Category: Dining

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Dietitians View: Bitter is better

When asked about flavor profiles it is rare for folks to respond enthusiastically that they “love bitter.” Bitter is one of the basic tastes that our taste buds identify along with sweet, salty, and sour. An affi nity for bitter is infl uenced by several factors including taste experiences, culture, and environment.

Bitter plays two roles—it can signal toxins and something that is dangerous to consume and it can also serve as a stimulant for the appetite and as an aid in digestion. Bitter foods can protect against illness and contribute to good health.

Vegetables that you’ll fi nd on the bitter list include Arugula, Brussels sprouts, and Kale. Arugula has a peppery, somewhat mustardy flavor that has long been popular with Italians. It has become increasingly popular in the United States.

Most often it is served raw, however, arugula can be sautéed to serve as a cooked vegetable. It is low calorie and a good source of Vitamins A, C, K and folate. It also contains iron and calcium and is a good choice to provide plant-based iron in your diet.

This green is high in glucosinolates which de-toxify the body and fight cancer. It is also high in antioxidants which strengthen the immune system and can prevent damage to the body’s cells.

Brussels sprouts are a member of the cabbage family. They’re now trendy and are often prepared roasted, which brings out a sweeter somewhat nutty flavor. Roasting reduces the sulfurous odor and bitter taste which many people dislike. They are good for you. They are low in calories, provide protein and are high in Vitamins C and K. They also contain Vitamin A, B-vitamins, folate, potassium, and fiber. This vegetable also contains glucosinolates and antioxidants, and can aid in reducing cholesterol.

Kale fans love this popular bitter green. It appears throughout the supermarket from the fresh produce aisle, to deli-counter prepared salads, to the snack aisle as kale chips. Kale is low calorie, contains protein and fiber along with Vitamins A, C, and K. It also contains folate, phosphorus, potassium, and calcium. Kale contains a small amount of good fat—an omega-3 fatty acid.

Kale, however, can interfere with blood thinners due to the amount of Vitamin K it contains. It also can suppress thyroid function in some people.

Although we’ve focused on bitter, I also wanted to share info about a food we typically see at the end of the meal: Chocolate. Chocolate is produced from cocoa beans which are naturally bitter and astringent. The more cocoa solids the chocolate contains, the more bitter and astringent the chocolate flavor with higher antioxidant content. Cocoa beans are rich in plant nutrients called flavonoids.

The amount of cacao beans and flavanols can vary. Bittersweet or dark chocolate contains the most generous amounts from higher cacao content chocolate. Dark chocolate can help lower blood pressure and maintain healthy arteries that are relaxed and flexible, thus increasing blood flow.

This bitter sweet can have a positive effect on heart health, reduce insulin insensitivity and lower the risk of diabetes. Dark chocolate can also increase the feeling of fullness which can reduce cravings for sweet and salty foods.

I’ve just touched on a few bitter choices, remember it’s important to eat a variety of foods and be mindful of all things in moderation.

Take Away: Include bitter foods in your diet; they stimulate appetite and digestion, can protect against illness and are an aid to good health.

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Wine Watch: Don’t judge a wine by its price

By Bennet Bodenstein

You don’t judge a book by its cover, nor do you judge a wine by its price. In over thirty years of writing about wine, I have sampled some monumental stinkers that sold for over $100 and some absolutely wonderful wines that were under $20.

As an example, I once tasted an Edna Valley Vineyards pinot noir that sold for under $15 that could only be described as ethereal, and a cabernet sauvignon with a price tag of $128 that I poured down the drain.

Keeping that in mind, I approach all wines by tasting them before paying attention to the price or the name of the producer. I recently had the pleasure of tasting some South American wines that, in my opinion, are well above the average.

Trivento 2019 Argentinian Reserve Malbec ($10.99). Please do not let this wine’s very affordable price tag scare you off , this is a showcase malbec that radiates all of the flavors and aromas that have made the variety so popular. This big, bold, and solid wine is very dark in color and displays the aromas of strawberry, plum, and red cherries with a hint of spice in the background. Cherries, plums, cinnamon, and coffee are the dominant flavors along with the added complexity provided by a hint of oak. This is truly a regal wine with the charm and bearing of a modern classic. It is ready to drink now or can be set down for as long as five years to soften, mellow, and take on the glow of a great classical wine. This wine will prove why malbec is becoming a favorite among many red wine drinkers.

Frontera Cabernet Sauvignon ($6.99). In the quality for your dollar category, this cabernet sauvignon from the Central Valley of Chile achieves the impossible; it is a very nice wine at an even nicer price. This deep ruby, medium bodied wine presents a clean and open aroma of spice, black currants, vanilla, and soft oak. There are no harsh tannins in this wine so it is ready to be enjoyed right now without any further aging. Another quality point is the finish, which is moderately long and very fruity. While the raised pinky connoisseur might scoff at this wine, my suggestion is “don’t knock it until you have tried it” and when you have tried it you will be very glad you did.

Frontera Cabernet Sauvignon/ Merlot ($6.99). The classical French Bordeaux blend of 85 percent cabernet sauvignon and 15 percent merlot is presented in its Chilean incarnation. This is not an attempt to pass off Chilean wine as a Bordeaux but rather an homage to the blend. The color of this wine is dark, very dark and the aroma reflects plum, cherry, red berries, and chocolate which carry over to the flavor and then on to a delightful finish. I found this wine to be very enjoyable and very easy to drink; however, I do have one complaint. Why can’t there be more wines this good and this affordable in today’s marketplace?

