Don’t look now, but winter is approaching. It may not seem that way here in South Florida right now, but there is nothing stopping it and winter will be here whether we want it or not. Fortunately or unfortunately, depending on your point of view, the only way we know that winter has arrived here is by the plethora of out-of-state license plates on the automobiles of the “snowbirds,” the change in the color of women’s shoes from white to black or brown, and the desire to replace the white wines of summer with red.
While the red wines are usually more costly than the white wines, as it is said, “You get what you pay for.” My advice is to stock up on red wines now before the winter price increases or any other maladies that may befall Northern California.
Daou Family 2019 Pessimist ($30). A strange name but not a strange wine. The back label explains that it is a wine “that never disappoints.” That motto says a great deal, but does its name meet its character and quality? As a wine columnist, being a perpetual pessimist goes with the job, but this wine made that job easy: It is excellent. This wine can easily change a hard-core pessimist into a pussycat optimist.
At the first sip, you know that you are in for something very interesting, and very enjoyable. Everything about this wine is concentrated and very obvious. This dark ruby red, full-bodied wine displays the traditional cabernet aromas of cassis, plum, and oak with a hint of clove. Black cherry and cassis, in glorious amounts, firmly reside in the flavor along with a velvety mouthfeel, a sure sign of a better cab — and that is exactly what this wine is, a better cab and a fine starting place if you are a cabernet sauvignon newcomer.
Daou Family 2018 Bodyguard ($50). Since I grew up in Brooklyn, New York, to me a bodyguard is a big, burly guy with a broken nose and cauliflower ears who makes offers that “it’s best not to refuse.” Therefore, a wine so named definitely intrigued me. I will start by saying that no threats, bullying, or strong-arm tactics are needed for this wine, as it will capture and hold you with the first sip.
This wine is a blend of often not-seen varieties: 59% petite verdot and 41% petite sirah. The aroma is a fruit basket alive with the scents of blackberry, raspberry, pomegranate, chocolate, licorice, and cocoa. These fruit aromas and even more carry over to the flavor and then explode in the finish. Words cannot do justice to this wine, and I believe that it is one of the most interesting red wines that I have sampled in a long time. And remember, this wine was made by “the family.”
Hamel Family 2018 Isthmus ($90). The Hamel family, with all of their red wine experience, do full justice to the cabernet sauvignon grapes and from them have produced a very fine and, if I may, an exceptional example of the variety. The wine is full-bodied with a deep, almost violet color. This very dark wine is a true child of California, stressing fruit flavors over the usually austere and stiff character of the grape variety.
The aroma showcases black fruits, cedar spice, and vanilla. These carry over to the flavor, where they mingle with a cherry and plum element and the very discernable flavors of chocolate mint. This wine has a wonderful softness about it and reflects many of the flavors and aromas that are found only in well-aged wines. This is a wine that I believe rides the fine line between a California cabernet sauvignon and a French Bordeaux, and it is a pleasure to drink.
