I believe that in another life I must have been Italian and a resident of Tuscany. I say this because, although I try to be as impartial as possible, I love the wines of Tuscany. I was fortunate to spend some time there and was amazed that even in the small-town restaurants where they served their own home-made wines, the wines were excellent, very enjoyable and absolutely perfect to accompany the Tuscan cuisine.
There is another side of the coin. If the home-made wines were so good, the Tuscan commercial wines must be something special. They are. While Tuscany is mainly known for its chianti, a name that may be used by any wine from the district that is mostly sangiovese, there are producers there whose wines rise above the ordinary and express the true Italian style of fine wine making. I recently sampled some of the imported Tuscan wines and was delighted to find that the wines had not changed and were the same gems that I enjoyed while there.
Lagone 2018 Aia Vecchia ($17). This wine has been made to please anyone who loves red wines. It is a blend of the most popular red wine grapes; 60% merlot, 30% cabernet sauvignon, 10% cabernet franc. The question arose, at least in my mind, will all of these grape varieties clash or will they meld into an interesting whole?
The answer is that they did not only meld but they also produced what has to be one of the most interesting and delightful wines on the market today. Each of the constituents adds its own special flavor and aroma to the blend. I believe that it is safe to reiterate that everything that one seeks in a red wine is right here, clearly presented and probably the most interesting wine I have tasted in a while and all at a very affordable price.
Selvapiana 2019 Chianti Rufina ($21.99). Being made in the Rufina area of Tuscany, the smallest in size and highest in altitude of the Tuscan grape growing regions and from 95% sangiovese, this wine clearly classifies as a chianti. To further classify this wine, it is a chianti on steroids. The aroma and flavor are, to say the least, powerful. Plum, ripe cherries, wild berries abound with a background hint of fresh spice are easily identifiable with new flavor sensations appearing as the wine sits in the glass. The finish is as powerful as is the wine and may I add here, as unforgettable.
Casanova di Neri 2018 IRRosso Toscana ($22). Let’s be very honest. Just the name Casanova associated with the wine perks the interest. Here the name means “new house.”. This wine too is almost all sangiovese with 5% cabernet sauvignon and 5% petit Verdot blended in to add a bit more interest and balance.
It is in the production of this wine where the vintners moved in a direction that is not often used. The wine is fermented and aged in barrels of different size and of different types of woods thus changing the wine from the expected style to a wine of incredible depth and character. The results of all that work led to a wine that has all of the expected flavors and aromas of plums, cherries, wild berries and a hint of spice and a regal elegance found in very few wines.
As one would expect, with all of that barrel use, the properties of this wine might be muted in a shower of wood flavors. Not so, the wood is there but it is in harmony with the other properties and serves more as an enhancer rather than an overpowering annoyance and if you have ever had an over oaked wine you know what I mean. This wine is very food friendly and will accompany meals that call for a red wine and some that do not.