Frontera 2020 Sauvignon Blanc ($12.99). Hey, wait, a sauvignon blanc that sells for more than a cabernet sauvignon? Something here is topsy turvy or very special. It appears that the sauvignon blanc grapes were at a premium in Chile which resulted in a higher cost per bottle. Is it worth it? I must answer with a resounding “yes.” Most sauvignon blanc wines are flimsy little things that smell more of grass than the aroma of fruit. This wine’s full fruit aroma is presented right up front, exhibiting pear, peach, and citrus. These carry over to the flavor and then to the finish. Do not let this one slip past you either; it is, to say it in one word, gigantic.

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Phat Boy Sushi Lounge rolls into Coral Springs

Phat Boy Sushi Lounge recently opened a new location at The Walk on University.  Now you can find their combination of unique creations and Japanese classics much closer to home.

Navigating Phat Boy’s Sushi Lounge menu is like walking down a side street in Tokyo during dinner hours.  You will find a wide selection of Sushi, Yakitori, and Ramen, along with your favorite beverages on the menu.

One of their popular drink creations is the Lychee Martini.  A great gin martini,  flavored with the sweet nectar of Lychee, you will find it hard to just have one.

A traditional appetizer choice, Agedashi Tofu, its lightly fried tofu in a subtle Japanese broth.  A wonderful way to wake up your taste buds.

The chef had a special Sashimi salad on the menu.  It was a generous pile of fresh Tuna and Salmon served on top of a bed of kale, with a citrus sauce bringing it all together.  The texture of kale provides a good contrast with the fish, a surprisingly light starter.

If you want to experience the full Sashimi experience, try their Sashimi platter.  It’s a great assorted combination of Salmon, salmon belly, hamachi, (Pacific yellowtail) hamachi belly, and escolar.  All the fish is extremely fresh.  The salmon egg encased in hamachi belly is a tasty treat, where each bite creates a small pop of buttery flavor in your mouth, coating your taste buds.  You have a choice of pickled or standard wasabi.  The pickled wasabi provides a different flavor profile, which is highly recommended if you haven’t tried it in the past. Ribeye tobanyaki offers your steak lover a tasty Japanese variant.  The ribeye is grilled, sliced, and served in a savory soy sauce with enoki mushrooms, shishito peppers, and tomatoes.  A wonderful blend of umami flavors that go well with a side of rice. Beware, a small percentage of the peppers will be spicy.

Another traditional main course choice is Tonkotsu ramen.  Ramen, an adaptation of a Chinese noodle dish, allows chefs to showcase their imagination, and has become one of the national dishes of Japan.  Phat Boy Sushi Lounge’s ramen noodles are light and fluffy.  The ramen are drowned in a tasty broth with hearty servings of egg, pork, and mushrooms.  It’s great for lunch or dinner.

Phat Boy Sushi also offers a great selection of desserts.  The fried Oreo cookie is a splendid creation that you must try if you love Oreos. Oreo cookies are fried tempura style, and while still warm, combined with refreshing green tea ice cream. It brings memories of summer fair and is a great way to finish your meal.

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Meal kits cater to a cavalcade of culinary cravings

One of the latest, hottest trends in food is the fresh-food meal-kit delivery subscription service. Recipes and pre-measured ingredients for meals that you choose, or can be chosen for you, arrive in insulated boxes and are delivered to your home weekly, so you can make fresh, tasty meals quickly. Business is booming. According to Statista.com, sales of fresh-food meal-kits were $1.5 billion in 2016 and expected to reach $11.6 billion by 2022.

The reasons to subscribe to a service are many. Maybe you don’t have time (or inclination in this time of COVID-19) to plan out menus, grocery shop, and then cook. Or takeout isn’t the taste sensation it used to be. Perhaps cooking prowess has not been your strong suit and you want to learn basic cooking skills. Rather than experiment and risk a disappointing outcome, you want to cook something tried and true with no guesswork.

Or it could be you’re craving for new foods and flavors, but you don’t want to purchase lots of new ingredients that may end up going to waste, either because you only need a small amount for an individual recipe, or because you’re positive you’re never going to use the rest of that sweetbread in any recipe for the rest of your life.

How many of us have gone to the grocery store needing just a few items and come home with food we didn’t need or were trying to avoid? A fresh- food meal-kit delivery service might help keep you on track. Or maybe you want to eat differently for other health reasons or because of philosophical or environmental considerations and preferences.

Additionally, a meal-kit delivery service might make a good gift. Treating someone to door-delivered easy-to-make meals might make their week.

 

Choosing the right service will take a little research. If you Google meal delivery services, you’ll find lists and ratings from a wide variety of sources, and dozens of meal services to choose from. Because meal-kit delivery service is a very dynamic segment of the food industry, companies continually innovate and merge/enter/leave the market. So, once you’ve found the service(s) you want to try, it’s best to get the latest information from their website. Read what past and present subscribers have to say about a service. You can check Yelp reviews, as well.

