature kitchen with maybe a total of eight-feet of counter space.

Now, don’t get me wrong, I’m not putting my hosts down for being obviously economically challenged. But imagine our head-scratching, trying to figure out how they planned to feed us. There wasn’t space for each of us to actually sit anywhere. I wondered if their good intentions hadn’t been thought through.

The tiny kitchen had every available inch covered with various foods in the making, ingredients, dirty prep dishes, and booze bottles, since it also functioned as the bar. I opened my Pinot Grigio, poured a generous amount into a red plastic cup, and asked if I could be of any help in the kitchen. She put me to work making the gravy. While busying myself with my task, I asked the hostess, as nonchalantly as I could, how she planned on serving everyone. “We’re eating on the roof,” she said.

That inspired one of her kids to show me said roof. We went outside, up another flight of stairs, and a huge open area of flat concrete appeared. The notched walls were high, so no one would ever suspect parties could happen on top of the souvenir shop. Folding chairs lay against the wall, and three silt-encrusted folding tables sat empty in the middle of the space, but far away from and at odd angles to each other. So, you might ask, why wasn’t anyone from the crammed apartment hanging out up there?

Wind. It was so windy. How to prevent everything from blowing away? I shook my head, shut my mouth (It’s taken years, but I’ve gotten pretty good at that), and went back downstairs.

Our hosts made enough food for half the town. Two turkeys−one oven-roasted and one deep fried−and an enormous ham simmered in a big pot of Coca-Cola. No, I can’t explain that. Three kinds of potatoes, green beans, cornbread, and pasta salad. When it was time to eat, we hauled the food to one of the roof tables. The sooty dirt wasn’t cleaned off of any of them. They weren’t repositioned so the guests might feel like they were dining together. No tablecloths or placemats (they’d have blown away). Paper plates and paper towels were weighted down with rocks.

Our host pulled up a stool and put two galvanized tubs on the concrete floor, each holding a turkey. Using an electric knife, he carved them and placed the meat on platters, also set on the floor. Remember, it’s outside. Loose dirt abounds and it’s windy.

It was a precarious thing, holding a flimsy paper plate flapping in the wind while trying to plop food on it, and keep the plastic wrap or foil covering each dish from becoming airborne. In the end, that effort failed, and all that wasn’t secured did eventually sail off into another person’s backyard celebration.

We ate holding our plates down with one hand. When my SO, seated to my right, had finished his meal, he forgot for a moment and let go of his plate. A gust of wind picked it up and flung it at me. I went home with gravy and potato grease spots all over my shirt.

Thanksgiving is the American holiday. We celebrate it in many ways. There is no right way. Although it’s a ton of work, I am looking forward to my more traditional one again. Indoors.

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I Know What Probiotics Are, So What Are Prebiotics?

By Nancy M. Ouhib, MBA, RD/N, LD/N

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Whether we want to acknowledge it or not, our bodies are largely made up of bacteria. Paying attention to our microbial makeup is pretty important. This is not a new concept. In the words of Hippocrates, all disease begins in the gut. Scientists, researchers, and physicians are now paying much more attention to this. The human microbiome is the new buzzword and hopefully we are waking up to the importance of the microbial aspect of our health.

The human microbiome encompasses the bacterial population on the skin, in the mouth, and in the gut. When the gut microbiome or microbial population is out of balance, there is a condition called gut dysbiosis. Dysbiosis is when the beneficial bacteria of the gut have been killed off and more harmful bacteria have been allowed to proliferate in their absence. There is a healthy balance of bacteria in the gut and we always want to help tip the balance in favor of the beneficial microbes because they function in our best interest. There are two substances that can assist us in maintaining a healthy gut microbiome and those are probiotics and prebiotics.

Last month I discussed probiotics, what they are, and how they help to maintain digestive health in our gut. This month I will discuss prebiotics. Simply put, prebiotics are the food that the probiotics (good bacteria) in your intestinal tract need to stay alive and flourish. Prebiotics are non-digestible fiber and sugars. The most commonly known prebiotics are fructooligosaccharides (FOS) and galactooligosaccharides (GOS.) While their technical names seem long and complicated, these fibers, sugars, and starches have a simple job to do and that is to feed the good guys to maintain that healthy gut flora that we need. Probiotics have the ability to ferment and feed off of these prebiotics.

Good sources of pGrainsrebiotics are fresh produce and whole grains. Food sources of these carbohydrates is better than any over the counter supplement and you get all sorts of additional quality nutrition from these foods that you consume. So, steer clear of the supplement aisle and head to the grocery store to pick up the following fresh food choices to feed your healthy gut.

Whole grains such as oats and corn contain non-digestible fiber. Brown rice, whole grain breads, whole wheat pasta, barley, oatmeal, flax, wheat bran, and chia are also good sources of fiber. These should be included in your diet regularly. Nuts are a good source of prebiotic fiber.

Vegetables and fruits also contain that prebiotic benefit that we all need. Asparagus, leeks, artichokes, garlic, carrots, peas, beans, onions, chicory, jicama, broccoli, tomatoes, cauliflower, spinach, kale, and chard are vegetables that have prebiotic fiber. Bananas, blueberries, cherries, apples, pears, oranges, strawberries, cranberries, kiwi, and berries are also good sources.

There is one important point to note in regards to prebiotics. If your gut is not well populated with beneficial bacteria and probiotics, too much of the prebiotics may cause intestinal distress in the form of bloating and gas. Keep in mind that it is probiotics that feed off of, and have the

ability to break down, these fibers and sugars so they must be present. If you have intestinal distress, it may be a sign that you need more probiotic foods in your diet.

So, it should be clear that probiotics and prebiotics exist in your gut in a state of symbiosis. They are present in your intestinal tract to improve the health of your gut microbiome. Purchasing and preparing fresh fruits, vegetables, and whole grains can easily and inexpensively obtain all of this benefit. Happy and healthy shopping.

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