When evaluating what meal-kit delivery service to use, there are several factors you’ll want to consider, such as:

What’s on the menu

Some services cater to specific dietary wants and needs; others with broader menus might offer meals that meet those needs even though it is not their specific focus. You will also want to note how many weekly options there are to choose from and how often they rotate the menu.

For overall variety and popularity, HelloFresh, Freshly, and Blue Apron might be good possibilities.

For meeting health and diet needs, Diet-to-Go and Nutrisystem offer multiple options.

For those wanting to eat organic/vegetarian/vegan/plant-based, Sun Basket, Purple Carrot, and Green Chef offer many options.

For foodies, Martha & Marley Spoon, from Martha Stewart, offers a range of selections.

Cost

Cost per serving is generally in the $10 range (Dinnerly positions itself as costing less than average) but can vary depending on the number of meals and quantity ordered, shipping costs, current promotions, etc. Competition is keen. Many companies have enticing introductory offers, as well as referral programs that entitle subscribers to offer a friend a free trial.

Flexibility

How many meals and servings you are required to order weekly varies by company. Some programs might be better for singles, others for families. You might also want to find out if the service allows for ingredient substitutions, increased portion sizes, etc.

It pays to know the service’s subscription commitment/ suspension/cancellation policy. Also, take note of when you need to order your next week’s meals and what happens if you miss that window, as well as what day of the week/time of day you can expect the delivery. While the meals are packaged for freshness, another consideration is how long after delivery is freshness guaranteed, so if the shipment is delayed or you can’t pick up the delivery as quickly as you planned, you know what to expect.

What you need to have on hand

Check what utensils and ingredients are needed to make the recipes. Regarding ingredients, many meal-kit service recipes require you have just the basics, such as salt, pepper, and oil. For others, you might need to supply items such as eggs and flour.

Time

While most meal delivery service kit meals will take up to 45 minutes to prepare, Freshly delivers pre-cooked meals that only require reheating.

While fresh-food meal-kit delivery services aren’t for everyone, if you are looking to try one, the options are numerous, and look to be quite tasty!

By Ellen Marsden

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RECIPE: Honey-Mustard Salmon

INGREDIENTS

  • 1 Tbsp Butter

  • 1 Tbsp Brown Sugar

  • 2 Tbsp Dijon Mustard

  • 1 Tbsp Honey

  • 1 Tbsp Soy Sauce

  • 1/2 Tbsp Olive Oil

  • Salt and Black Pepper to taste

  • 4 Salmon Fillets (6 OZ EACH)

  • Roasted Parmesan Asparagus

DIRECTIONS

Preheat the oven to 400F. Combine the butter and brown sugar in a
bowl and microwave for 30 seconds, until the butter and sugar have
melted together. Stir in the mustard, honey, and soy sauce.

Heat the oil in an ovenproof skillet over high heat. Season the salmon
with salt and pepper and add to the pan flesh-side down. Cook for 3
to 4 minutes until fully browned and flip. Brush with half of the glaze
and place the pan in the oven until the salmon is firm and flaky (but
before the white fat begins to form on the surface), about 5 minutes.
Remove, brush the salmon with more of the honey mustard.

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The Fish Joint offers great seafood in Coconut Creek

The Fish Joint on the corner of Wiles & Lyons roads in Coconut Creek features an all-star menu of your favorite seafood options. They are open for takeout and have plenty of space for socially-distanced dining and outdoor seating.

Quality, fresh fish is the key to any great seafood place. The Fish Joint is no exception. Walking up to the counter, you’ll find fresh catches from local fishermen on display.

The special of the day was the lobster roll. They offer both hot and cold options. I had the hot option, which was a classic roll filled to the brim with delicious lobster meat. The owner, Brian, said they use the highest grade lobster meat for their rolls, and these have been a popular item.

On the menu is another of my favorites, conch fritters. I fell in love with queen conch meat when I was in Turks and Caicos. Queen conch, which used to be found in high quantities in the Florida Keys until the 70s, are often sourced from the Bahamas and Turks and Caicos. The Fish Joint orders large quantities when they are in season, and the fritters provide a delightful crunch.

The seafood platter I ordered consisting of mahi-mahi, diver scallops, and shrimp was delicious and cooked to perfection. The locally sourced mahi-mahi was tender and not dry. The blackened shrimp and scallops had the perfect amount of spices, so as not to overpower the delicate flavors.

All the food came in takeout boxes, because of the new normal. The box is specially designed to allow for steam to escape and minimize humidity and condensation for the trip home. It made it easy to take the leftovers home, with all the food staying fresh until reheated the next day. It’s good to see The Fish Joint taking the extra effort to ensure a great experience for takeout customers.

The menu also contained other items like the crab boil and fish tacos, and for landlubbers, a great burger and grilled cheese. So if you are looking for incredible, local seafood at reasonable prices, check out The Fish Joint, you won’t be disappointed.

 

By Curiously Hungry

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Los Tacos

Sometimes what is meant as a compliment sounds like anything but. So that there is no confusion, what I am about to say is offered as high praise, given with much respect and admiration not only for this restaurant but also, and perhaps more importantly, to the Mexican-American population, to Mexicans around the world who bring a taste of their homeland to the faraway places they travel, and to the residents of Mexico, a land steeped in history, culture, tradition, and fabulous food creations.

And so I say lovingly, that to call Mexican cuisine, however, prepared, “gourmet” is almost an insult to Mexicans because the very essence of Mexican cooking speaks to hominess, family, friends, sharing, and joy. Gourmet sounds like an affectation. Gourmet sounds highfalutin. Gourmet sounds like a separation of the haves from the have-nots. And, dear friends, Mexican food is the reverse of that. It is the embracing of different tastes, different spices, and herbs, and meats, fowl, and fish made to be enjoyed — not diagnosed. It is meant to be experienced holistically and not separated from the environment, the people at the dining table, or the time of year, day of the week, or occasion.

Los Tacos by Chef Omar ought to be called gourmet without any of the negative connotations attached. The food is quite simply fantastic and quite simply — typically Mexican, in the truest sense.

South Florida has an abundance of fast-food Mexican places, mostly franchises, and I really enjoy them. Though the restaurant names are different, the menus vary very little, and I actually thought that what I was served was the extent of Mexican food. Wow! I was so wrong.

Also, Coral Springs is rapidly becoming a mecca for inter-national foods. Indian, Peruvian, Chinese, Japanese, Italian, American, and now Mexican restaurants dot the commercial strips. It’s great for us, great for the locals and visitors, great for families, and great for me, as I get to sample foods from around the world and I barely have to leave home.

Los Tacos by Chef Omar is a mini-chain – I think Chef Omar now has three. I’m betting he can’t open them fast enough, as his eating public is likely demanding them.

So, why am I so gaga over such a simple formula? It’s how Omar perfected the items and balanced the spices and kept the decor simple but inviting. It is also how he staffs his eateries. On our review night, Vanessa served us. She is fluent in English/Spanish and fluent in each and every item’s ingredients and the expected results of the blends, such as smooth on the palate but warm in the tummy, or hot on the tongue but quickly dissipating to sweet. For the sake of fairness, I must reveal that Vanessa is not Mexican. She is Puerto Rican. I tell you this so you will know that food servers come in all sizes, shapes, and backgrounds. It is up to each one to master the art of serving. Vanessa has succeeded.

I am not going to spend much time discussing the particular dishes, although Omar spends much time preparing them and fine-tuning them. My reasoning is simple: Mexican cooking revolves around using a few ingredients per item and balancing them to achieve the desired result. I don’t enjoy writing about the use of chili peppers offset with a sweet spice or hot sauces balanced with avocado; I’m gambling that you agree. I am gambling that, like me, you want to know if this place is worth going to. It most assuredly is.

What I am hoping you want to answer is this: Is Los Tacos by Chef Omar a place I and my family will enjoy? Yes. Is Los Tacos by Chef Omar a place where the clientele is seeking a fun evening in addition to great food? Yes. Is it bright, clean, and festive? Yes, yes, yes.

Finally, the one thing we all want to be comfortable knowing is that the food is fresh. Omar uses as many locally grown ingredients as are available. He shops daily to assure freshness. His meats are selected for their tenderness, color, complexity, and use (no sense in using breast meat chicken if the recipe calls for wings). Olé!

10299 Royal Palm Boulevard, Coral Springs

754-229-8940

 

by Charles Marcanetti

March 2016

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Little Havana

As a lifelong South Floridian who grew up in Miami, I find that often one Cuban restaurant’s menu is pretty much the same as the next Cuban restaurant’s menu. Mainstays at most include camarones al ajillo (shrimp in garlic sauce), ropa vieja (shredded beef), chicharrón de pollo (chicken chunks marinated in mojo and fried), churrasco (steak), lechón asadá (roast pork), and vaca frita (fried beef). All are delicious – that’s why they are classics – but I must admit it is refreshing to find a new take on an old favorite.

At Little Havana Bar & Grill in Coral Springs, those dishes exist, but owner Jorge Alvarez also has more inventive dishes – often influenced by other Latin cultures. That is what my friends and I discovered while dining there on a recent Friday night.

Dinner / Cena

We started with drinks and piquillo, Spanish tapas that are not always on the menu. A tasty marriage of a roasted red pepper stuffed with bacalao (cod), the appetizer sat in a rich sauce that tasted like lobster bisque. We also had mariquitas, fried plantain chips that were perfectly tender in the center and crispy on the edges. It came with a mojo sauce, which we drizzled on top.

“They are delish,” declared Vida Handelsman of Coral Springs, who was also dining that night with her family. The mariquitas are her preferred way to start a meal at Little Havana. She said she prefers Alvarez’s place to the other Latin restaurants in the neighborhood that serve Cuban food. “They don’t specialize in Cuban as they do here. The Latin flair here is so authentic, I feel like I’m on vacation.” Her husband, Kenny, who works in Hialeah, said the food at Little Havana is as faithful to the original cuisine as any of his regular Cuban lunch spots.

Alvarez, a 14-year resident of Parkland, grew up in the restaurant business. Twenty-seven years ago, his parents opened Little Havana restaurant in North Miami, followed by another one in Deerfield Beach four years later. In May of this year, Alvarez and his wife, Michelle, opened the newest Little Havana on the corner of Coral Ridge Drive and Holmberg Road. Open seven days a week, from 11:30 am to 10 pm, the community welcomed it with open arms, and the restaurant is packed daily.

One of the more unusual dishes is lechón tamarindo, pork topped with a sweet and slightly sour sauce made from sweet red peppers and tamarind fruit. On its own, the tropical tamarind can be so tart it is almost inedible unless cooked or rolled in sugar. At Little Havana, the popularity of this dish hatched pollo tamarindo, the chicken version that my dining companion, Rachel, described as “tender with a fantastic sauce.”

For Rachel, the farther a culinary concoction strays from the beaten path, the bigger the smile on her face. She often finds chicken uninspiring, but not this time. “I love finding authentic cuisine cooked in a way I have never tried before,” she said. “That was the dish on the menu that spoke to me.”

Perhaps because they represent comfort food, I chose the hearty chicken soup and the tender Little Havana steak, pounded thin, then grilled and served with chimichurri sauce. My friend, Sara, chose the Relleno, a piece of haddock stuffed with tender bites of shrimp and mingled with a creamy seafood sauce. It didn’t disappoint (her, or any of us.)

There are a couple of choices on Little Havana’s parrillada (grilled) menu, both intended for two people – or in our case, it was enough for three. The first one has chicken, beef, and pork smothered in onions and chorizo (Spanish sausage). The second option has roast pork, lamb shank, ropa vieja (which got its name because the shredded meat in this classic dish resembles “old rags”), grilled chicken steak, and Little Havana steak. Bring your appetite and invite your meat-loving friends if you plan to order this. All of the meats were perfectly grilled, moist, and hearty.

For health-conscious diners, who think they need to limit Cuban food to an occasional calorie splurge, Little Havana’s manager Jorge Fuentes has you covered. He suggests salmon (not on the menu but always available), grilled snapper filet, or Pescado Diana, haddock baked with tomato, onion, garlic, and capers, then toasted under a broiler. Vegetables and salads can be substituted as a side instead of the standard rice and beans.

Drinks / Bebidas

Little Havana serves wine and beer, but Alvarez says the most popular drink is the mojito (which also comes in pineapple, mango, and guava flavors). It is strong and refreshing, but my favorite was the robust sangria… flavorful and sweet. There is also a mojito martini.

Happy hour is from 4-7 pm every day, which means you can celebrate the end of the day with $6 mojitos and sangria, and $4 beers. Furthermore, you don’t have to sit at the bar to enjoy these specials – happy hour includes the whole restaurant. Monday’s happy hour is actually a “happy day,” when drink specials are available all day long. Two favorites come out twice a week: paella is served all day on Fridays and arroz con pollo is available all day on Tuesdays.

There is some form of live music Thursday through Sunday from 6-10 pm. A singer crooned Spanish language tunes to a packed house on Friday night when we dined. Alvarez said this is a typical Friday night crowd including large parties, families, and couples.

Dessert / Postre

Save room for dessert… we tried three, proclaiming our favorites to be the creamy flan and crema catalana flambé, the Spanish version of crème brulee. Aside from the name, catalana flambé is very close in taste, texture, and appearance to its French cousin. Flame-kissed, the sugar fused on top and cracked under my fork. Once in my mouth, those crunchy bits wedged themselves in the crevices of my delighted molars. The tres leches cake was moist, dense, and very sweet. Of course, if you have a sweet tooth like me, I encourage you to be the judge. So take your pick, or better yet, try them all.

 

by Linda Brockman

November 2018

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Kosta’s Greek Eatery

It starts with the menu, which proudly announces its philosophy, “Where Everyone Is Welcome.” Further down we learn that there is a private room for “Big Fat Greek Weddings”.

Of course, even before the menus arrive one might hear the crashing of dishes as Kosta, the owner and chef at Kosta’s Greek Eatery (5024 N. Federal Highway, Lighthouse Point, 954-571-3842), smashes plates against the stone-like tile floor signaling a mighty greeting and a wish for good health for arriving guests (customers). Then the wait-personnel, with proud and happy grins, usher you to your seats; large tables, anticipating large meals.

No one, absolutely no one, is ever disappointed. This truly Greek eatery is a wonderful family restaurant serving truly authentic Greek foods in an environment reminiscent of Greek eateries throughout the Greek Isles. The food is marvelous, the atmosphere is light and cordial and the waitstaff is highly professional and fully knowledgeable of each item on this wonderfully balanced menu. Actually, all the fancy words are not sufficient to describe the one critical element so essential for such restaurants – is it fun?

The answer is an emphatic, “yes!” Kosta’s Greek Eatery is fun, and the food is delicious and the service is exemplary.

Kosta is a big, strapping man who consumes an entire pitcher (and more) each evening of iced tea to cool him down as he prepares mouth-watering dish after mouthwatering dish. He greets each guest regardless of how busy he is, and he still finds the extra seconds to smash his plates and keep this impromptu party going. His day, however, begins with the food buying. He trusts no one to shop for the evening’s meal and if anyone tries to sell him anything different than he demands he simply passes on to the next item. He demands the best because to him, only the best will do for his precious customers. It is evident in the quality of the food.

As usual, we ordered much too much, but that’s the advantage of being a food critic. In addition to the Three Dip Platter ($12.95) Tzatziki, Humus and Eggplant Salad served with grilled pita, we had three other appetizers.

Kosta’s Meatball Appetizer ($9.50) is clearly NOT Italian. It is sweet and is actually made leaving the chopped meat with larger pieces of the meat (less chopped) adding fantastic texture to the meatball. They were perfectly spiced making for a light, never over-bearing taste and pressed into shape without making them as hard as a baseball, so that even the chewing was enjoyable.

Then, the quintessential Greek Appetizer: Homemade Dolmades ($7.50). These Grape Leaves Stuffed with Ground Beef and White Rice, are finished with a Creamy Lemon Dill Sauce and are very light. They will convince anyone who hasn’t yet eaten Greek cuisine to start the experience immediately and to those of us who are old-timers, they “open” the evening with a joyful treat.

We also had Sautéed Calamari ($10.95) as ONLY the Greeks can make. It was served with homemade marinara sauce, wasn’t breaded, remained moist and crunchy to the bite, and stands up to any calamari served in any ethnic restaurant, anywhere.

What would a trip to a Greek Restaurant be without sampling the Greek Salad ($6.50 small and $8.50 large)? At Kosta’s, it consists of lettuce, tomato, red onion, olives, and dolmades topped with Feta cheese and tossed in a very special vinaigrette.

Our main course was initiated by a dish of Loukaniko Sausages ($13.95), which are Greek country sausages from a small village in Greece called Kastoria. These great sausages were crisp on the outside and moist and tender on the inside…just the way sausages should be.

Then came another Greek staple; Spinach Pie with Feta Cheese ($14.95). Kosta makes these fantastic creations with Greek Fillo Dough, Spinach and Feta Cheese in a protected recipe of secret seasonings. Don’t question the secret; eat and enjoy a wonderful taste sensation.

Kosta’s “House Special” Grilled Steak Portobello Mushrooms and Onion ($20.95) is a true South Florida classic. It is made with a Giant Skirt Steak grilled to perfection and smothered (really smothered) with Grilled Portobello Mushrooms and Onions. We added three Jumbo (really Jumbo) shrimp making the dish add up to $29.95 and worth every drachma.

What would any visit to a Greek restaurant be without savoring Greek Lamb Chops ($27.95)? Kosta’s is renowned throughout this area for preparing the best lamb chops in Florida. I won’t argue. They are tender, juicy, and sweet and had just the right amount of “pepperiness” (I made up the word), to bring out the true texture of this rather difficult to cook (correctly) specialty. I recommend it to you—let me know your opinion.

Our last main course was the Jumbo Shrimp Mykonos ($27.95). It is a dish consisting of Jumbo Grilled Shrimp, topped with Fresh Tomato, Basil, and Garlic Sauce with melted Feta Cheese served over a bed of the most delicious Greek rice you’ll ever have.

All these main dishes are served with side dishes and each side dish is so good you’ll want to make the side dish another main dish…oh, the pressure we must endure!

And, my dear friends, as you might expect, we finished our evening with the sweetest, moistest, flakiest, most delicious Baklava ($4.00) anyone could imagine. Leave room for it or it’ll be your loss.

Psst! Try the Greek wine Kleoni, it will add a great touch to a fun-filled evening. Hoopa!

Kosta’s

5024 N. Federal Highway, Lighthouse Point,

954-571-3842

Hours of Business:

11:30 p.m.-2p.m. Tuesday-Friday

5 p.m.-9:30 p.m. Sunday-Thursday

5 p.m.-10 p.m. Friday-Saturday

 

By Charles Marcanetti

October 2008

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Jet Runway Café

From 1920 to 1933, America was an alcohol-free country (yeah, sure). Still, America’s thirst for inebriants flourished and hidden clubs grew up everywhere, the entering into which was prefaced by whispering a password. And so, the Speakeasy was born. After America came to its partying senses, some enterprising restaurateurs began hiding themselves in semi-secret locations ensuring that the mystery and uniqueness of their eateries were heightened.

Some 76 years later came the birth of Jet Runway Café at Fort Lauderdale Executive Airport. Hidden among hangars, parked airplanes, and helicopters, it continues, now seven years later, enchanting its patrons with astounding fare and remarkable views of the landings and takeoffs of planes old and new, and the comings and goings of support personnel and vehicles.

Not only is this a superlative breakfast and lunch experience, Jet Runway Café can, and frequently does, cater on-site parties up to 150 people and larger events on-site and off-site, indoors and outdoors literally touching the runways.

 

OMG. The same chefs and sous-chefs as watch over the day-to-day diners create the many dishes offered for the gatherings. And yes, there seems to be no shortage of pilots and passengers flying in for a meal … and take-out.

One of the clues we food critics use in determining if a restaurant is “solid” is the staff turnover. At Jet Runway Café the shortest time employee is 4½ years and our server for our luncheon, Luanda, has been there six years. She loves what she does and where she does it. And her colleagues and, most of all, her customers can tell from her first smile to her modest approach to delivering the check that this is her turf. Of course, Luanda and any and all the other servers would have a hard time existing at one location if the food wasn’t top-notch. It is. And now, let’s check out some of the offerings.

We started off with Margarita Flatbread consisting of grape tomatoes, mozzarella, basil pesto, and balsamic glaze, and Pulled Pork Flatbread made with mojo pork, shredded mozzarella, and cilantro chimichurri. I would love to get the recipe because each was light but full-flavored and I could have made a meal of it. But I’m glad I didn’t because we next savored two remarkable salads: Silver Lining Salad made with mixed greens, grilled chicken, candied pecans, sundried cranberries, mandarin oranges, grape tomatoes, and gorgonzola drizzled with balsamic vinaigrette; and, my favorite salad, the Crispy Goat Cheese Salad created by melding blackened shrimp, baby spinach, candied pecans, strawberries, blueberries, and a balsamic vinaigrette. It’s like having dessert for lunch.

Jet Runway Café offers a different soup daily, so check it out on the day(s) you’re going. We went on a Monday, French Onion Soup day. The soup was just as it was supposed to be and for French Onion Soup that is saying a lot, as too often the only thing French about it is the name. Here it was French, French Onion Soup and delicious. Tomato Bisque is on the menu every day. So just to be polite (LOL) I sampled it. I loved it.

They serve half-pound burgers with lots of accoutrements and in many different styles. I had none, but judging from the aromas and the look on the faces of the patrons eating them I can say you will likely be very impressed. But why would I not have a burger for lunch? Simple, because I saw what the main courses were and I opted for the gourmet, as opposed to the gourmand.

Steak Chimichurri was fabulous, made as close to perfection as I have experienced in a long time and the skirt steak is served with grilled onions, black beans, yellow rice, and roasted vegetables. I also had a giant portion of the Honey Lime Salmon made with Atlantic salmon with a citrus glaze and served with whipped garlic potatoes and mixed vegetables.

We also could not resist the Mahi-Mahi sandwich served with guacamole, lettuce, tomato, pickle, and chipotle mayo served on toasted brioche, plus the Crab Cake sandwich made from lump crab and cilantro-lime aioli and served with guacamole, lettuce, tomato, and pickle on a toasted brioche bun, and finally the Cuban sandwich made with roasted pulled pork, Virginia ham, Swiss cheese, kosher pickle, and mustard served on a soft white hoagie. None of these creations is typical fare but they are perfect for lunch and later on in the day when you take lots and lots of the items home.

Even if you don’t believe me I tell you truly that we also had every one of their side dishes — the Mac-N-Cheese, Sweet Potato Fries, Seasoned Fries, and Sweet Plantains — and each was mouthwatering. For dessert, we had the Bag of Cookies and the Chocolate Cake and I will not have a craving for sweets for years to come. Lastly, for the food let me say that Jet Runway Café serves the best sweet raspberry iced tea I have ever had.

My experience at this totally enjoyable eatery has assured them of my becoming a regular customer and a person who proudly offers his word of mouth to all who would hear.

5540 NW 21st Terrace Fort Lauderdale

954-958-9900 (restaurant)

954-990-1939 (catering)

info@jetrunwaycafe.com

 

By Charles Marcanetti

February 2016

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HASHI Sushi & Thai

Sometimes I review the upscale, high-priced gourmet eateries in this area, and sometimes I review the “eat here every day” delicious, comfortable, and informal eateries.

This month it is the latter, and I’ve been a customer of this particular restaurant for several years, ever since the new owners took over.

 

Hashi Sushi and Thai, located a few doors down from Walgreens in the Borders Strip Mall in the Northeast quadrant of 441 and Glades Road (9845 Glades Road, Boca Raton, Fla., 561-477-9989), is simply a wonderful Sushi/Thai/Asian restaurant with fresh fish, tender meats, great wheat and rice noodles, sweet hot sake, and low prices. It is decorated in the mellow Asian motif which, as always, is unpretentious, clean, and inviting. (Please see the great little designs with the straw wrappers, continually made by the owner’s mom.)

If you’re like me you probably don’t relish the thought of going into a small, mom-and-pop restaurant without someone recommending it. After all, some of those places are disgusting, unsuited to serve anything to anyone at any time. So, at least let me give you the all-clear on this quaint and special eatery. Years ago, I started with a small, fried rice dish to check them out. Next, I moved up to two small pieces of salmon sushi. (If it wasn’t fresh I’d have smelled it and run away.) Finally, I brought the final arbiter of my safety in food consumption: my wife, Maria.

I’m sure the modest and humble owners–Sakchan Makhamphan, who is also the head chef, and his delightful and attentive wife, Araya Naphakorn, who runs the “front”–would love you to come in for a delicious dinner (and they are delicious) still, I’d guess that their lunch business is their real money time. But they’re never too busy to make you feel special and there’s always quick service.

I have probably eaten everything on the large menu at least once and so, though there isn’t enough room to comment on all, let me tell you that whatever you order will be prepared and presented just the way you like it.

Here’s a sampling: The Tuna Tataki (thin slices of seared tuna, served with ponzu sauce) and the Sunomono (conch, octopus, crab, and shrimp with cucumbers in ponzu sauce) are my favorite appetizers. The tuna is warm and the sunomono is cool so your every desire can be accommodated.

I’m not a big sushi-roll eater, as I prefer to have one fish at a time. But, I love salmon skin rolls and occasionally indulge in Hashi Sushi’s version of a Rainbow KC Roll where the chef chooses the best combination of salmon and tuna mixed with Hamachi, asparagus, scallions, and roe and then wraps it all in a very thinly sliced cucumber. It’s six pieces and large enough to be an entire appetizer, though, for me it is a mere morsel.

Edamame, steamed soybeans, lightly salted, and Shumai, steamed or fried shrimp dumplings, along with Gyoza, steamed or fried pork dumplings, are wonderful openers, as well. I also can’t resist the soft-shelled crab, which is lightly fried and served with ponzu sauce. I’ve said it before about other excellent sushi restaurants, and I’ll add Hashi Sushi to the list, that if you’re cold, or feel a cold coming on, order the Seafood Udon Noodle Soup–ask for it very hot and eat it very hot. By the end of the feast, you will feel much better — sort of like “Japanese chicken soup.” Or, order it when you feel just fine because it is really a satisfying dish.

Fresh, cool, and invigorating salads, prepared in a truly Asian way are abundant; here’s just a few that I have eaten over the years: Oriental Chicken Salad, Oriental Shrimp Salad, Seared Sesame Tuna Salad, Sashimi Salad, and Wakame (seaweed salad).

All the hot entrees are served with miso soup or salad, and rice. I could list them at this juncture but that would be merely copying their menu. Let it suffice to say that the hot entrees are every bit as good as all of the food at Hashi Sushi and Thai. This eatery is not only worth visiting whenever you’re at the Borders’ mall or whenever you’re going to or coming from the Shadowood Movie Theater — it is worth a trip just for lunch or dinner.

Hashi Sushi and Thai

9845 Glades Road, Boca Raton, Fla

561-477-9989

 

By Charles Marcanetti

[June 2010]

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Japango

There are three Asian/sushi restaurants that I eat in regularly. They actually triangulate our readership area and depending on where I am when the desire strikes, that’s where I go. This month, having just realized that it’s been years that I am a customer and I never reviewed them, I am singing the praises of Japango, located north of Hillsboro on the west side of 441. It’s been around for a long time, which should indicate how good it is. It is also sexy in its décor and has an exceptionally wide variety of styles and choices of fish, poultry, and meat specialties, cooked, lightly cooked, and raw.

Most “sushi” eateries are simple, small, and aimed at serving fresh fish in an old country-style diner-like atmosphere. For me, as in Japan, that’s the way it should be. Except at Japango they tweaked the philosophy just a bit. It is a “real” restaurant. It is smartly laid out in soft lighting, mellow colors, and encourages a slower dining experience, one where we sit and savor our dishes. Of course, when you try to guide your clientele toward a relaxed atmosphere you run the risk of having poor service. Not at Japango. They have the service timed to coordinate with each table’s rate of eating; a perfectly timed dining choreography.

None of this would mean a thing if the food was lousy. Japango’s fish is fresh, cut to the exact size called for (sashimi is cut thinner than nigiri and nigiri is the better name for what most of us call “sushi”).

Let me explain – technically any fish served with vinegared rice is sushi, but that type of sushi served in rectangular slices – or round – is nigiri. I recommend, without authority, an article at allaboutsushiguide. com/types-of-sushi.html for those of you who are really curious.

 

Another wonderful treat at Japango is that they have an extensive menu. Some sushi restaurants add some meat and poultry dishes to satisfy the few remaining people who scrunch up their faces at the sound of sushi. At Japango, you’ll find a full Asian/Thai menu and a fairly wide array of Vegan dishes. So, even if your newly converted vegetarian college student son, daughter, or grandchild waxes endlessly about the dangers of this food or that food, even they will not go hungry (don’t send me letters complaining about my insensitivity – I was that person).

While I have sampled much of the menu I have not had each and every item. But, I have had some of each: Japanese, Thai, Sushi, Wok, raw, cooked, and even vegetarian. I have never been disappointed. I feel confident that you will be happy when you visit and return time after time.

However, I feel compelled to tell you about some of my favorites.

 

The Ultimate Sea Bass Roll – made with shrimp, mango, masago, scallion, asparagus, and enclosed in soy wrap with avocado and grilled miso seabass on top with miso butter, eel sauce, red and green tobiko – is outstanding. The Japango Lobster Bomb – made with tempura lobster, scallions, asparagus, ginger, fish eggs, rolled in seaweed and topped with jumbo prawn with spicy mayo, eel sauce, and further accompanied by tempura lobster in a shell with spicy wasabi – is equally good.

Sometimes, when I am feasting on raw fish I miss the “chewing” sensation so I order a Soft Shell Eel Roll – made with soft shell crab, volcano shrimp, and ginger wrapped in soy paper topped with avocado, eel, and eel sauce. The softshell crab allows me to crunch a little and my palate is sated.

If you enjoy more than miso soup (I love miso soup) you must try the Shrimp and Lobster Wonton Soup – made with homemade shrimp and lobster gyoza in chicken stock, topped with shredded bok choy. It is wonderful.

Are you still looking for warm, cooked food? OK. The Black Bean Basil Sea Bass – made with red pepper, green pepper, onion, jalapeno chili with black bean basil sauce, or the Garlic Lobster – served with two lobster tails, snow peas, mushroom, carrots, baby corn, celery sautéed with garlic sauce, and accompanied with jasmine rice – will each knock your socks off.

They serve only premium hot sake and, as usual, I cannot get enough. I never drive when I visit Japango.

I conclude by telling you that Japango is a sushi and Asian restaurant, suitable for a fine dining experience but lending itself, as well, to a lighter lunch or evening dinner. Bring your guests, your family, and friends. It’s fun, fine dining in a well-lighted, happy environment.

By Charles Marcanetti

[February 2017]

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